142-F clutch catching and ringing at idle

Otto Neumann

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Don't be too impressed, they set it up wrong, eventually the clutch walked on the bearings causing alignment issues.
There is nothing to hold the bearings in place with centrifugal forces the boar walks (slips) on the bearings

Yes the bearings was a good Idea but they installed em wrong

Only 2 bearings are needed, one on each side of the boar
The bearings should be installed like the bearings are installed in a wheel hub
There should be a ledge inside the boar on each side for the bearings outside edge to rest on
A spacer in between the two bearings supports the inside race of the bearings.

Much easier to just use an "Oilite bushing"

I figured out, in the end I made four counts and getting the bell machined would come to cost me a fortune; I'll stick to an Oilite bushing, it requires soaking only every so often:

Plus, if I were the type of person that would have no patience to wait for it to soak up overnight, I'd keep a bushing dipped in oil while the other is in use.

I just took off my bushing and I left it dipped in oil, I'll give an update tomorrow
 

Chainlube

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I figured out, in the end I made four counts and getting the bell machined would come to cost me a fortune; I'll stick to an Oilite bushing, it requires soaking only every so often:

Plus, if I were the type of person that would have no patience to wait for it to soak up overnight, I'd keep a bushing dipped in oil while the other is in use.

I just took off my bushing and I left it dipped in oil, I'll give an update tomorrow
Soaking a bronze/brass bushing in oil isn't going to give you much relief, you'll just get them oily for a few minutes until the oil dissipates, same as the bell, but there you might compromise the friction material.

Oilite soaks up the oil and gives lasting relief, kinda like opioids for a bike.
 

Otto Neumann

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Soaking a bronze/brass bushing in oil isn't going to give you much relief, you'll just get them oily for a few minutes until the oil dissipates, same as the bell, but there you might compromise the friction material.

Oilite soaks up the oil and gives lasting relief, kinda like opioids for a bike.

Dang, I'll use bearing grease instead of oil, it will hold up a little more:
For the custom Oilite bushing, should I measure my bushing or is it a standardize size that I can find around the forum?
 

Otto Neumann

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Soaking a bronze/brass bushing in oil isn't going to give you much relief, you'll just get them oily for a few minutes until the oil dissipates, same as the bell, but there you might compromise the friction material.

Oilite soaks up the oil and gives lasting relief, kinda like opioids for a bike.
Update:

I mounted the bushing back into the transmission, no improvement has been made: The clutch slips like crazy I can't keep the engine on at all, it's on an intermittent, nearly constant engagement; at this point, the brass bushing wasn't the issue, the clutch springs may be pure crap and the shoes drags at idle; I'm going to need a new clutch.
 

Wrench

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Oilite bushing should be re oiled (impregnated) every 10K miles or yearly
Re impregnate if the bearing was stored a long time and got dust and dirt on it. Dust & dirt sucks the oil out
Re impregnate if the bushing was machined, Machining sweats the oil out

Oilite recommends
To re impregnate an Oilite bushing with oil just put the bushing in 30w or 40w boiling oil for 5 - 10 mins.
No need to soak it over night.


Do not use grease with an Oilite bushing grease clogs the pours
Do not sand an Oilite bushing the sand clogs the pours

Measure your bushing so you know the correct size to order
 

Otto Neumann

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Local time
2:43 PM
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Messages
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Oilite bushing should be re oiled (impregnated) every 10K miles or yearly
Re impregnate if the bearing was stored a long time and got dust and dirt on it. Dust & dirt sucks the oil out
Re impregnate if the bushing was machined, Machining sweats the oil out

Oilite recommends
To re impregnate an Oilite bushing with oil just put the bushing in 30w or 40w boiling oil for 5 - 10 mins.
No need to soak it over night.


Do not use grease with an Oilite bushing grease clogs the pours
Do not sand an Oilite bushing the sand clogs the pours

Measure your bushing so you know the correct size to order
Thank you Wrench! It's in my next order!

I found some new clutches, but I need to inspect the shaft and find out if it's a straight or conical shaft 142-F
 

Otto Neumann

Active Member
Local time
2:43 PM
Joined
Oct 30, 2017
Messages
140
Location
Italy
Oilite bushing should be re oiled (impregnated) every 10K miles or yearly
Re impregnate if the bearing was stored a long time and got dust and dirt on it. Dust & dirt sucks the oil out
Re impregnate if the bushing was machined, Machining sweats the oil out

Oilite recommends
To re impregnate an Oilite bushing with oil just put the bushing in 30w or 40w boiling oil for 5 - 10 mins.
No need to soak it over night.


Do not use grease with an Oilite bushing grease clogs the pours
Do not sand an Oilite bushing the sand clogs the pours

Measure your bushing so you know the correct size to order
Another update:

I examined the clutch with a couple of friends, the masses has an issue with snapping back and the clutch remains engaged:
My engine is a straight shaft engine, and I can't find a spare clutch for it...I got a feeling that it will end like my 66cc kit.
 

Chainlube

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I would try some dry graphite lube on the inner workings of your clutch. Just pull it off and take it apart, clean all the surfaces of any dirt that might have accumulated and spray the contact surfaces (not the faces) with the dry lube and give it a try.

That will give you chance to examine all the inner parts for abnormal wear at the same time, which would indicate your issue.
 

Otto Neumann

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Messages
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Location
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I would try some dry graphite lube on the inner workings of your clutch. Just pull it off and take it apart, clean all the surfaces of any dirt that might have accumulated and spray the contact surfaces (not the faces) with the dry lube and give it a try.

That will give you chance to examine all the inner parts for abnormal wear at the same time, which would indicate your issue.
We have tried to spray a lube on the clutch guides, but it didn't gave it any improvements, the masses doesn't sit back into their seats correctly and stays engaged.

Even if I manage to salvage this clutch, my only option left is to get one from Staton inc, I can't find any of these 5/8 straight shaft clutches around ebay.

I have a terrible feeling about that motor, we have changed the chinese exhaust pipe with the smaller, second hand, original box exhaust for easing out the handling, the engine started to smoke as the exhaust got into contact with some oil, but after a little while the white smoke didn't stopped from getting out the exhaust; out of the fear which the box exhaust was causing the engine to draw its own oil, we replaced back the original exhaust, and after a few minutes of run we have found black smoke onto the bench.

Hopefully it was just some oil that splashed around the engine while handling it and somehow ended in the combustion chamber, and the black smoke that came out from the stock exhaust were just the residues; but I fear that due to the chinese poor tolerances of the cylinder, the engine's compression rings expands once it gets warm, to force the engine to draw its own oil in the combustion chamber.

The couple of friends that investigated that out are Honda resellers and they does deal with the original GXH-50s and they know these Honda clones.
 

DieselTech

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There is all kinds of clutches for the straight shaft 142f engine. The Huasheng 142f is great little engine, I've never had a problem with a true huasheng 142f. Plus you got to watch your not buying a copy of a copy on the 142f engines. I would buy the staton clutch, buy once, cry once!! But here is a couple pics of clutches, theres others thou.
Screenshot_20220206-144639_Chrome.jpg
 

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