My First Build

I've been watching my younger brother tool around on his motorized bike for a couple years. My wife and son had visit to grandma's in San Diego coming up so I figured it would be a good time to give it a go. I'm a big guy (6'4", 285lbs) so this isn't the right toy to try to set a speed record on, but I figured I could put together a fun cruiser for pretty cheap.

I had an original budget of $300... but after carefully considering the potential safety issues of the bike, I decided on upgrading to a hub-sprocket setup vs the rag joint and I was none-too-thrilled with the stock tensioner (even the 4-bolt version). I had images of the damn thing falling in to my spokes running through my head and decided an arch-type tensioner was in order.

As for the bike itself... I knew I wanted to go "all new". I managed to pick up a Kent "Sea Change" (where in the heck they came up with that name is beyond me) at the local Wally World on clearance for ... get this ... $74.50. I'd gone in to pick up a Huffy Cranbrook for $169.00... yeah... my mind was changed.

One thing I didn't like about both the Cranbrook and this Sea Change was the "coaster brake" only. I figured the coaster brake isn't that big of a deal so much as the lack of a front brake is. So I decided to pick up a set of handbrakes... next upgrade will be a single pull two-brake setup... hitting that front brake AND the clutch level is a little... tricky.

In any case... I've only put about 3-4 miles on her thus far... still breaking it in.

Here is a shot of the result... total outlay... approximately $375.00 plus perhaps $10.00 worth of over-inflated priced bolts...nuts...washers... at the local Tru-Value Hardware.

:D
Tang1.jpg
 
BTW... the saddlebag basket idea is a good one... I also saw a nifty trailer that some guy was tooling down the road with the other day (standard bike though). That would be interesting. :D
 
BTW... the saddlebag basket idea is a good one
Alot of these "bags" have a sewn on "pocket" on the bottom along with the velcro straps and I just slide onto that spring loaded hold down bar into that little sleeve pocket and it also holds like iron, nice and firm fit never slides around.
 
I've been watching my younger brother tool around on his motorized bike for a couple years. My wife and son had visit to grandma's in San Diego coming up so I figured it would be a good time to give it a go. I'm a big guy (6'4", 285lbs) so this isn't the right toy to try to set a speed record on, but I figured I could put together a fun cruiser for pretty cheap.

I had an original budget of $300... but after carefully considering the potential safety issues of the bike, I decided on upgrading to a hub-sprocket setup vs the rag joint and I was none-too-thrilled with the stock tensioner (even the 4-bolt version). I had images of the damn thing falling in to my spokes running through my head and decided an arch-type tensioner was in order.

As for the bike itself... I knew I wanted to go "all new". I managed to pick up a Kent "Sea Change" (where in the heck they came up with that name is beyond me) at the local Wally World on clearance for ... get this ... $74.50. I'd gone in to pick up a Huffy Cranbrook for $169.00... yeah... my mind was changed.

One thing I didn't like about both the Cranbrook and this Sea Change was the "coaster brake" only. I figured the coaster brake isn't that big of a deal so much as the lack of a front brake is. So I decided to pick up a set of handbrakes... next upgrade will be a single pull two-brake setup... hitting that front brake AND the clutch level is a little... tricky.

In any case... I've only put about 3-4 miles on her thus far... still breaking it in.

Here is a shot of the result... total outlay... approximately $375.00 plus perhaps $10.00 worth of over-inflated priced bolts...nuts...washers... at the local Tru-Value Hardware.

:DView attachment 176777
Nice build, be careful your rear brake is on bottom of frame. It goes on top outside.
 
Disappointed. I got my Banana pipe today... and the damn thing literally ends right at the underside of my down-tube right against the downtube. This just isn't going to work.

:(

I am bummed.

Any exhaust recommendations for bottom end torque?
 
Disappointed. I got my Banana pipe today... and the damn thing literally ends right at the underside of my down-tube right against the downtube. This just isn't going to work.

:(

I am bummed.

Any exhaust recommendations for bottom end torque?
Anything worthwhile is pricey... www.rmhperformance.com copperhead 65 is a great pipe or most smaller dirt bike pipe modded.
 
Since that photo was taken I removed the rear fender too. It was interfering with the rear brake installation. So I'm fenderless now. LOL! I ordered the rear brake off Amazon, it's especially for a 26" rear, so it had extra "reach" to get to the wheel. I also use a single handle-double cable pull. I think I ordered that off Amazon too.
The chain guard was a little bit of a problem child. Damien dialed me in with a guard made of heavier gauge steel that wouldn't break all the time. Also used a rubber grommet between the guard and the engine case. That required a slightly longer bolt. Tru-Value Hardware store had what I needed.
 
Also used a rubber grommet between the guard and the engine case.
I went further than that on the front of the chain guard, rather than attach it to the motor at all by the bolt, even with a grommet they will eventually snap off...I used an "Adel" clamp instead, wrapped around the down tube going from the seat to the pedal crank...The chain guards always snap in the front end when attached to the motor due to metal fatigue caused by any motor vibration.

You can see the fastening nut in the front hole but the Adel clamp itself is hidden behind the chain guard on the front...on the rear, you can clearly see the adel clamp.

Chainguard.JPG
 
I went further than that on the front of the chain guard, rather than attach it to the motor at all by the bolt, even with a grommet they will eventually snap off...I used an "Adel" clamp instead, wrapped around the down tube going from the seat to the pedal crank...The chain guards always snap in the front end when attached to the motor due to metal fatigue caused by any motor vibration.

You can see the fastening nut in the front hole but the Adel clamp itself is hidden behind the chain guard on the front...on the rear, you can clearly see the adel clamp.

View attachment 177040
What, you didn't have any coat hangers?
 
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