Usage of RSE billet Rounded Flat CNC Heads with Spark Plug Specs:

[Philandra Chambliss]

These cylinder heads require special spark plugs, they can run the fallowing plugs with specs:

E3.38 Preformance Plugs:

thread pitch: 10mm

Thread reach: .750

(Long plug)

Notes: Needs a crush washer to run this particular plug as its two turns from tight to clear piston.

Part number: NGK 7840

Reference Number Actual Plug Name:

NGK-CR5HSA

thread pitch: 10mm

thread reach: .500

(Short plug)

Notes: This plug is direct correct length but sits further off the piston head/gas chamber.

Further notes: Both products work great, however E3 doesn't need gaping or heat range charts by E3 are non existant.

As for the "true" NGK" temp charts are straight forward the higher the number the colder in off brand OT is "REVERSE."

 

[DAMIEN1307]

As for the "true" NGK" temp charts are straight forward the higher the number the hotter

That is INCORRECT...The higher the number in NGK, the COLDER the heat range...An NGK B6HS is fairly standard for our motors an NGK B7HS is a COLDER plug not hotter...an NGK B5HS is a HOTTER plug...DAMIEN

 

[Philandra Chambliss]

A

That is INCORRECT...The higher the number in NGK, the COLDER the heat range...An NGK B6HS is fairly standard for our motors an NGK B7HS is a COLDER plug not hotter...an NGK B5HS is a HOTTER plug...DAMIEN

Actually its right and wrong i had a talk with a guy about the same thing "you and I have already said" true ngk range is colder with higher numbers off brand hotter goes up with numbers so yes im still right. This is not an b6hs either if you read the posting you would see what im saying.

 

[DAMIEN1307]

Actually its right and wrong i had a talk with a guy about the same thing "you and I have already said" true ngk range is colder with higher numbers off brand hotter goes up with numbers so yes im still right. This is not an b6hs either if you read the posting you would see what im saying.

Spark Plug Basics - NGK Spark Plugs

Get the spark plug basics, from overheating and misfires to ignition timing and knocking.

ngksparkplugs.com

i had a talk with a guy

OK...Fair enough...So a "guy" told you this.

This is what NGKs site up above tells me...And below is a quoted excerpt from NGKs site...I think i will believe what NGK says about their own heat range scale...DAMIEN

The spark plug heat range has no relationship to the electrical energy transferred through the spark plug. The heat range of a spark plug is the range in which the plug works well thermally. The heat rating of each NGK spark plug is indicated by a number; lower numbers indicate a hotter type, higher numbers indicate a colder type.

When i used B6HS, B5HS, and B7HS, i used these plug numbers only as a point of reference...As an example for heat range purposes only.

To prove YOUR point, you only need to show an NGK heat range chart showing your plug in its chart showing other plugs as well, showing that higher numbers show higher heat ranges...That would be all the proof needed.

Heres my chart reference, (From NGK), just to show numericals versus the heat range from hot to cold...It shows that low numbers are the hottest, high numbers are the coldest.

NGK.com: Heat Range Conversion Chart

www.ngk.com

 

[DAMIEN1307]

Philandra Chambliss said:
As for the "true" NGK" temp charts are straight forward the higher the number the hotter

As for the "true" NGK" temp charts are straight forward the higher the number the colder in off brand OT is "REVERSE."

I see that you made the correction in your original posting about the NGK temp charts numericals regarding hot versus cold...Many thanks for that as it could have caused confusion for others here in the forums.

One clarification i would like to make on the rest of your comment though would be, rather than call the other plugs "off brand", it would be more correct to call them "other brands" as most others are, after all, from major plug manufacturers...Not from no name "off branders"...lol...DAMIEN

 

[Philandra Chambliss]

I see that you made the correction in your original posting about the NGK temp charts numericals regarding hot versus cold...Many thanks for that as it could have caused confusion for others here in the forums.

One clarification i would like to make on the rest of your comment though would be, rather than call the other plugs "off brand", it would be more correct to call them "other brands" as most others are, after all, from major plug manufacturers...Not from no name "off branders"...lol...DAMIEN

The way I look at it from a bikes standpoint, plugs dont really matter to some extent, its when you have a car, that matters the most.

Not saying that these are not daily riders its just a loop hold off shoot from Harley evolving from a bicycle.

Those who have custom bikes care more and there are some who buy and can't even tighten a single bolt.

With that can you comment on the base line cnc head its self..

 

[DAMIEN1307]

With that can you comment on the base line cnc head its self..

I will leave that for others here in the forums...My only concern in this thread was the NGK heat chart numericals regarding heat ranges in order to not be confusing to others...i have no desire to obfuscate that issue with issues regarding "base line cnc head" that you are referring to that can be much better addressed by others here in the forums who have personal experience with them whereas i stay with stock configurations...DAMIEN

 

[Wrench]

These cylinder heads require special spark plugs,

A 10mm S/P is not special. It's just a different thread
Spark Plugs come in 14mm, 12mm and 10mm

 

[Wrench]

Thread reach: .750

(Long plug)

Notes: Needs a crush washer to run this particular plug as its two turns from tight to clear piston.

Yes It's very important that the S/P does not hit the piston
It's also very important that no threads extend into the combustion chamber.
If even one thread extends into the combustion chamber it can get a carbon build up on it.
When removing the S/P this carbon build up on the threads will strip the threads in the head.

S/P Indexing copper washers should be used so achieve correct S/P depth in the Head if needed.
Or if one extra Crush washer does the trick than that's OK too.

It's always a good idea to check the S/P depth in any head or before starting a new engine

 

[Wrench]

E3 doesn't need gaping

While the E-3 S/P comes pre gaped from the factory. (All S/P manufactures pre gap their S/P for what the S/P is designed for.)

It is still a good Ide to check the E-3 gap or adjust the E-3 with a small S/P gap tool for your preferred needs.

With an E-3 S/P the spark goes to the closest tab. When that tab wears down the spark goes to the next closest tab.
The E-3 lasts longer at the correct gap without having to check and re gap the plug

heat range charts by E3 are non existant.

E-3 S/P do come in different heat ranges for different engine applications.
They don't show a S/P heat range comparison chart to other S/P manufactures because when you cross reference your S/P to a E-3 S/P
E-3 recommends the correct heat range S/P to match your S/P