Smolik minarelli hybrid motorized bicycle kit.

A very rough rough out on the jog pipe. Far as I can go until the engine is in the frame. Will have move the chamber in a good bit but its not a difficult mod. Removing the brackets from the thin chamber seemed more of a challenge.
 

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A very rough rough out on the jog pipe. Far as I can go until the engine is in the frame. Will have move the chamber in a good bit but its not a difficult mod. Removing the brackets from the thin chamber seemed more of a challenge.
Wow, looks good. I font know if I got the right flange now, thou.. lol
It should be here in a day or two. I'll upload a pic, maybe u can eyeball it for me. I don't have the head yet so I wouldn't be able to tell
 
This is just an MZ 65 pipe with an adapted header, an easy bolt on but not the best suited to a Minarelli build.
Most of these Minarelli cylinders unless they have been re ported/timed have exhaust port timings between 160-170 degrees and that means the pipe length from piston face to 3/4 of the way through the baffle cone (convergent section's mean point) would be 22-24" with a 12k peak, this pipe is much longer than that which will shift the peak lower then go lean as the resonant wave is mis timed, well below it's peak potential as these are 14k setups done right. The volume of the MZ pipe's chamber is also incorrect for these cylinders and will yield little to no gains meaning there will be no hit from the pipe only the port timing coming into play will be noticed. There are many pipes intended for the Minarelli with single speed use that yield long power band widths geared to peak at 12-14k like the Yasuni, Stage 6, Endy, Polini and so on and these can be found cheaper than the MZ used or even the jog pipe is better suited, Just my 2 cent's worth I hate to see people get conned then disappointed with lack of result's.
The more info one has the better chance of success. Thanks for the input
 
A very rough rough out on the jog pipe. Far as I can go until the engine is in the frame. Will have move the chamber in a good bit but its not a difficult mod. Removing the brackets from the thin chamber seemed more of a challenge.
That looks like the pipe I bought but like I said the flange is unknown now.
Thanks, know I know what to look for
 
Hey cannonball,
Is the flange for the Minarelli jog?
It looks like it to me, but I never seen a Minarelli jog in person.
 

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Hi guys, I think I made a mistake. I bought a zeda fire storm from a ebay sell to save $40 and I got this instead of this. I don't want to start taking it apart and then have the guy say no good u took it apart.
How can I tell if it's real and do u think it's real?
 

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Question for Street Ryderz

I have Gordon Jennings book that I have read a zillion times. I decided a long time ago expansion chambers
are a magic quantity I didnt want to delve to heavily in. So I dont. I understand the theory, but thats as far as I go.

My question is, while using this cheap “pipe”, I need to muffle it so I followed the trend to weld a gutted stock muffler
to it. Got it running pretty good. In an effort to get the oily exhaust away from the bike I added an extension. Immediately I noticed a change. So figuring it to be some what tunable I made a slip joint extension and experimented. Shorter reved higher longer better bottom. I prefer better low to mid than a wild top. You can see how long the extension is. This set up is very pleasing to use. I have to ride a mile of rough gravel road to get off our
island. The tractability is excellent. Still revs pretty well though not as high as with the shorter pipe.

Do you think the MZ65 would respond in a similar way?
 

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Bizal

I think probably only way to know may be to measure rod length. 84-5 mm from top of journal to top of rod at tdc.
Just carefully pull the head and jug. If its right, you are ahead of the game with the build. Otherwise reassemble and return. Maybe other folks know a way with out disassembly. I dont.
 
Bizal

I think probably only way to know may be to measure rod length. 84-5 mm from top of journal to top of rod at tdc.
Just carefully pull the head and jug. If its right, you are ahead of the game with the build. Otherwise reassemble and return. Maybe other folks know a way with out disassembly. I dont.
Me ether. This is the most expensive $40 I ever saved. Lol
 
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