212 Golf Cart

I know this has 4 wheels but the build is in the spirit of what we do here. A friend gave me a fairly nice Ezgo cart that needed too much
to repair the electrics. Having a new 212 and torque converter in boxes its a no brainer. About a zillion of these have been done, but as usual
I opted for the hard way. Not wanting to build all the intricate structures most folks do I opted to use the case of the old motor. Required a lot of tedious, actually a little over an hour, cutting of the motor case. With the case opened I can run a drive shaft inside the case turning the original input shaft with Lovejoys being driven by a a chain from the Preddy. This keeps every thing in its original places drive wise. Much less complicated fab wise. And yes thats 1/2 steel I cut and hole sawed from the case. Speed calculations indicate a pretty good top end.

The brush holder now holds a flange bearing to support the shaft on the other end. Just waiting on Lovejoys now. Ignore the rusty parts, they will be handled.
 

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To show the power of a 212 thru a converter this thing easily moves this 5x8 trailer around the yard. Starts easily from rest. I estimate the whole rig at 1500#? I use front spotting hitches to put my boats in the shed. The trees in the yard make it too much of an obstacle course for the truck. Its a mixed bag as there is no reverse, gotta hit it right the first time. This is largely an experiment as to the use of a 212 in a practical application. Its a Champ!
Now you got you a yard car!!! Handy for picking sticks up! I know mossy might have mentioned it early in this thread. But maybe if you do another golf cart, you can use 1 of the powersports gearboxes with reverse designed for the torque convertor. But it would be a more involved build for sure.
 
20A alternator ¿? These make life easier...
 

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I have the dynamo basically worked out, just have to make it happen. Am still a bit confused about the regulator. From what I have read the dynamo makes DC voltage being permanent magnet while motorcycle type make AC voltage. The regulators I find are a AC, dont think they will work. The dynamo is basically a big version of a bike tire rub generator that runs straight to the application and its output is rated by its design speed. Am thinking I will run a 12v voltage stabilizer instead of a regulator in case the dynamo over volts.
 
I have the dynamo basically worked out, just have to make it happen. Am still a bit confused about the regulator. From what I have read the dynamo makes DC voltage being permanent magnet while motorcycle type make AC voltage. The regulators I find are a AC, dont think they will work. The dynamo is basically a big version of a bike tire rub generator that runs straight to the application and its output is rated by its design speed. Am thinking I will run a 12v voltage stabilizer instead of a regulator in case the dynamo over volts.
When you get dynamo all fingered out, would you share your secrets with me. How its wired & items used?
 
The dynamo is mounted and the wiring figured out. I had assumed the case would be in the circuit and the yellow wires
were for power. I wired it as such and got nothing. While checking the wires with a test light I accidentally crossed the terminals with a big flash, meaning i completed the circuit. So the two yellow wires are the circuit. If running non LED lights I dont guess it matters how you hook the wires up. Any thing taking A polarity specific hook up should have the wiring sorted polarity wise with a volt meter. Runs a good load at a 1500rpm idle. Plan to add a Voltage stablizer for a constant 12v.
 

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So clarification on the charging system incase someone wants to adapt one to a build of something. Its a alternator, not a DC output generator as I was led to believe in a tractor forum. So its super easy to wire using a pit bike voltage regulator. This one In the pic.Hook the yellow and pink wires to the yellow wires on the alternator, ground the green, and the red is a regulated DC output, puts out 13.4v. You can run LEDs with this. Sorry for the confusion!
 

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So clarification on the charging system incase someone wants to adapt one to a build of something. Its a alternator, not a DC output generator as I was led to believe in a tractor forum. So its super easy to wire using a pit bike voltage regulator. This one In the pic.Hook the yellow and pink wires to the yellow wires on the alternator, ground the green, and the red is a regulated DC output, puts out 13.4v. You can run LEDs with this. Sorry for the confusion!
That is some great info.
 
Update on the golf cart. I have been working this thing like a dog hauling fire wood, pulling boats, etc. Its run perfectly
and has never broken. But didnt have reverse. Rarely an issue, until you really need it.
With the cost of the FnR gear boxes coming down to $80 for the kit I decided to convert it. So far has been easier than I thought. There was just enough room to fit it all in. Fortunately there is a tav30 belt long enough to handle the separation needed to fit the box. All that remains to do is weld the mounts, reassemble everything and install the shifter and cables.

As a note, I run the engine mounted rigidly, instead of on a complicated swing arm mount. Chain runs loosely between upper and lower idlers. As the suspension moves there is enough loose chain to take up never reaching totally too tight.
The idlers keep it running true. It has had no chain issues. I run bigger sprockets (15t) so there is always plenty of teeth in the chain.
 

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