142-F clutch catching and ringing at idle

[Otto Neumann]

There is all kinds of clutches for the straight shaft 142f engine. The Huasheng 142f is great little engine, I've never had a problem with a true huasheng 142f. Plus you got to watch your not buying a copy of a copy on the 142f engines. I would buy the staton clutch, buy once, cry once!! But here is a couple pics of clutches, theres others thou.View attachment 166481

Kings motor bikes sells them too, but the Staton clutch is more inspiring, it's made in USA, plus it must have been handled by people that actually knows what they are doing. When my Honda reseller buddy disassembled my clutch, he was horrified.

Is there any chance to swap the clutch pad material once it wears out on the Staton clutch?

 

[DieselTech]

At 1 time I think you could buy just the clutch shoes, but I havent looked into it for a while. The Staton clutch is the best clutch out there, but it sure has jumped in price, last time I bought 1 they were $48, now there $69. If you like to tinker & got some fab skills you could easily adapt a Comet 30 series torque convertor to a straight shaft 142f engine.

 

[Otto Neumann]

At 1 time I think you could buy just the clutch shoes, but I havent looked into it for a while. The Staton clutch is the best clutch out there, but it sure has jumped in price, last time I bought 1 they were $48, now there $69. If you like to tinker & got some fab skills you could easily adapt a Comet 30 series torque convertor to a straight shaft 142f engine.

I've been thinking about a manually operated, trapezoidal belt clutch, where a spring loaded tensioner would gradually put a belt in tension around a pulley on the 142f's shaft and act as a clutch; probably those Staton clutches are much more long lived than the chinese counterparts; I think I'll go for it.

I only have to check if my oil level hasn't dropped during the today's test, and let it run again to warm up and see if no more black smoke comes out, I can't invest into the clutch if the engine actually begins to self destroy once it warms up; in my opinion, it probably was just some oil that found its way to the combustion chamber while we were fitting the exhaust on it, it must have been tipped over at some point, they can't be that fragile.

 

[DieselTech]

I've been thinking about a manually operated, trapezoidal belt clutch, where a spring loaded tensioner would gradually put a belt in tension around a pulley on the 142f's shaft and act as a clutch; probably those Staton clutches are much more long lived than the chinese counterparts; I think I'll go for it.

I only have to check if my oil level hasn't dropped during the today's test, and let it run again to warm up and see if no more black smoke comes out, I can't invest into the clutch if the engine actually begins to self destroy once it warms up; in my opinion, it probably was just some oil that found its way to the combustion chamber while we were fitting the exhaust on it, it must have been tipped over at some point, they can't be that fragile.

My huasheng calls for 8.5ounces of oil, by the manual. I measured out 8.5ounces of oil & poured into engine, my engine with burn that .5ounce of oil out everytime I put 8.5 ounces of oil in it. So I started running 8ounces of oil & since have not had a issue.

 

[Otto Neumann]

My huasheng calls for 8.5ounces of oil, by the manual. I measured out 8.5ounces of oil & poured into engine, my engine with burn that .5ounce of oil out everytime I put 8.5 ounces of oil in it. So I started running 8ounces of oil & since have not had a issue.

After a while I had the time to check my engine again:

The oil level didn't got any lower after that exhaust swap, I noticed the presence of metal chips in the dipstick so the time for the oil chance is up; the engine itself has lost a bit of compression, I think that being factory fresh, it was just "bound up" and it broke in; these engines, as much as the original GXH-50, doesn't take that much time to break in.

After letting it sitting for two weeks, I tried again to run it, it started at the 6°Th pull, it still bogs a little, the sparkplug was sooted up when I checked it up. I placed a rag under the exhaust once the engine got warm to check if the oil was getting sucked into the combustion chamber again, the rag got slightly gray only after about 10 minutes at idle while warm.

The only thing I noticed is which once it gets warm, should I shut it down, there's no way to get it running again until it cools off.
My fellows told me which the engine isn't vented like the original Honda.

I'll run my 142F again this weekend, if it won't fail me, I may order a Staton clutch later this month.

Hopefully it won't fail me, I have some great plans for it: My bike is going to be completely belt driven, I designed on a CAD software a pair of custom pulleys out of the profile of an HTD 5M timing belt profile, their ratio matches the one between a 12T and 44T sprocket.

 

[Karl Snarl]

After a while I had the time to check my engine again:

The oil level didn't got any lower after that exhaust swap, I noticed the presence of metal chips in the dipstick so the time for the oil chance is up; the engine itself has lost a bit of compression, I think that being factory fresh, it was just "bound up" and it broke in; these engines, as much as the original GXH-50, doesn't take that much time to break in.

After letting it sitting for two weeks, I tried again to run it, it started at the 6°Th pull, it still bogs a little, the sparkplug was sooted up when I checked it up. I placed a rag under the exhaust once the engine got warm to check if the oil was getting sucked into the combustion chamber again, the rag got slightly gray only after about 10 minutes at idle while warm.

The only thing I noticed is which once it gets warm, should I shut it down, there's no way to get it running again until it cools off.
My fellows told me which the engine isn't vented like the original Honda.

I'll run my 142F again this weekend, if it won't fail me, I may order a Staton clutch later this month.

Hopefully it won't fail me, I have some great plans for it: My bike is going to be completely belt driven, I designed on a CAD software a pair of custom pulleys out of the profile of an HTD 5M timing belt profile, their ratio matches the one between a 12T and 44T sprocket.

You're running lean.

 

[Otto Neumann]

You're running lean.

Next saturday I'll rescrew it snug and I'll start working my way out past 2.5 turns out until the response from the engine improves

 

[DieselTech]

Next saturday I'll rescrew it snug and I'll start working my way out past 2.5 turns out until the response from the engine improves

If engine dont respond to carb setting changes, then you need to look/troubleshoot for a air leak around the intake manifold & carburetor, the hausheng has been notorious for a air leak at the intake manifold to the engine block.

 

[Karl Snarl]

Next saturday I'll rescrew it snug and I'll start working my way out past 2.5 turns out until the response from the engine improves

Make sure you take it easy on it till you get the a/f mix nailed down. Don't want to see it die before you have some fun.

 

[Otto Neumann]

If engine dont respond to carb setting changes, then you need to look/troubleshoot for a air leak around the intake manifold & carburetor, the hausheng has been notorious for a air leak at the intake manifold to the engine block.

I'm quite aware of that, I have read so many complaints about a metallic strip inbetween the gasket; the material with which the gasket comes with the engine looks s**tty on my engine, I'm actually looking forward for some good high temperature silicone, saturday I'll check if still have some