1948 Whizzer Pacemaker H model motor auto clutch never disengages.

Tracy Chandler

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Hello Forum,
I hope someone can help with my auto clutch problem and answer a few auto clutch question.

First question: When a bike is equipped with a auto clutch is there any purpose in have a clutch lever and cable system to slacken the drive belts?
It seems redundant. However, my bike has both.

Second question: when my Pacemaker is idling (can't give exact RPMs but it's a slow idle) the auto clutch should be disengaged correct? In other words, I should be able to set the back tire on the ground, and the bike should not want to take off.

Assuming I correct on the second question I'm struggling on how the auto clutch should operate. I have had it apart a few times and yes things are worn but seem to all be functional. I believe the little arms engage the clutch plate for the purpose of pedal start and then when the motor starts the higher RPMs and resulting centrifugal force should pull them away from engagement of the clutch plate and the clutch is then disengaged and waiting for higher RPMs so that top end of the clutch with the spring and other components expand and place pressure on the clutch and pressure plate thus engaging the clutch. And if I'm correct in these assumptions mine simply does not disengage when the motor starts. I'm fairly confident the issue is with the four little arms not disengaging, however the little arms do move freely so I'm at a loss why the aren't disengaging if that is the problem.
 

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Hello Forum,
I hope someone can help with my auto clutch problem and answer a few auto clutch question.

First question: When a bike is equipped with a auto clutch is there any purpose in have a clutch lever and cable system to slacken the drive belts?
It seems redundant. However, my bike has both.

Second question: when my Pacemaker is idling (can't give exact RPMs but it's a slow idle) the auto clutch should be disengaged correct? In other words, I should be able to set the back tire on the ground, and the bike should not want to take off.

Assuming I correct on the second question I'm struggling on how the auto clutch should operate. I have had it apart a few times and yes things are worn but seem to all be functional. I believe the little arms engage the clutch plate for the purpose of pedal start and then when the motor starts the higher RPMs and resulting centrifugal force should pull them away from engagement of the clutch plate and the clutch is then disengaged and waiting for higher RPMs so that top end of the clutch with the spring and other components expand and place pressure on the clutch and pressure plate thus engaging the clutch. And if I'm correct in these assumptions mine simply does not disengage when the motor starts. I'm fairly confident the issue is with the four little arms not disengaging, however the little arms do move freely so I'm at a loss why the aren't disengaging if that is the problem.
Welcome to the forum!

@Wrench @mason_man and @Risk Man should be able to help you, if anyone here can.
 
You can always put a slip clutch on and ride your bike until you figure out what's wrong with your Salisbury clutch

As far as I know, your only the 2nd person on this forum who's asked about a Whizzer Salisbury Clutch


Maybe if you contact @Jim D. by Private Message he can help you
 
Sounds like the center bolt might be to tight, there's a spacer in the center between the two bearings. Loosen it up a little bit and see if that helps it. Or you might have a bad bearing. See if these helps.
 
Now that I have the1948 Whizzer Pacemaker running, I'm naturally noticing things I think might need attention.
Primarily the motor has a knocking sound. Maybe I'm just not use to the sound of this old motor, and the knocking sound is normal for this early motor.
Or maybe it's the connecting rod? Either way it doesn't seem to effect performance and hasn't shown other signs of trouble.
Any thoughts?
 
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