142-F clutch catching and ringing at idle

Mike St

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You may have the same motor/ belt drive I have. There is no Oilite bushing available
that I know of that fits. The kit comes with a brass bushing which can only be greased every
so often. Follow my modification where I enlarge the clutch bell and install a
true Oilite bushing. The mod is fairly easy to accomplish.
 

Otto Neumann

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I got the same 1 in chrome, makes bike alot nicer to work on.

I got the NGK sparkplug installed: The engine started right up without hesitation, and after fiddling with the air screw for about 15 minutes, I got it to accelerate with no hesitation, I exploited the moment for a plug chop, a dark brown hazelnut color is present on the electrode, albeit still a bit too dark; I tried to lean it a little more but it began to hesitate, that's as far as I can go. A little richer won't hurt it; this thing now is a screamer!

It starts right up even while warm now.

I'm wondering, since bearing sizes are a standard, what about getting a 5/8" shaft from Gasbike and swap it out, if not converting this straight shaft directly into a tapered shaft and call it a day?
 

Otto Neumann

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You may have the same motor/ belt drive I have. There is no Oilite bushing available
that I know of that fits. The kit comes with a brass bushing which can only be greased every
so often. Follow my modification where I enlarge the clutch bell and install a
true Oilite bushing. The mod is fairly easy to accomplish.
Hello Mike!

If you check deep back in the thread, I did mentioned a modification where the bushing was swapped with high quality SKF bearings, I don't remember the precise size, but I came across something similar on the forum, and I was contemplating to perform it; but I lack the proper tools to enlarge the clutch bell
 

DieselTech

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I got the NGK sparkplug installed: The engine started right up without hesitation, and after fiddling with the air screw for about 15 minutes, I got it to accelerate with no hesitation, I exploited the moment for a plug chop, a dark brown hazelnut color is present on the electrode, albeit a still too dark; I tried to lean it a little more but it began to hesitate, that's as far as I can go. A little richer won't hurt it; this thing now is a screamer!

It starts right up even while warm now.

I'm wondering, since bearing sizes are a standard, what about getting a 5/8" shaft from Gasbike and swap it out, if not converting this straight shaft into a tapered shaft?
Yeah I found these little hausheng engines like to run on the rich side which is good, it will help a little with cooling in the summer. Also if running the iridium version plugs, I found a 5HIX during the winter works best, then switching to a 6HIX during the summer.
 

Otto Neumann

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Yeah I found these little hausheng engines like to run on the rich side which is good, it will help a little with cooling in the summer. Also if running the iridium version plugs, I found a 5HIX during the winter works best, then switching to a 6HIX during the summer.
It's been a while, but I got a spare clutch from GasBike dot com, the 5/8" clutch slipped on like a glove and gave me no more issues!

I found which there was a washer out of place, locaated inbetween the brass bushing and the other piece that locks the bushing into place; it made absolutely no sense there; I tried out of curiosity to place that washer between the clutch and the brass bushing, and the binding immediately ceased, allowing it to idle perfectly; the bike is very sweet to ride and handle.

Perhaps the engine, which from now I'd better start to refer to it as "Mephisto", is throwing a tantrum once more:

In the past month it burned two CR5HSB spark plugs; they were black, sorta wet, with the central electrode whited out, upon testing they resulted to have a very weak spark plug; I tried every sort of positions for the AF screw, but no matter what, today it stopped in the middle of the street and left me stranded, after checking the plug, it resulted to be fowled again, after only two days of operation.

I'll have to try to regenerate my two plugs, as each of them has performed about an hour of service, they virtually are brand new. At this point the carburetor is jetted way too rich for my altitude or it's straight forward defective. I considered the fact that my CR5HSB plugs may be too hot.

I eventually did a bull*hit, I tampered the seal located on the bottom of the notch located besides the AF screw, as I heard around about a hidden screw under a brass cap; I went ahead out of the misbelieving which that were a zinc coated brass plug.

Now the engine makes a "chuffchuffchuff" noise when I crank it by hand, venting from that damn hole; I'll have to get a new carburetor.

In your opinion, since I have the chance, is it worth to buy another identical carb, or just move straight away to a Dell'Orto carburetor?
 

JeffP

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I didn't read every page but I've solved my clutch issues first by putting in one more washer on top of each clutch spring to change the engagement rpm to just a little higher. If it doesn't engage at all you've used too thick of a washer. This will get rid of the ringing/ catching noises. Then I take my brass bushing and polish it. Next, I'll cut 3 shallow grooves all the way around with my Dremel tool so the oil has a place to stay. I'll also cut a few small grooves between the parallel lines so that oil will freely run between the grooves. Then I use a mixture of Marvels mystery oil and graphite to squirt into the running shaft whenever it starts to drag. Eventually the bushing gets worn to perfection. I don't have access to a lathe to install bearings, but that would certainly be the poop.
 

hazmat

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Greetings!

I just completed my second build, a cruiser bike with a classic Huasheng 142-F kit:
Feel free to take a look!

View attachment 166209

I'm experiencing some troubles with the transmission and the clutch:

My bell seems to be out of concentricity, as it performs a sort of wiggle and touches the transmission's pulley in a precise spot, and causes a ringing noise while spinning. The play seems to be very minimal, it could be solved by sanding the bell a little just to gain some clearance, the bell could even have a non perfectly flat surface too.

My stock clutch also occasionally attempts to catch the bell while the engine is idling, causing the bike to jolt when parked, and giving uncomfortable kicks while riding with the engine on, but idling.

I just came back from the first ride, and I noticed a generous amount of black flakes covering the rear fork and fender.
I'm aware of what fenders can do: Every "non serviceable" bolt in this bike has been torqued down with Loctite medium strength thread locker.

Being a centrifugal clutch, I lowered the idle as much as the engine could tolerate without shutting down on its own, but it didn't solved the problem.

The engine were out of tune since it came to me, it took 15 pulls to start and 2 once warm, it must have been lean:
I screwed the air screw all the way in until snug and then unscrewed by 3,5 turns, after getting it started and warm I kept unscrewing until the bogging ceased and the engine felt responsive again; right now it starts at the second pull as cold and always at the first once warm, it's a great lil engine.

It bogs a little while throttling up and takes its time to idle back, causing the clutch to stay engaged for a few seconds, causing an uncomfortable braking.

I have linked a pair of videos of the jolty and ringing idling, after a ride the clutch probably wore out a little, but it generally is much more violent.

Do you have any suggestions?
Springs
 

JeffP

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I've had a number of these set ups. Good looking bike by the way. Here's the easiest way to take care of that clutch. Remove the clutch from the shaft, take each shoe off and put one more washer on the end of the spring before reattaching the shoe. This will increase your rpm engagement level. If it doesn't engage at all, the washer was too thick. All of my builds have the second washer in them and they work great.
 
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