142-F clutch catching and ringing at idle

Otto Neumann

Active Member
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Oct 30, 2017
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Italy
Greetings!

I just completed my second build, a cruiser bike with a classic Huasheng 142-F kit:
Feel free to take a look!

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I'm experiencing some troubles with the transmission and the clutch:

My bell seems to be out of concentricity, as it performs a sort of wiggle and touches the transmission's pulley in a precise spot, and causes a ringing noise while spinning. The play seems to be very minimal, it could be solved by sanding the bell a little just to gain some clearance, the bell could even have a non perfectly flat surface too.

My stock clutch also occasionally attempts to catch the bell while the engine is idling, causing the bike to jolt when parked, and giving uncomfortable kicks while riding with the engine on, but idling.

I just came back from the first ride, and I noticed a generous amount of black flakes covering the rear fork and fender.
I'm aware of what fenders can do: Every "non serviceable" bolt in this bike has been torqued down with Loctite medium strength thread locker.

Being a centrifugal clutch, I lowered the idle as much as the engine could tolerate without shutting down on its own, but it didn't solved the problem.

The engine were out of tune since it came to me, it took 15 pulls to start and 2 once warm, it must have been lean:
I screwed the air screw all the way in until snug and then unscrewed by 3,5 turns, after getting it started and warm I kept unscrewing until the bogging ceased and the engine felt responsive again; right now it starts at the second pull as cold and always at the first once warm, it's a great lil engine.

It bogs a little while throttling up and takes its time to idle back, causing the clutch to stay engaged for a few seconds, causing an uncomfortable braking.

I have linked a pair of videos of the jolty and ringing idling, after a ride the clutch probably wore out a little, but it generally is much more violent.

Do you have any suggestions?
 

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Those black flakes could be the chain contacting the tire as you ride.

I just went downstairs to check the tire's wall, it has no wear at all, plus there's a decent amount of space between the tire and the chain; my pinkie can slide right inbetween; I have no idea what's going on.

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I've been looking around for a little while, and honestly I believe to have omitted a key element: The bronze bushing that sits inbetween the bell and the engine's shaft may have dried up: I probably should take it out and soak it in some engine oil.
 

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I've been looking around for a little while, and honestly I believe to have omitted a key element: The bronze bushing that sits inbetween the bell and the engine's shaft may have dried up: I probably should take it out and soak it in some engine oil.
Most riders swap out the bronz for an Oilite bushing, they soak up oil.
 
Most riders swap out the bronz for an Oilite bushing, they soak up oil.

Around the forum I've seen people that has bored the bell to insert something like 4 or 5 ceramic bearings in the place of the standard bushing; I've been quite impressed, I'd love to find that thread out again.

I'm checking Oilite dot com, seems that I need a part number or either pick my digital caliper and request a custom bushing.
 
As chainlube stated the oilite bushing is bad or needs oiled, they can be swapped with bearings, but requires some machine work to accomplish it. It's just needs replaced with a better quality oilite bushing, or something better like graphene.
 
Around the forum I've seen people that has bored the bell to insert something like 4 or 5 ceramic bearings in the place of the standard bushing; I've been quite impressed, I'd love to find that thread out again.
Don't be too impressed, they set it up wrong, eventually the clutch walked on the bearings causing alignment issues.
There is nothing to hold the bearings in place with centrifugal forces the boar walks (slips) on the bearings

Yes the bearings was a good Idea but they installed em wrong

Only 2 bearings are needed, one on each side of the boar
The bearings should be installed like the bearings are installed in a wheel hub
There should be a ledge inside the boar on each side for the bearings outside edge to rest on
A spacer in between the two bearings supports the inside race of the bearings.

Much easier to just use an "Oilite bushing"
 
As chainlube stated the oilite bushing is bad or needs oiled, they can be swapped with bearings, but requires some machine work to accomplish it. It's just needs replaced with a better quality oilite bushing, or something better like graphene.
Today I had more time to check Oilite out, I'm definitively going to get a custom bushing from them:

Today I took off the bushing from the transmission, it was dry like a rock; and this morning the clutch bell was completely binding with it; I hooked it up with some wiring and I left it hanging inside a 10W30 oil bottle, I'll reinstall it tomorrow and I'll see if things improve
 
Have you tried cursing at it and threatening to " take it to the farm". Have a beer, stare at it with the shotgun in hand. Let it know you are not f n around. Then ask it one more time. Usually they give up and let ya win. If not, you know what you need to do....
I cursed at it many times: Yesterday that trap nearly sent me to the hospital:

The crappy stock throttle control slipped off the handlebars while I was backing up the bike, revving it up; I was at the moment in a very odd position and the bike started to run in a circle, with me in the middle holding on it, desperate to don't fall on my back

I managed to lift the rear tire without falling on my back and flipping on myself the running bike, and I pulled the plug; the crappy chinese throttle flew past two courtyards afterwards
 
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