Prep Work for Building 2 Stroke?

Here are some tips that I use:
1. replace all bolts/nuts/etc... with quality US made stuff. I use threaded metric rod to replace all studs on the engine. I use metric couplers for engine mounts instead of nuts because their length allows more thread grip for greater torque tightening.

2. Double sided tape: Put strip of double sided tape under fuel tank and press tank firmly on frame. Makes install of frame retaining bolts easier and requires less torque on tank bolts for tank to remain in place. Some fuel tanks fail (leak) if the studs are tightened down too much..causing the studs to elongate and partially pull out of the tank.

3. Double sided tape on chain tensioner/bracket. Less frame scratching when repositioning.

4. Double sided tape on back side of CDI. Easier install if bracket is too small for frame and can get away with zip tie to hold CDI in place.

5. Cut to remove factory electrical connectors. The circullar connectors spread too easily and over time will come undone. Easy fix is to use quality sealed connectors (jack/spade) from Radio Shack. Heat shrink/solder all fittings and you won't have to worry about vibration causing a crimped wire to become dislodged.

6. Kill switch: that cheap red button kill switch will fail. Solution: aftermarket kill switch or throttle wiht one built into it.

7. Pour small amount of oil into spark plug hole to lube engine before first start.

8. LOCTITE everything regardless of what manufacturer says (Dax)

9. Don't baby your engine during break in. Drive it as you normally would but don't beat on an engine that isn't warmed up fully.

10. Castor oil baby! At least 20% in your fuel mixture will save that bushing conrod.

11. Boring out your exhaust only makes it sound louder. The power versus noise gain is not worth it in my opinioin.

12. Use lowest octane fuel possible unless you have tons of carbon build up on your cylinder head. These low compression engines (6.6:1 last time I read) can be run on kerosene in a pinch without much problem.

13. Watch for chain stretch. Don't ride a bike with a loose chain and keep eye on chain for first 100 miles. It will stretch and require lots of incremental adjustments. Nothing worse than throwing a chain at full throttle. It can cause rear wheel to lock up; cause chain to hit your leg or crack your engine case; and scare the %^&*( out of you.

14. Bluejeans, and NOT spandex, should be worn when riding a motorized bike. Save the spandex for the gym or the olympic cycling team. Helmets are ok.

15. Motorized bikes are car magnets. Ride defensively.

16. Play it safe and kill engine when encountering cops. At very least, faux pedal at low (quiet) throttle as you pass a police officer.

17. Its ok to laugh when you pass cyclist pedalling up a steep hill. Its ok to expresss that your wrist hurts from twisting the throttle for long periods of time but don't expect any pity.
 
Skyliner: Awsome response! Thanks! I was hoping for the small tricks of the build to help avoid the pain down the road! :) I'll let you all know how it comes out.
 
Some fuel tanks fail (leak) if the studs are tightened down too much..causing the studs to elongate and partially pull out of the tank.

I thought that the tank stud set-up looked a wee bit awkward. Has anyone made a bracket to which the tank could be fastened with reasonable torque and which - in turn - could be fastened with much more torque to the frame (...the bracket attached to the frame with much more torque...)?

I was thinking of putting a strip of old inner tube between the tank and the frame to prevent chafing. I think that the double tape would be great to hold all in place during fabrication.
 
I've always wrapped my frames with a section of innertube (under the gas tank). the tank grips well, without a lot of torque on the tank studs.

But...I'm really liking the idea of the Double sided tape!!
 
Additional tips:

Plastic throttle assembly with kill switch: Its hard to tighten this assembly enough so it won't loosen and rotate. The plastic splits easily if you try to snug it down. Solution is to tighten and then drill a small hole and install a small black sheet metal screw. This prevents rotation and improves safety and prevents breaking the throttle assembly during install.

Carb tips: I have had my main jet in carb loosen and fall into the float bowl. Every carb gets disassembled and jets and bolts are loctited.

Engine clutch cover: Had had bolts loosen on clutch side of engine. Bolts loctited into place.

Clutch cable: I don't like idea of a small retaining bolt to hold clutch cable setting. Once property setting is obtained, I solder the cable onto the little brass cable clip that pulls against the clutch lever assembly. Rationale: peace of mind. Removal is easy, a quick burst of heat from torch allows bolt to be loosened.

Speedometer: digital speedo from walmart that was recently clearanced for 5 bucks works perfectly with no interference issues.

Muffler pedal clearance: Instead of using heat to bend the exhaust which often damages the finish, I can get enough pedal clearance by removing the pedal and grinding it down a bit. Works 99% of the time.
 
I've noticed that the throttle does not appear to fit over the handlebar. The end clamp does (i.e. the metal collar with tightening fasterners); however, the actual handle beyond the collar does not fit the handlebar. Any thoughts?
 
I've noticed that the throttle does not appear to fit over the handlebar. The end clamp does (i.e. the metal collar with tightening fasterners); however, the actual handle beyond the collar does not fit the handlebar. Any thoughts?
Angle-grind then smooth the handlebars...it doesn't matter if their steel or aluminium(aluminium is much easier) it still works.
 
Angle-grind then smooth the handlebars...it doesn't matter if their steel or aluminium(aluminium is much easier) it still works.

Thanks for the input here. I ended up taking the throttle assembly apart and warmed-up the white plastic piece to soften it. I was able to grease the handlebar (up to where the throttle assembly clamp bites into the handlebar) and easily slide it on. I don't mind grinding / shaping but I try to avoid it if possible!
 
2. Double sided tape: Put strip of double sided tape under fuel tank and press tank firmly on frame. Makes install of frame retaining bolts easier and requires less torque on tank bolts for tank to remain in place. Some fuel tanks fail (leak) if the studs are tightened down too much..causing the studs to elongate and partially pull out of the tank.

I really didn't want to put any force on the studs' attachment to the tank. Therefore, I bought additional nuts and screwed them not quite all the way to the tank (loctite) and made a second bracket that fits over the top bar and butts up against the new nuts. I put the original brackets on underneath the top tube forming a clamp that puts the force on the stud (only) and not on the stud / tank joint (with the exception of any sideways force generated by tightening the brackets).

The tank sits a wee bit higher due to the new top bracket, but I hope that the force on the stud / tank joint is negligble. This allows me to really tighten the tank down without fear of rupturing it (at least I hope so! ;)).
 
Back
Top