Piece o junk

I wonder if you can cut the plug in half and make a dongle type jumper. It'd kinda hang to the side a bit and the duct tape mixed with black tape would kind of be cool like racing stripes. Maybe hot glue on the dongle for extra insulation too. :unsure:
 
Would you mind showing us where that "lots of room might be"???...lol...lol.

A pic of his bike I just retrieved from another thread of his shows only enough room for his spark plug wire to attach to the plug and then it is touching the bike frame.

Ps...This is just another example of what I told the OP in previous posts here...Information needs to be provided, (along with pics), or we are all just wasting our time shooting in the dark to help out with his problems.

20221115_003157-jpg.183516
The whole issue is the front motor mount. Loose that and there is lots of room. If it's the latest and greatest, doesn't mean you have to use it.
 
The whole issue is the front motor mount. Loose that and there is lots of room. If it's the latest and greatest, doesn't mean you have to use it.
That would also get the cab straight too, The angle it is right now is way off
That front mount is made to pivot up and down...He just needs to use that pivot power so as to bring it down in the rear and raise it in the front a little using the pivoting function to best effect to realign that motor which will also decrease that carburetor angle which I am sure will effect how that motor is running which I would bet is so rich, it floods out.
 
That front mount is made to pivot up and down...He just needs to use that pivot power so as to bring it down in the rear and raise it in the front a little using the pivoting function to best effect to realign that motor which will also decrease that carburetor angle which I am sure will effect how that motor is running which I would bet is so rich, it floods out.
Actually, the angle of the float bowl will keep the float too low creating a lean condition and make it hard to start.
 
Changing the engine position would be idea to make the S/P accessible with a socket.

Don't forget a shorty S/P can be used too
But like I said in post #21 a S/P socket can be cut shorter
Cut an old style one down like this and use the Bottom 1/2
An adjustable wrench can be used
DSCF9522.JPG


Since I changed style heads to one that has the S/P hole in the center
The S/P was too close to the frame to be able to slide on a normal length S/P socket
I cut this S/P socket down so I could remove the S/P on my Whizzer,

DSCF9524.JPG
 

Attachments

  • DSCF9525.JPG
    DSCF9525.JPG
    195.6 KB · Views: 61
  • DSCF9526.JPG
    DSCF9526.JPG
    185.5 KB · Views: 65
  • DSCF9529.JPG
    DSCF9529.JPG
    143.2 KB · Views: 60
  • DSCF9530.JPG
    DSCF9530.JPG
    182.8 KB · Views: 58
  • DSCF9531.JPG
    DSCF9531.JPG
    111.3 KB · Views: 57
Back
Top