18g lighter crank and removing the rod

JerboaJohn

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how hard is it to press out the con rod pin to take the rod out do I need a press to do it or can I tap it out with a mallet? a crank I was thinking of getting from CDHPower
pre-drilled crank long AF80 rod for high hole piston
I haven't seen much ever mentioned abt this rod it's not more common and there's other 38mm crank+rods. I'm thinking abt this 1 bcs I want to balance a crank and also make sure there's oiling holes at the top end. maybe this one I'll be farther ahead. plus CDH is a good seller
 
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I just stuck a af80 rod on a Runwell pk80 crank. Came from an Amazon a80 engine.

You need a press for the crank pin.

That crank is probably balanced to the rod. That is how Zeda motor sports did the crank in my case reed. It's better but if you plan to balance the crank yourself just get one with 2 holes per side. To balance my crank I drilled an additional 2 holes per side but stopped short of going all the way through. Filled the holes with epoxy to "sruff" the case.




 
ok,, better pass on the cdh crank. I don't trust stuff as is. parts need massaged haha. a lighter Runwell rod would be a plus!
this is the 1st engine I'm building from scratch
 
I just stuck a af80 rod on a Runwell pk80 crank. Came from an Amazon a80 engine.

You need a press for the crank pin.

That crank is probably balanced to the rod. That is how Zeda motor sports did the crank in my case reed. It's better but if you plan to balance the crank yourself just get one with 2 holes per side. To balance my crank I drilled an additional 2 holes per side but stopped short of going all the way through. Filled the holes with epoxy to "sruff" the case.




I would think the weight differance is just the diff in length,so now you have a long rod 40mm stroke just like a Zeda,what's it going in?
 
i still have the Hyper but I might not use it bcs 1" forks. if I can finish this and the 118 by Sept. thinking I'd like to take them both to SoCal n see what this motor does on the track but don't they all run 38mm?
 
ok,, better pass on the cdh crank. I don't trust stuff as is. parts need massaged haha. a lighter Runwell rod would be a plus!
this is the 1st engine I'm building from scratch
That's a short rod. Probably why the pk80 likes to rev. Never had one but kinda want to try one out.
 
Yea that rev like fu@@#$ I have taken out the base gasskit ported proboley 2 much and piston scert but every little thing I did it sounded smoother and more powerful I have stock jug want to upgrade when this one shi#$/ it's salf I raised the ports 2/3 mm and poreded piston scert by 7 mm widen them by 10mm both stock speed was onley 26 now it dose 34 with same gering I believe I have tripped the power I evon went nuts on the stock carb opened it up where I could but carfall not to cause aire leeks opened up the intake manifold the exsaust I'm soon gutting to try it out think that's the last restrictive park so fare all I done was chop the type out the cap that made a good but of difference all so I used to have a lot of problems with 4sroking but after I started to port and mot it seemed to smooth it out it was graight and the power band is insane every time I go to bump start it the back wheel will lock up with me peddling that's how much compreshon it has and the spark plug is your best frend when it comes to pissing around with running and power spark plug can tell you if you are detonating running lean/ rich hot cold if you have enough oil whilst at WOT I love this thing it's the best I want to see what gutting the exsaust entirely and people was on abowt letting and shortening the chamber in the exsaust and the headder to chamber the longer it is the lower rpm will like it but if you shorten the header it help a with hight flow exsaust waves for back pressure it's your frend to a cartenpoint but don't have 2 much it will go boom in the engin hope this helps it was fun just be carfall but cheep in mind if you was to do still and you went 2 far and you started to loose power the jugsand piston are cheep
 
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