2 cycle motor clutch: How tight, and what about rust?

jeffjot

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Brand new to this, I have a 2 cycle motor kit I'm installing on a 10 speed and I just had a couple questions------ mostly about the clutch.
First, I noticed that it is extremely hard to move the release lever over and very hard to turn the small chain sprocket when doing this and the clutch is disengaged.
Does this mean the flower nut is too tight? How tight is the flower nut supposed to be screwed on ideally. I can't see anywhere where this is said.

Secondly, on taking the flower nut off, the brand new engine has some rust on the metal disc (see pic). Is this normal?
A dumb question, but should this be oiled, or should it be sprayed with rust neutralizer? Or does it have to stay dry so the pads will grip.

Third question, is it okay to leave all the gearwork on the bike along with the 2 stroke engine, or is this dangerous? I am mounting it on an 18 speed bicycle and thought I would just move the gear switches further in on the handlebars. Its a lot of cables but I guessed it would be simpler and you'd still have the gears if you want to ride manually.

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Sand the rust off with some fine sandpaper, and spray it down with brake clean and dry it off, it'll be fine.

As far as the shifters go, just move them to where they are handy and everything fits.
 
To properly adjust the flower nut, just follow these instructions that I have posted many times here in the forums...lol...lol.

When adjusting the flower nut on the clutch, make sure that you have the clutch lever pulled in and locked in place.

Tighten the flower nut until you can't turn the back wheel at all, from there, turn the nut counter clockwise a "notch" at a time until you get the wheel to turn freely by hand and stop right there and put the lock screw back in place at that notch where the wheel turns freely.

When you release the lever it should of course be totally locked up and at this point you should have all the slippage or overtightness totally out of it.
 
An installation video says the clutch arm should be flush with the engine (pointing straight forward toward the front of the bike) when tightening the clutch wire screw. But this is under load, as in its permanently pushing on the axle of the clutch in some. You have to push the arm in, quite hard in order to get it parallel to begin with.
Is this the way its supposed to be? Doesn't that create friction/wear? When you take the nut off the top of the clutch arm, its not adjustible at all any way I can see. I can't tell if my parts are out of sync.
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Is this the way its supposed to be?
YES...lol...Just like this pic below...Make sure that when you do this alignment of the clutch actuating arm, that the clutch lever is fully released so that the clutch will be in the fully engaged postion.

AFTER, you do this correctly, THEN follow the instructions to adjust the flower nut I already posted, The flower nut adjustment is the adjustment that avoids the friction wear...lol.

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>>that the clutch lever is fully released so that the clutch will be in the fully engaged postion.>>

It WON'T ever be fully released, if I push the clutch in and tighten the bolt. The clutch handle on the handlebars in my case in those pictures is not locked.
I'm wanting to confirm the "open" position, when the clutch lever is not pushed in.
Should it be always under pressure, or loose as in just resting against the clutch pin inside?
This is what I'm talking about when I say friction and wear.
I can't tell from the picture above if the rider has pressed the clutch handle or not, the wire is hidden.
In my first picture it is fully released, but it is not parallel with the engine. It is sticking out quite a bit. Its not so evident in the photo maybe.

>>You don't take that nut off at all.>>
The only reason I took that nut off was I thought the clutch arm was perhaps out of place. I would assume with it fully engaged and just touching the clutch pin, with no pressure, it should not stick out so much. For one thing, the spring that came with to go between the clutch arm screw and the mount is too short in this position.
 
>>that the clutch lever is fully released so that the clutch will be in the fully engaged postion.>>

It WON'T ever be fully released, if I push the clutch in and tighten the bolt. The clutch handle on the handlebars in my case in those pictures is not locked.
I'm wanting to confirm the "open" position, when the clutch lever is not pushed in.
Should it be always under pressure, or loose as in just resting against the clutch pin inside?
This is what I'm talking about when I say friction and wear.
I can't tell from the picture above if the rider has pressed the clutch handle or not, the wire is hidden.
In my first picture it is fully released, but it is not parallel with the engine. It is sticking out quite a bit. Its not so evident in the photo maybe.
This is really easy...Easy Peasy...Look at the pics below...lol.

This is the postion of the clutch lever fully released, meaning that the clutch postion on the bottom half of the motor itself is fully engaged.
This is the postion you want in order to install the cable to the clutch actuating arm.

DSCN0323.JPG


And this is a pic of the clutch lever pulled in and locked in place meaning that the clutch postion on the bottom half of the motor itself is fully DIS-engaged...This is the position you want to adjust the flower nut.


DSCN0324.JPG
 
That's not what I'm asking.

Where should the clutch arm be when the motor is engaged and running?
Should it look like my first picture on the left, or my 2nd picture on the right.
If I had a picture of the top of a 2 stroke motorbike "at rest", just parked WITHOUT the clutch lever pushed in all the way and locked, motor engaged I would be able to tell what I'm trying to understand, but I can't find anything online.

IF I knew the last picture DAMIEN1307 posted of the top of the engine, with the clutch lever parallel to the engine was with his clutch lever PRESSED IN and locked, or left OPEN i.e. engaged in normal riding position, I would be able to tell also.
But his picture doesn't show his clutch handle on his handlebars, and it doesn't show the wire either.

Look I'm sorry I'm new to this and this is old hat to you, believe me I have been looking ALL OVER THE WEB trying to find these answers without asking. I do know enough about engines to know you can wear out the clutch and ruin it if its driven in the wrong position.
So I'm dreadfully sorry but I must clarify! I am not an idiot, but I am brand new to 2 cycle engines and trying not to make a mistake! THANK YOU!!!


Moderators Note:
I posted the lever postion pics with full explaination given as to what those postions mean a full 15 minutes BEFORE you just posted this...I have no idea how much clearer I can put this.
 
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