100cc or 80cc which one?

[Gordy]

BBR tuning 80cc is $240 here, plus shipping it's $275 and the regular 80cc goes between $140-170, actually the only advantage I see on the BBR is just the cylinder head, the sport ignition (which is said to be better than the original) and the expander banana camera, but I don't see any other advantages.

Ps as far as I know regular 80cc's don't have a problem with overheating even with a regular head, or at least I never have.

I would go with the regular 80cc. The pipe on the BBR is nothing more than a fancy noise maker. Just get the 80cc and upgrade the head it has. There's a few other mods we can walk you through tonget a little more out of it

 

[Ivan168]

I would go with the regular 80cc. The pipe on the BBR is nothing more than a fancy noise maker. Just get the 80cc and upgrade the head it has. There's a few other mods we can walk you through tonget a little more out of it

Yes, that's what I thought too, I read a lot of topics where it is said that most of the engines of Bikeberry or Amazon, which are claimed to be more powerful, are not actually, but are ordinary 80cc, but the overcharge is large.

Ps I'm thinking when I buy the engine I should port the cylinder and grind the head by at least 1mm to increase the compression, I guess that will increase the power slightly, but can you share the other things that might help?

 

[Gordy]

Yes, that's what I thought too, I read a lot of topics where it is said that most of the engines of Bikeberry or Amazon, which are claimed to be more powerful, are not actually, but are ordinary 80cc, but the overcharge is large.

Ps I'm thinking when I buy the engine I should port the cylinder and grind the head by at least 1mm to increase the compression, I guess that will increase the power slightly, but can you share the other things that might help?

You will need a degree wheel to port your engine effectively. Squish gap is optimal between.6mm and .9mm

 

[Ivan168]

You will need a degree wheel to port your engine effectively. Squish gap is optimal between.6mm and .9mm

Unfortunately I haven't done this and have no experience, I've only drilled the exhaust and the intake, but I've heard that the overflows are not properly aligned on these engines.

 

[Chainlube]

so I can also polish the regular head and increase the compression.

No, just polishing the head won't increase compression. You have to change the volume of the head. That's why I suggested to pour the water in it, and measure the amount.

If you sand the mating surface down some that will increase your compression.

 

[Ivan168]

If you sand the mating surface down some that will increase your compression.

This is what I plan to do, to sand where the head gasket fits by at least 1mm.

 

[Ivan168]

The engine arrived and everything is fine, at first glance the quality was satisfactory, I opened the engine, cleaned it, sanded the head with 1mm and a little cylinder to fit the head gasket well, I decided to put a thin copper gasket, but it turned out that the spark plug was very low and the piston succeeded crushed the spark plug electrode luckily it didn't cause any damage after I put the original gasket on the engine started and ran fine tomorrow I'm thinking of removing the cylinder and porting it by filing the intake and exhaust ports well and I'm thinking of buying some brass sheet and lining up some brass trim but a little thicker this time so I don't snag a spark plug, then I'll try it out and see if it needs more modifications.

 

[Gordy]

An NGK BPMR7A is a shorter plug and would clear.

 

[Ivan168]

Or I'll put another sealing washer under the spark plug because I'm on a brand new NGK right now.

 

[Ivan168]

How much do you think I can file down the intake and exhaust hole safely?
PS I don't plan to touch the trans ports for now.