That is the 12 T output sprocket on the old 4G. i’m guessing the groves were caused by the old chain alinement, it was not centered in the middle of the chain it was off to the right side in the link and maybe more alinement problems?
Chain Replacement and Sprocket Alignment
- Thread starter msiert
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rusty.western.flyer
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Don't have much to add, except, "great looking bike!"
Thank you Rusty!
Well the chain work didn’t go well today, got up at 5:30 am and started with deciding to cut the link that I would have to move the back wheel forward.
I choose poorly, should have done the other link because while it works the rear wheel is closer than I like to front of the rear fender.
I had another length of #415 chain and decided to cut that one 1 link longer and I screwed up and cut that one too short too. Then I tried to add a link by pressing in a rivet into a link but that always locked up the roller.
Gave up and put everything back together and put the tools away. Shut the door to the shop at 1:30 pm to come inside to watch football.
Just ordered another 130 links of #415 chain and (2) - #415 1/2 links and (2) - #410 1/2 links.
I try it again next weekend, it’s nothing but cold this next week so I’ll not ride till it’s redone.
Well the chain work didn’t go well today, got up at 5:30 am and started with deciding to cut the link that I would have to move the back wheel forward.
I choose poorly, should have done the other link because while it works the rear wheel is closer than I like to front of the rear fender.
I had another length of #415 chain and decided to cut that one 1 link longer and I screwed up and cut that one too short too. Then I tried to add a link by pressing in a rivet into a link but that always locked up the roller.
Gave up and put everything back together and put the tools away. Shut the door to the shop at 1:30 pm to come inside to watch football.
Just ordered another 130 links of #415 chain and (2) - #415 1/2 links and (2) - #410 1/2 links.
I try it again next weekend, it’s nothing but cold this next week so I’ll not ride till it’s redone.
Attachments
Update: Important Step in Replacing the Rear Wheel Sprocket Missed:
While waiting for the 1/2 links and new chain yesterday I noticed that the rear wheel had a lot of side to side movement. After searching I realized that when I removed the old rear wheel sprocket to install the new one that I removed the coaster brake arm and the position of that arm sets the preload for the hub bearings and needs to be set just right.
Thought about taking it to a bike repair shop to set the bearings but I found a video on how to properly set them and after about a 20 attempts in tightening that dang nut I got it set just right. Thank god I had a table bench vise to make it an easier job.
No more wobble or movement, YAY!
While waiting for the 1/2 links and new chain yesterday I noticed that the rear wheel had a lot of side to side movement. After searching I realized that when I removed the old rear wheel sprocket to install the new one that I removed the coaster brake arm and the position of that arm sets the preload for the hub bearings and needs to be set just right.
Thought about taking it to a bike repair shop to set the bearings but I found a video on how to properly set them and after about a 20 attempts in tightening that dang nut I got it set just right. Thank god I had a table bench vise to make it an easier job.
No more wobble or movement, YAY!
Attachments
Got the 1/2 links and more 415 chain today and spent a little time working on it.
The #415 1/2 link hole for the master link was not big enough for the master link post to fit through it but the #410 1/2 links worked fine?
What I did was add a 1/2 link to the peddle chain to be able to move the axle back further with the drive chain but it pretty much boils down to either being to long or to short without moving the engine forward.
I do have the option to move the engine forward, right now it is positioned as far back as it can go so I think that is my next step. Right now the axle is as far back as it can go in the drop out link, maybe it’s to far back now? So the engine needs to be move forward.
The nice thing about moving the engine forward a bit it is it does not effect the peddle chain.
The pictures below show the slots on the engine bracket and on the rear of the engine is a set bolt to move the engine forward.
The red paint on the chain is the link that I had the the last chain cut too which moved the wheel pretty tight to the front of the rear fender.
There is a picture of the 1/2 link on the peddle chain and also a picture to how far back the axle is to the end of the drop link. I believe by moving the engine up a little I will be able to move the rear axle up closer to the center line mark.
The #415 1/2 link hole for the master link was not big enough for the master link post to fit through it but the #410 1/2 links worked fine?
What I did was add a 1/2 link to the peddle chain to be able to move the axle back further with the drive chain but it pretty much boils down to either being to long or to short without moving the engine forward.
I do have the option to move the engine forward, right now it is positioned as far back as it can go so I think that is my next step. Right now the axle is as far back as it can go in the drop out link, maybe it’s to far back now? So the engine needs to be move forward.
The nice thing about moving the engine forward a bit it is it does not effect the peddle chain.
The pictures below show the slots on the engine bracket and on the rear of the engine is a set bolt to move the engine forward.
The red paint on the chain is the link that I had the the last chain cut too which moved the wheel pretty tight to the front of the rear fender.
There is a picture of the 1/2 link on the peddle chain and also a picture to how far back the axle is to the end of the drop link. I believe by moving the engine up a little I will be able to move the rear axle up closer to the center line mark.
Attachments
rusty.western.flyer
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Just saw this. I switched to high quality #41 chain. Seems to last longer than 415, specially the stuff that comes in kits.
Chainlube
Well-Known Member
You put the master link on the pedal side backward, you want the closed side toward the direction of travel. The engine side is fine.
Thanks for the heads up!
Will be moving the engine forward this morning might be messing with the peddle chain again anyways?
Anyone else have problems with # 415 1/2 links not letting the master link post to pass thru it?
Will be moving the engine forward this morning might be messing with the peddle chain again anyways?
Anyone else have problems with # 415 1/2 links not letting the master link post to pass thru it?
DieselTech
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They might have sent you 415hd half links or #41 half links & I think they use a slightly bigger chain link pin. I've ran across this b4 but cant remember what I had found.
The job is done!
In my case, changing the output sprocket from a 12 T to a 10 T lead me into replacing everything in that drive line, chain and the rear wheel sprocket.
When fitting the chain I could not find the sweet spot to have the rear wheel centered in the fender and be safely in the rear horizontal drop outs.
It’s a good thing that the engine base had slots that the bolts go through and thus the engine could be moved forward or backward or I wouldn’t have another option.
Today:
I moved the engine forward about 3/4” and that got me the right tension on the drive side and got the peddle chain tension where I wanted it after removing the 1/2 link.
After moving the engine forward and bolting everything down I went back and pulled one bolt out at a time to clean them and put blue lock tight on them. Then check everything over again for being lined up, tighten up and then I cleaned, oiled the chains and changed the fuel lines and in line filter. And I wiped the bike down with a quick wax spray.
Thank you all for all the comments!
In my case, changing the output sprocket from a 12 T to a 10 T lead me into replacing everything in that drive line, chain and the rear wheel sprocket.
When fitting the chain I could not find the sweet spot to have the rear wheel centered in the fender and be safely in the rear horizontal drop outs.
It’s a good thing that the engine base had slots that the bolts go through and thus the engine could be moved forward or backward or I wouldn’t have another option.
Today:
I moved the engine forward about 3/4” and that got me the right tension on the drive side and got the peddle chain tension where I wanted it after removing the 1/2 link.
After moving the engine forward and bolting everything down I went back and pulled one bolt out at a time to clean them and put blue lock tight on them. Then check everything over again for being lined up, tighten up and then I cleaned, oiled the chains and changed the fuel lines and in line filter. And I wiped the bike down with a quick wax spray.
Thank you all for all the comments!
