142-F clutch catching and ringing at idle

Make sure you take it easy on it till you get the a/f mix nailed down. Don't want to see it die before you have some fun.
Oh yeah! I personally found the screw to actually be quite sensitive, I once hit the sweet spot with like one tenth of a turn, before screwing it up during an erroneous diagnostic: I'll work my way out through quarters of turns, until it's still a tad rich.

I've been looking forward to replace the stock carb with a Dell'Orto PHBG 14mm carburetor to let this little engine breathe a little better, NT carbs are the equivalent of a Dell'Orto SHA 12/12, but the PHBG has a much more generous finesse degree in matter of tuning than the SHA and the NT themselves.

If I knew about the length of the carburetor stud interaxis, I'd braze a manifold myself.
 
Oh yeah! I personally found the screw to actually be quite sensitive, I once hit the sweet spot with like one tenth of a turn, before screwing it up during an erroneous diagnostic: I'll work my way out through quarters of turns, until it's still a tad rich.

I've been looking forward to replace the stock carb with a Dell'Orto PHBG 14mm carburetor to let this little engine breathe a little better, NT carbs are the equivalent of a Dell'Orto SHA 12/12, but the PHBG has a much more generous finesse degree in matter of tuning than the SHA and the NT themselves.

If I knew about the length of the carburetor stud interaxis, I'd braze a manifold myself.
I got a dellorto 15/15 on my 49cc hausheng, runs great with a 71 jet. What measurement you need?
 
I got a dellorto 15/15 on my 49cc hausheng, runs great with a 71 jet. What measurement you need?
MAN, I can't believe it! I wouldn't ever expected to find somebody using that combination, especially with a 15mm Dell'Orto!
Is it an SHA model right? Only SHAs has the 15/15 nomenclature, whereas PHBGs has only one number; I do believe:

That 15/15 has a considerably larger airflow than the stock carburetor or the NT carb, it must be a very responsive engine!

I required to know the spacing between the carburetor studs, I'm aware which the right stud is approximately 3 degrees lower than the left one, using the middle of the interaxis as reference; I took the opportunity to ask because we are in the thematics, despite I could take the carb off myself: The house and the parents are taking away all of my freetime, and for my dearly sanity, I'd better not go fiddle in the garage this weekend.
 
Well get him that too. lol. He probably asked about the offset to in the post.
The right stud is about 3 degrees lower than the left one, assuming that the bolts are M8 sized, I could compensate a certain margin of error by drilling 8,5mm holes and countersink them, having a 3D printer, I can quickly produce non functional mockups to test things out before moving on aluminium, OxyPropane torch and filler metal.
 
The right stud is about 3 degrees lower than the left one, assuming that the bolts are M8 sized, I could compensate a certain margin of error by drilling 8,5mm holes and countersink them, having a 3D printer, I can quickly produce non functional mockups to test things out before moving on aluminium, OxyPropane torch and filler metal.
Just trace the gasket on a fender washer, cut it out, and slap on the tube or whatever you are making the manifold like. Saves ya a shoot to of time
 
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