2 coils burnt, can I get away with custom killswitch?

nurse1

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Hello, I am new here.

I just burnt my second coil. It happened roughly after same time. Today after 2 mile ride I stopped at nearby shop and turned engine off with killswitch, came back after 5 minutes and it won't start, coil got burnt marks on it, just like first one (that died after killswitching when going home).

Therefore I would like to ask you if I can just cut blue/black cable to make a custom switch that will just break circuit and use it instead of this stock killswitch, or would such contraption cause strain on coil as well? I made some kind of picuture to show it:

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Thank you for help.
 
If I understand what you mean by killswitching its a way to slow down without braking/ making it backfire. I would stop that and get a front disc. If you're too hard on chinese parts of course they're gonna break. Also get the OZ super magneto. I would just pull in the clutch and brake.
 
I have not seen this before - brown marks on coil are common, but don't hurt coil unless they are caused by water getting in.

did you test coils? are wiring & connectors good?
 
Hello, I am new here.

I just burnt my second coil. It happened roughly after same time. Today after 2 mile ride I stopped at nearby shop and turned engine off with killswitch, came back after 5 minutes and it won't start, coil got burnt marks on it, just like first one (that died after killswitching when going home).

Therefore I would like to ask you if I can just cut blue/black cable to make a custom switch that will just break circuit and use it instead of this stock killswitch, or would such contraption cause strain on coil as well? I made some kind of picuture to show it:

View attachment 83422


Thank you for help.
The kill switch shouldn't be causing any harm to the CDI. How do you have it wired?
 
I will add that I have had 2 bad CDI's in a row and they were a b**ch to figure out at first because they would work properly at first, then after a short time of running would fail either completly or just partially and run like crap. then after sitting for a short time would show spark, run briefly then crap out again.
 
Thank you for answers.
If I understand what you mean by killswitching its a way to slow down without braking/ making it backfire. I would stop that and get a front disc. If you're too hard on chinese parts of course they're gonna break. Also get the OZ super magneto. I would just pull in the clutch and brake.
I meant switching engine off, and I would like to keep some kind of emergency measure other than just letting clutch off to stall it. And thank you, just ordered that improved mag.
I have not seen this before - brown marks on coil are common, but don't hurt coil unless they are caused by water getting in.

did you test coils? are wiring & connectors good?
Wiring and connectors are good. It just seems coils die after a while of using stock handlebar kill switch. The first one I have used for months without harm, but I had the kill switch completely unplugged, but as soon I figured out nice connection and started using it, problems arised (my frame is awkward, so had to tinker around a bit to keep cables away from hot parts). Also my cover is sealed with heat resistant gasket maker, both coils were bone dry when I removed them.

The kill switch shouldn't be causing any harm to the CDI. How do you have it wired?
1 cable to black, 1 cable to blue connectors. No harm is done to CDI, just magneto coil.

I will add that I have had 2 bad CDI's in a row and they were a b*tch to figure out at first because they would work properly at first, then after a short time of running would fail either completly or just partially and run like crap. then after sitting for a short time would show spark, run briefly then crap out again.
My both CDI's (I got one spare from friend) work excellent so far.

Breaking the circuit is better imo. That's how mine is.
I think I will go this way too.
 
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you should test mags with a meter and look carefully at things around the mag - been running a repair shop for these for 10 years or so and not seen this problem ever
 
you should test mags with a meter and look carefully at things around the mag - been running a repair shop for these for 10 years or so and not seen this problem ever
Thank you, what should be the correct values?
 
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