Kill switch / grounding zeda 66/80

All4-1

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Ok folks..
I want to post this before bed because I have a few hours I should be able to work on the bike tomorrow-

I have a few final adjustments and I have to wire the cdi and the kill switch. I have seen people saying they ground the engine to the frame but it looks like they have a small mount on the end of the wire to put a bolt through the frame to attach it
My kit ( a zeda 66/80) has a harness setup that would plug in all the wires but I chopped them because where I want my cdi will require me about 2 inches of extention on the wires.

I'm planning on capping the white wire as well

But my silly wondering got me thinking- and just to be safe id like to know for sure I'm doing the right thing.

Someone on here told me I didn't have to drill the hole on the handlebars when mounting the throttle and kill switch. They said I could just unscrew the set screw in the throttle/ kill assembly--- this just now got me thinking that maybe that could have been the ground? Do all engines need to be grounded?

My kit had a snap in harness so I thought there was never even supposed to be a ground but just got to thinking I hope the handlebar throttle assembly with the set screw wasn't just to hold the grips in place but maybe it could have been the ground as well?

Also - since I'm extending the wires 2 inches should I solder the 2 inches on the cdi side and then solder to the engine- then heat shrink individual wires before heat shrinking the whole bundle- if you get what I mean..

But the main question is where should I splice the killswitch into it?

Should I put the killswitch and the 2 extended wires together in the same spot or should I hook the cdi to the kill switch and then run the extension to the engine?

To best try to explain what I'm talking about should I extend the wire and put the kill, the cdi, and the engine wires all in one spot or should I hook the engine to cdi and then strip another area of the cdi/ engine wires away from where I solder them together?

Also do I need to ground at all? It didn't seem to habe provision for a ground unless it was in the handlebar throttle and kill assembly?

Probably silly questions- and I probably won't have time to get back until atleast 12 noon - I'm just trying to learn the best and fastest that I can

Hoping to ride it this weekend so please Grace me with your infinite knowledge

Thanks guys for everything so far and I really appreciate it. I wouldn't be asking so many questions if I wasn't trying to learn a whole lot about this hobby while working 12 to 18 hours a day this time of year, you all are lifesavers.
 
You don't really need the kill switch at all, if you're at home and want to kill the motor, just stop, it'll quit. If you want to continue riding, pull in the clutch. Half the electrical issues with these kits is the kill switch.

Black to black, blue to blue, simple enough. Heat shrink each connection and then the bundle. Be careful soldering, if you have the heat shrink tubing too close to your connection it will shrink and not move.
 
Thank you sir. I just got back from about a 5 mile maiden voyage. Everything seems good other than the chain not even being peened - I saw it when I was installing the chain and went thru it with a punch trying to make it a bit sturdier to no avail.. So I'll have to get some chain hopefully tomorrow.
These bikes run 40 chain if my eyes don't decieve, isn't it 40?
 
Thank you sir. I just got back from about a 5 mile maiden voyage. Everything seems good other than the chain not even being peened - I saw it when I was installing the chain and went thru it with a punch trying to make it a bit sturdier to no avail.. So I'll have to get some chain hopefully tomorrow.
These bikes run 40 chain if my eyes don't decieve, isn't it 40?
41 is better, same as 40 but a little more narrow. Maybe it won't bang on the frame of the bike. Kit supplied chains are 415.
 
41 is better, same as 40 but a little more narrow. Maybe it won't bang on the frame of the bike. Kit supplied chains are 415.
That's exactly what I got bro glad to hear I got the right one lol
I figured it would do better being a little thinner to cut the chatter on this thin ass sprocket
 
Kill switch does just that on these cheap magnetos. The switch acts as a dead short and the coils over time give in to the switches abuse lol! Most people will come to a stop! Pull the choke and let your motor kill it's self. Solves the issues the magnetos have dying. In 3 years of choking my bikes I have had zero mag issues! Using the kill switch! Would go through mags like crazy!
 
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