Oil Coming Out At Spark Plug

yuckfoo

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I've been having a lot of trouble getting my bike started. This probably is not related to that trouble, but it could be. I have residue around my spark plug. I found this online: "the oil from the plugs two causes 1 is they were never torqued correctly. two is the crush ring, also called a fire ring, is only supposed to be crushed once." I read elsewhere to turn the plug by hand, then torque 1/8 of a turn. Is this correct? I have taken this spark plug out and put it back in before. Is this information about the crush ring accurate? I've never heard this before.
 
I read elsewhere to turn the plug by hand, then torque 1/8 of a turn. Is this correct?
Yes.
I have taken this spark plug out and put it back in before. Is this information about the crush ring accurate?
Yes...The NGK plugs cost me like $2.50 or so...Cheap enough to replace when removed to avoid the crush ring seepage problem and loss of compression resulting...i replace mine once a year even though it isnt really necessary for me to do so...Dont forget to gap at .025...DAMIEN
 
I'm not a firm believer of that, as being a certified auto/diesel technician, but yes the crush washer/fire ring is only supposed to be used once in a perfect world. I remove mine & reinstall all the time & never had a issue & I'm not putting a new $10 iridium everytime I take it out.
 
I'm not a firm believer of that, as being a certified auto/diesel technician, but yes the crush washer/fire ring is only supposed to be used once in a perfect world. I remove mine & reinstall all the time & never had a issue & I'm not putting a new $10 iridium everytime I take it out.
What do you think about purchasing the rings separately? They make copper rings. Would copper rings have any advantage?
 
Yes you could do that, but it will move your spark plug up higher in cylinder head & you would loose ever so slight compression/power. I just put a dab of anti seize on plug everytime I take it out & never had a sealing issue.
 
You could always just send me your bike and stuff, and start over fresh. Them pesky plugs. 😆

Not really to big a prob. Little seepage is expected if you reinstall a plug after its been in. Won't steal any noticable power. Eventually the seeping oil will seal the hole as it carbons up. You can also buy new crush rings if you are too worried. Really though just do what @DieselTech said with the anti seize an it will seal the leak and make it easy to get out next time. I've used the same plug in my mower for 13 years now. Free mower, was ten and no oil change or anything done to it in its life. I just clean it now and then and as the filter clogs up more, I just add more nitropropane to the fuel. Lol. Shes been going for me for 3 years now, 13 years total, with almost no maintenance to her. Lmao
 
You could always just send me your bike and stuff, and start over fresh. Them pesky plugs. 😆

Not really to big a prob. Little seepage is expected if you reinstall a plug after its been in. Won't steal any noticable power. Eventually the seeping oil will seal the hole as it carbons up. You can also buy new crush rings if you are too worried. Really though just do what @DieselTech said with the anti seize an it will seal the leak and make it easy to get out next time. I've used the same plug in my mower for 13 years now. Free mower, was ten and no oil change or anything done to it in its life. I just clean it now and then and as the filter clogs up more, I just add more nitropropane to the fuel. Lol. Shes been going for me for 3 years now, 13 years total, with almost no maintenance to her. Lmao
So you don't think this spark plug situation had anything to do with my starting troubles?
 
I think all your probs stem from that leaky crank seal. Once you get that fixed I'll bet she dials in and you start riding her instead of her working you. Lol
When did we decide I have a leaky crank seal? And how could I check for that?
 
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