1st time w/reed valve kit

Vikingimike01

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Joined
Jul 1, 2018
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943
Does it run without the reed valve? Im pretty sure it has more to do with you getting the jug machined on the bottom and not the top. I think your port timing is off.
But like i got it machined from the bottom because it was lower, so like.. It would make sense right? lower the piston lower the jug?
I don't know if it runs without the reed valve because I need to get the whole bike together normally first, haha.

What size carb? An 85-90 for main jet is not too big it's actually rather small,in my p/p engine I run a 24mm carb wiith 55 pilot jet and main is 115 and right now with the colder weather setting in that 115 is too lean I can't get my topend unless it's choked.
Stock NT carb
 


GreasyChris

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Jan 3, 2019
Messages
767
When you machined the bottom of the jug you lowered all the ports and changed port timings. You can make it up with gaskets but then you're back to where you started
 

Vikingimike01

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Jul 1, 2018
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Yep exactly so I don't know where i should have taken off from. If i do from the top the piston is still lower.
I mean yeah, could be. I will try in a few days but i dont have a size 16-17 spanner so i cant fix the wheels that popped out of the frame lol.
I was trying to get the jug adjusted in relation to the top of the piston, i mean the top controls exhaust and transfers, and theres a window on it because of the reeds so... just made sense to me idk if its right or not
 

Street Ryderz

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Oct 14, 2016
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3,171
But like i got it machined from the bottom because it was lower, so like.. It would make sense right? lower the piston lower the jug?
I don't know if it runs without the reed valve because I need to get the whole bike together normally first, haha.


Stock NT carb
A stock NT carb is only 14mm and not enough volume for most reed setup's unless your using the rse reed.The g2 or dio reed type setups require a min of 18mm to work ok and work best with a 21mm carb or bigger depending on port area's (size).
 

Street Ryderz

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Oct 14, 2016
Messages
3,171
Yep exactly so I don't know where i should have taken off from. If i do from the top the piston is still lower.
I mean yeah, could be. I will try in a few days but i dont have a size 16-17 spanner so i cant fix the wheels that popped out of the frame lol.
I was trying to get the jug adjusted in relation to the top of the piston, i mean the top controls exhaust and transfers, and theres a window on it because of the reeds so... just made sense to me idk if its right or not
The top should all ways be the first addressed so as not to alter the port timing to much,cutting down the top to bring the pistons crown as close to the deck as possible yields more comp and better squish control.The piston's crown is what determines port timing and lowering the cylinder can induce crosstalk if not carefully done.
 

Vikingimike01

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Joined
Jul 1, 2018
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943
What? I didn't mean to be offensive or aggressive. I was just trying to say how i meant to do it.

So, I got about 1.7mm taken off, do I need to replace it with gaskets? Thats how much the top of the piston was lower
 

Vikingimike01

Active Member
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Jul 1, 2018
Messages
943
No I don't like to mess, when I do i try to make it obvious. With laughing faces, or random upper case letters, or saying something after it ( such as: OMGGGG YOU DIDNT KNOW THAAT? )
 
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