Skyliner70cc
Active Member
- Local time
- 11:05 PM
- Joined
- Nov 17, 2007
- Messages
- 1,338
Here are some tips that I use:
1. replace all bolts/nuts/etc... with quality US made stuff. I use threaded metric rod to replace all studs on the engine. I use metric couplers for engine mounts instead of nuts because their length allows more thread grip for greater torque tightening.
2. Double sided tape: Put strip of double sided tape under fuel tank and press tank firmly on frame. Makes install of frame retaining bolts easier and requires less torque on tank bolts for tank to remain in place. Some fuel tanks fail (leak) if the studs are tightened down too much..causing the studs to elongate and partially pull out of the tank.
3. Double sided tape on chain tensioner/bracket. Less frame scratching when repositioning.
4. Double sided tape on back side of CDI. Easier install if bracket is too small for frame and can get away with zip tie to hold CDI in place.
5. Cut to remove factory electrical connectors. The circullar connectors spread too easily and over time will come undone. Easy fix is to use quality sealed connectors (jack/spade) from Radio Shack. Heat shrink/solder all fittings and you won't have to worry about vibration causing a crimped wire to become dislodged.
6. Kill switch: that cheap red button kill switch will fail. Solution: aftermarket kill switch or throttle wiht one built into it.
7. Pour small amount of oil into spark plug hole to lube engine before first start.
8. LOCTITE everything regardless of what manufacturer says (Dax)
9. Don't baby your engine during break in. Drive it as you normally would but don't beat on an engine that isn't warmed up fully.
10. Castor oil baby! At least 20% in your fuel mixture will save that bushing conrod.
11. Boring out your exhaust only makes it sound louder. The power versus noise gain is not worth it in my opinioin.
12. Use lowest octane fuel possible unless you have tons of carbon build up on your cylinder head. These low compression engines (6.6:1 last time I read) can be run on kerosene in a pinch without much problem.
13. Watch for chain stretch. Don't ride a bike with a loose chain and keep eye on chain for first 100 miles. It will stretch and require lots of incremental adjustments. Nothing worse than throwing a chain at full throttle. It can cause rear wheel to lock up; cause chain to hit your leg or crack your engine case; and scare the %^&*( out of you.
14. Bluejeans, and NOT spandex, should be worn when riding a motorized bike. Save the spandex for the gym or the olympic cycling team. Helmets are ok.
15. Motorized bikes are car magnets. Ride defensively.
16. Play it safe and kill engine when encountering cops. At very least, faux pedal at low (quiet) throttle as you pass a police officer.
17. Its ok to laugh when you pass cyclist pedalling up a steep hill. Its ok to expresss that your wrist hurts from twisting the throttle for long periods of time but don't expect any pity.
1. replace all bolts/nuts/etc... with quality US made stuff. I use threaded metric rod to replace all studs on the engine. I use metric couplers for engine mounts instead of nuts because their length allows more thread grip for greater torque tightening.
2. Double sided tape: Put strip of double sided tape under fuel tank and press tank firmly on frame. Makes install of frame retaining bolts easier and requires less torque on tank bolts for tank to remain in place. Some fuel tanks fail (leak) if the studs are tightened down too much..causing the studs to elongate and partially pull out of the tank.
3. Double sided tape on chain tensioner/bracket. Less frame scratching when repositioning.
4. Double sided tape on back side of CDI. Easier install if bracket is too small for frame and can get away with zip tie to hold CDI in place.
5. Cut to remove factory electrical connectors. The circullar connectors spread too easily and over time will come undone. Easy fix is to use quality sealed connectors (jack/spade) from Radio Shack. Heat shrink/solder all fittings and you won't have to worry about vibration causing a crimped wire to become dislodged.
6. Kill switch: that cheap red button kill switch will fail. Solution: aftermarket kill switch or throttle wiht one built into it.
7. Pour small amount of oil into spark plug hole to lube engine before first start.
8. LOCTITE everything regardless of what manufacturer says (Dax)
9. Don't baby your engine during break in. Drive it as you normally would but don't beat on an engine that isn't warmed up fully.
10. Castor oil baby! At least 20% in your fuel mixture will save that bushing conrod.
11. Boring out your exhaust only makes it sound louder. The power versus noise gain is not worth it in my opinioin.
12. Use lowest octane fuel possible unless you have tons of carbon build up on your cylinder head. These low compression engines (6.6:1 last time I read) can be run on kerosene in a pinch without much problem.
13. Watch for chain stretch. Don't ride a bike with a loose chain and keep eye on chain for first 100 miles. It will stretch and require lots of incremental adjustments. Nothing worse than throwing a chain at full throttle. It can cause rear wheel to lock up; cause chain to hit your leg or crack your engine case; and scare the %^&*( out of you.
14. Bluejeans, and NOT spandex, should be worn when riding a motorized bike. Save the spandex for the gym or the olympic cycling team. Helmets are ok.
15. Motorized bikes are car magnets. Ride defensively.
16. Play it safe and kill engine when encountering cops. At very least, faux pedal at low (quiet) throttle as you pass a police officer.
17. Its ok to laugh when you pass cyclist pedalling up a steep hill. Its ok to expresss that your wrist hurts from twisting the throttle for long periods of time but don't expect any pity.