Gassy Gary

Still my same bike but my first thread is so old and it's come quite a ways since I first put it together, so I wanted to start over with a clean fresh new thread.

Here's my current build, based on a 1997 Gary Fisher Mamba.

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Here's how she used to look:
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And here's what started the change:
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After this happened, one thing led to another, and, well...here she is.

PARTS LIST:

Engine
-66cc China Girl
--No-name billet head
--No-name MZ65 replica
--DIO reed valve
--19mm OKO carburetor (GENUINE, not the all-too-common Chinese knockoffs)
--Windowed piston
--Sick Bike Parts shift kit
--Jaguar CDI (on its way)

Front end
-Monark Type II front fork and headset
-Shimano HB-M475 front disc hub (on its way)
-TRP HY/RD hydromechanic front disc brake w/ 160mm rotor (have it, not mounted yet since my new front hub isn't here yet)
-Sunrace multi-angle quill stem
-Dimension cruiser bar
-Sick Bike Parts throttle
-Dual pull brake handle
-Shimano Tourney shifter (on stem)
-Genuine Honda PA50 grips (thought it would be a neat touch; I've owned 2 Accords, a Civic, and a CR-V, which should tell you where my loyalties lie)

Rear end
-Shimano 7-speed cassette and derailleur (may not be long for this world)
-Shimano center-pull rim brake (same as above)
-Rock Bros cargo rack
-Cloud9 cruiser saddle
-No-name rear mount kickstand

TO DO:

To get it running
-Make cables; the new bars are a lot taller and further out than the factory flat bars, and the NT throttle cable wouldn't fit the OKO. Will be using Jagwire compressionless housing for most everything.
-Lace new hub into front wheel...debating whether to attempt it myself or just pay my local bike shop.
-Wire up CDI

Once it's running
-Lights and horn
--I have a whole setup ready to go on (low-beam and high-beam headlights, taillight with brake light, horn, tach, plus handlebar switches for all of it), but I'm trying to figure out how to keep it charged. Ordered a little 12V DC motor to mess around with and see if I can turn it into a usable dynamo, but may just wire everything up as total-loss in the meantime.
-Sturmey Archer rear hub
--The 7-speed isn't really doing it for me; half the gears are useless because the ratios are so close together, and I've been left stranded a number of times after a goofy shift made the chain come off and tie itself in knots (if I was lucky) or just snap a link (if I wasn't). With an IGH, I could have a more usable ratio spread, even if I have fewer gears, and I'd be able to run a stouter chain (and not have to worry about it ever falling off).
--Related to this, the rear rim brake doesn't exactly fill me with confidence either. As long as I'm replacing the hub, I may as well kill two birds with one stone by getting one with some form of hub brake. My frame doesn't have any mounts for a disc brake caliper, but Sturmey makes a 3-speed with a 90mm drum brake (model XL-RD3), which should be more than adequate, based on the research I've been doing.
--I also ordered this really awesome stick shifter.
-New tank, very possibly this one.
 
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It's finally all together again.

Giant shout-out to practicalcyclesuk, who were able to get me all the little fiddly bits I needed for the Sturmey hub. And, surprisingly enough, I got it working. Also sourced a tensioner, and was able to re-use most of the cable stops already on the frame for the new parts.

Right now it's just a one-speeder; I'm still working on fabbing up the shift lever but also got impatient and wanted to ride it, so I stuck the twist shifter in a spot and left it in second gear. The important thing is it's a runner again and everything works.

Next on the list is the electrical setup, but right now I'm perfectly content to just bask in my accomplishment and enjoy it as it is.
 
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View attachment 105459

It's finally all together again.

Giant shout-out to practicalcyclesuk, who were able to get me all the little fiddly bits I needed for the Sturmey hub. And, surprisingly enough, I got it working. Also sourced a tensioner, and was able to re-use most of the cable stops already on the frame for the new parts.

Right now it's just a one-speeder; I'm still working on fabbing up the shift lever but also got impatient and wanted to ride it, so I stuck the twist shifter in a spot and left it in second gear. The important thing is it's a runner again and everything works.

Next on the list is the electrical setup, but right now I'm perfectly content to just bask in my accomplishment and enjoy it as it is.
What was your drive ratios again? And what is the hub ratios?
 
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If I'm remembering correctly the sprockets that come standard with a Standard SBP 2 stroke kit are 10, 17, 36, 48. I'm going to assume you have a 10t sprocket on your engine. So you're looking at the following reductions and speeds at 6000 rpm on 26" wheels

1st_____19.39:1_____25.3 mph

2nd____12.24:1_____37.9 mph

3rd______9.18:1_____50.6 mph
 
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If I'm remembering correctly the sprockets that come standard with a Standard SBP 2 stroke kit are 10, 17, 36, 48. I'm going to assume you have a 10t sprocket on your engine. So you're looking at the following reductions and speeds at 6000 rpm.

1st_____16.32:1_____28.4 mph

2nd____12.24:1_____37.9 mph

3rd______9.18:1_____50.6 mph
Sounds just about perfect for my needs. Thanks for that.
 
Oh yeah, quick word of warning to anyone considering a Sturmey hub. The XL-RD3 and RXL-RD3 are in fact NOT THE SAME HUB (ask me how I know). The RXL-RD3 does not use an indicator chain; you need a special little cable ferrule that's rather hard to come by.
 
you need a special little cable ferrule that's rather hard to come by.
I needed a few of those tiny little cable ferrules for some cables of mine that i had to cut to length...They go on the end of my disk brake cables that i cut to length...Got them for free from my local bike shop...are those the type of ferrules that your talking about ???...If they are, they are not hard to come by at all...bike shops have them...DAMIEN
 
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