New 2-stroke engine won't start

Heres another pic showing the same length reach plug, but the electrode is longer. I believe this is due to it being a different heat range plug. I wish I could find what a autolite 4123 crosses to in ngk.
 

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I will say 1 thing I've noticed between the autolite 4123 & the ngk br6hix. When running the autolite 4123 the ceramic & electrode are a reddish to brown color. If I switch to the ngk br6hix the ceramic & electrode stay black & oily, like it's too cold of plug.
 
I have not known too many people here in the forums that even waste their money on iridium plugs for these motors...better off with the coppers...DAMIEN
I'm a gearhead & wanted to try a iridium plug, I havent made my conclusion yet, but I think the iridium plugs dont foul as easy. I really havent got to run it long enough to make a good or bad opinion on them yet.
 
I don't think I took that much off, I only gave it a light sanding.

This happened after tried out a B6HS spark plug. Looks like the threads are slightly longer than the stock plug that came with the kit.
I use bp on some and never have them hit. Only time I ever hit was when I had a 38mm jug and a 40mm throw on the crank. I was in a hurry, didn't measure or check and just went to it. Bent the gudgeon pin and broke the bearing and had a nice dent in the middle of the piston. Not to mention the new plug was toast.
 
. Looks like the threads are slightly longer than the stock plug


This is just a reminder to prevent stripping out the S/P threads in the head

Any threads sticking out in the combustion chamber will get carbon on them.
Carbon on a thread will make the S/P stubborn to unscrew and it will have to be forced a little
When the S/P is removed the carbon on the thread will strip or starts to strip the S/P hole.

This happens alot to new M/B builders So use an indexing S/P washer to raise the S/P up a little so not threads are sticking out
 
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