2 cycle motor clutch: How tight, and what about rust?

jeffjot

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Maybe I'll just go to a bike shop.
Jeez. Regis Philbin was right. "Its easy when you know the answer...."
 

DAMIEN1307

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f I had a picture of the top of a 2 stroke motorbike "at rest", just parked WITHOUT the clutch lever engaged i.e. pushed in all the way and locked, I would be able to tell what I'm trying to understand, but I can't find anything online.
just parked WITHOUT the clutch lever engaged i.e. pushed in all the way and locked
If the clutch lever is pushed in all the way and locked, the clutch itself is NOT engaged.

Lever pushed in all the way and locked means the clutch itself is DISENGAGED.

A fully released, at rest, lever postion as is shown in my clutch lever pics IS the clutch FULLY ENGAGED position,

You have to squeeze the clutch lever to let off the clutch or FULLY DISENGAGE the clutch.

You have your terminology backwards here.
 

jeffjot

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If the clutch lever is pushed in all the way and locked, the clutch itself is NOT engaged.

Lever pushed in all the way and locked means the clutch itself is DISENGAGED.

A fully released, at rest, lever postion as is shown in my clutch lever pics IS the clutch FULLY ENGAGED position,

You have to squeeze the clutch lever to let off the clutch or FULLY DISENGAGE the clutch.

You have your terminology backwards here.


Thank you for correcting my terminology!!!
I am as I have explained, new to this and I apologize for using words incorrectly.
However I was just trying to determine ONE SIMPLE THING! WHERE EXACTLY IS THE CLUTCH ARM SUPPOSED TO BE WHEN THE CLUTCH LEVER ON THE BICYCLE HANDLE IS NOT PRESSED, AND YOU ARE DRIVING THE BIKE?
IS IT PARALLEL WITH THE ENGINE, OR STICKING OUT TO THE RIGHT?
If it was said earlier, I did not see it! I did not mean to offend, or to make anyone say something two times! THANK YOU!
 

DAMIEN1307

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ONE SIMPLE THING! WHERE EXACTLY IS THE CLUTCH ARM SUPPOSED TO BE WHEN IT IS ENGAGED AND THE LEVER IS NOT PRESSED?
And I already showed you...Here it is again...lol.

dscn0322-jpg.184681
 

ImpulseRocket89

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Thank you for correcting my terminology!!!
I am as I have explained, new to this and I apologize for using words incorrectly.
However I was just trying to determine ONE SIMPLE THING! WHERE EXACTLY IS THE CLUTCH ARM SUPPOSED TO BE WHEN THE CLUTCH LEVER ON THE BICYCLE HANDLE IS NOT PRESSED, AND YOU ARE DRIVING THE BIKE?
IS IT PARALLEL WITH THE ENGINE, OR STICKING OUT TO THE RIGHT?
If it was said earlier, I did not see it! I did not mean to offend, or to make anyone say something two times! THANK YOU!
Ok, I am going to jump in here. For starters, just relax.

First, let's ignore the arm position. It can be easily changed once the clutch is adjusted properly.

Adjust the clutch as Damien describe previously. This will ensure that there is the right amount of free play at the actuator shaft that pushes on the bucking bar.

Once you know for sure the clutch adjustment itself is correct then we can go back to the clutch arm on the engine. The clutch arm and the shaft it bolts to are splined, and as such can be repositioned. On almost every engine I have ever had the arm was in a different position than the last, so I often find myself needing to reposition the arm on the shaft. You simply need to press/knock out the shaft from the arm and then reposition it on the splines so that it will line up as you want it to with the engine. Now you have a properly adjusted clutch AND the arm is in the correct position.

All of your problems are solved. Any further adjustments that may need to be made will be minor and easily done with the flower nut or at the lever adjuster.
 

DAMIEN1307

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The clutch arm and the shaft it bolts to are splined, and as such can be repositioned.
He probably does not need to do this since when I saw his pic of his arm before he has attached the cable, it looked exactly like mine before applying the proper pressure to the arm to align it and lock down the cable on the arm.
 

ImpulseRocket89

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He probably does not need to do this since when I saw his pic of his arm before he has attached the cable, it looked exactly like mine before applying the proper pressure to the arm to align it and lock down the cable on the arm.
Possible, but my main point was to separate the arm position from the clutch adjustment. For some reason the arm position is being confused with a proper clutch adjustment, and I just wanted to make it clear that the clutch can be properly adjusted and the arm can be in the "wrong" position. Then, if needed, corrected.
 

Chainlube

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Possible, but my main point was to separate the arm position from the clutch adjustment. For some reason the arm position is being confused with a proper clutch adjustment, and I just wanted to make it clear that the clutch can be properly adjusted and the arm can be in the "wrong" position. Then, if needed, corrected.
Yes this is correct. The arm position doesn't matter too much and it should be under light tension. If the arm has too much tension it will prematurely wear out the actuator rod and leave you with no clutch.

I never use the cable containment screw provided, I've broke a few arms in the past (huge monkey muscles) :ROFLMAO: they split and let the cable loose.

These are better, just get the small ones for your cable. I buy a 5 pack at Home Depot.
 

DAMIEN1307

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I never use the cable containment screw provided, I've broke a few arms in the past (huge monkey muscles) :ROFLMAO: they split and let the cable loose.
I use both as you probably can see in my pic showing the OP the correct arm position...The barrel clamp lock on mine is located immediately after the arm lock.
 
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