Huasheng Upgrade Clutch.

Cannonball3

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Looked at about a bazillion HS clutch threads and didnt find this, might not have looked enough. But is any one running one of these.
Its a nice design. Not having any issues with the old 3 shoe, but this 4 shoe with a radial spring should be superior. Its a 76mm and sold to fit the HS. There is no key but many of these clutches are keyless. Lapping the clutch and crank solves any issues.
Main thing is heavy. That can work for or against. Probably a bit slower to rev, but maybe a bit smoother and longer lasting.

Anyone tried one?
 

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I bought this clutch from aliexpress for kinda cheap. I didn't receive it in time so I got refund and then after few days it arrived at my home. I Installed it on my modded huasheng 142F engine and I can say its one of the best upgrades I have done next to cvt transmission. That 4 pad clutch grabs really hard and doesnt slip at all, thats why it longer last.
 
Doesn't staton sell a clutch like that, I'm pretty sure they used to anyhow. I've had no issues with my 3 shoe either, but will purchase a 4 shoe for a backup.
 
I looked thru Statons site and didnt see one, but its easy to miss stuff there as its organized a bit differently.
A search under clutch rotors shows the common clutches, but not this one. I have this one for future replacement, so
wont be able to report on its performance. My only concern its weight and when it engages. My HS is a hard starter at less than 1/3 throttle which is close to the current clutches engagement. I wouldnt mind a lower engagement, but it might make a center stand a must.
 
So this is a tale of three clutches. I went ahead and installed the 4 shoe as I removed the gear reduction to service and seal it. The 4 shoe clutch is the heaviest, weighing 14+oz versus 9+ for the stock HS steel clutch and 6+ for the aluminum clutch. I presume the aluminum clutch is really from a pocket bike.
The 4 shoe fits perfectly and does bite hard. The only downside it engages at 4000. This is either a plus or minus depending on what you want. If you like a quicker take off and to an extent quicker acceleration (assuming proper ratios), this one does it as its on the torque curve immediately. Its pluses are it greatly smooths the engine both at idle and higher revs, and its a bit smoother on engagement.
Im going to run it a bit to see if I adjust to it. I prefer a lower engagement. If you look at the stock clutch pic you will see
I spread the springs a bit. This lowered the engagement a few hundred rpms.
Still at $21 I think it a good buy, especially if the higher engagement is no issue for you. The pic of the hole spun in the
gravel attests to its bite.

As a side bar if one is running one of the 5:1 gear reductions (an excellent little gear box) seal it then fill it with 00 grease. You can even remove the inner seals on the bearings if you like. I cant see this little box not running close to forever.
 

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So this is a tale of three clutches. I went ahead and installed the 4 shoe as I removed the gear reduction to service and seal it. The 4 shoe clutch is the heaviest, weighing 14+oz versus 9+ for the stock HS steel clutch and 6+ for the aluminum clutch. I presume the aluminum clutch is really from a pocket bike.
The 4 shoe fits perfectly and does bite hard. The only downside it engages at 4000. This is either a plus or minus depending on what you want. If you like a quicker take off and to an extent quicker acceleration (assuming proper ratios), this one does it as its on the torque curve immediately. Its pluses are it greatly smooths the engine both at idle and higher revs, and its a bit smoother on engagement.
Im going to run it a bit to see if I adjust to it. I prefer a lower engagement. If you look at the stock clutch pic you will see
I spread the springs a bit. This lowered the engagement a few hundred rpms.
Still at $21 I think it a good buy, especially if the higher engagement is no issue for you. The pic of the hole spun in the
gravel attests to its bite.

As a side bar if one is running one of the 5:1 gear reductions (an excellent little gear box) seal it then fill it with 00 grease. You can even remove the inner seals on the bearings if you like. I cant see this little box not running close to forever.
You could add some weights to the clutch shoes, to lower your clutch engagement rpm. They sell tungsten plug weights, they work good. If clutch shoes are aluminum or whatever, drill a blind hole & drop weight in with some epoxy.
 
You could add some weights to the clutch shoes, to lower your clutch engagement rpm. They sell tungsten plug weights, they work good. If clutch shoes are aluminum or whatever, drill a blind hole & drop weight in with some epoxy.
Why do you reply on topic about gasoline engine, when you are into diesel engines. Thats why "DieselTech" :D :p
 
So this is a case of the clutch changing the whole feel/function of the bike. After about a 6mi test ride I have a choice
to make.
The clutch has made the engine so smooth that it revs higher with out vibes. It used to buzz the tank just below 6000.
Thats gone, you are not really aware you are revving it close to redline. With the 4000 engagement it gets the bike moving quicker because its in the torque zone and on to revving to its hp peak. In short its quicker. Realize this is a start from still pedal less shifter bike. Its pretty quick off the line with this clutch. The ratios are so nicely spaced it hits the next gear at the right point. I was speed shifting and redlining all the shifts. Being a real 50cc hoodlum. Not what I think i need to do to make this bike last. Other negative is clutch drop out when cruising.

So in conclusion this is a great clutch, especially on a single speed where you are cruising well above drop out. It is well made, but not serviceable. However it looks like it will last a good while. Will run it awhile any way, and just may stay with. The smoothness would be hard to give up!
 
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