This is now my 4th bike build and I wanted to show everyone as I go to get feedback. I was unhappy with my results on my last 3 builds. Also, I've found this forum to be a really helpful, friendly and informative community, anyway here it goes. So in excitement, I impulsively purchased the HD 2 stroke shifter kit at sickbikeparts.com I know now I wasnt fully processing that this kit is not a "jackshaft" which is fine because ultimately I didn't want the "jackshaft kit", i was wanting a "shift kit" that idea is really awesome to me. Luckily, even though i misunderstood I got the right kit,(i think). I got my "shifter kit" in the mail today. This is my 4th bike build I'm starting. I've had a blast with the other 3 builds. Thank you all to anyone that has helped answer my questions. This is the bike that I'll be installing the shifter kit on along with a new motor kit I already had. I'm undecided about which of the two handlebars to put on it. Well thanks again everyone. I really value your feed back.
 

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I wanted to post an update but I also need some advice. I have the shifter kit on it with a 17t sprocket in a 10t sprocket out and a 44t chainring on the cranks. With a 40t chainring that goes to the axle But also on the axle I have 10 speed cassette that goes all the way up to a 42t which I feel like it's not pushing the power it can with the current cassettes. I want to go smaller. I'm not sure if that will be better or not. But when I ride I know the bike has more power it just feels like it's being limited. Idk I need some feed back. Thanks.
I need to make a correction. I have a 48t driving chainring and 44t chainring going to the axle. Although, I changed the shimano cassettes to a 9 speed 12t-24t. I have more speed. But I feel like it's the carb causing my "what seems to be a almost bogging at around 3/4 throttle before wide open, When I get to 4th maybe 5th gear then bogging goes away at full throttle on 6th gear. I ride it as if it were a manual transmission in a car? That's correct to do right? Thats what I thought the point of the shift kit to utilize the little motors power better lol. But anyway maybe my carb isn't tuned right?

This photo was taken with the back end up in the bike stand. So please ignore the angle lol
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I do have a 36t I could put on with the 48t chainring. Or Would that not work? It's from my original 44t and 36 t chainring I got with my shifter kit from sbp. But when the 44t got bent i ordered two new ones which i unintentionally got the wrong sizes 44t and 48t which is what's on there now
 
Here are your gear ratios, before and after you switch from 44t to 36t driving ring.
This is compared to single left-side sprockets that most mb builders use:

First gear 18.36 to 22.25:1. Single sprocket change from strong 45-tooth to stronger 50-tooth.....
Third gear 15.3 to 17:1. Change from Strong 37t to stronger 42t.....
Fifth gear 12.24 to 15.76:1. Change from a weak 30t to a strong 39t.....
Seventh gear 9,94 to 12.98:1. Change from anemic 26t to a fair 32t.....
Ninth gear 9.18 to 11.12:1. Change from powerless 22t to anemic 27t.

Yes. Drive the bike like a manual car, but without clutch.
Quick powershifts breaks chains when the derailleur is out of adjustment.
Slow shifts and the maladjusted derailleur will forgive you and not break your chain.
Edited 6-13-20.
 
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Here are your gear ratios, before and after you switch from 44t to 36t driving ring.
This is compared to single left-side sprockets that most mb builders use:

First gear 18.2 to 22.25:1. Single sprocket change from strong 45-tooth to stronger 54-tooth.....
Third gear 15.93 to 21.8:1. Change from Strong 39t to stronger 53t.....
Fifth gear 12.89 to 15.76:1. Change from a weak 32t to a strong 39t.....
Seventh gear 10.62 to 12.98:1. Change from anemic 26t to a fair 32t.....
Ninth gear 9.10 to 11.12:1. Change from powerless 22t to anemic 27t.

Yes. Drive the bike like a manual car, but without clutch.
Quick powershifts breaks chains when the derailleur is out of adjustment.
Slow shifts and the maladjusted derailleur will forgive you and not break your chain.
Thank you that's much easier to understand. I appreciate that
 
Okay I'm ordering the 36t chainring but I'm also gonna order the 9t sprocket for the out on the Jack shaft and I want to order a dual spark plug head & a bbr tuning copper head gasket &*it's a tight fight for my plugs and I just found the short ones on sick bike parts so I wanna get those too.* I also want to order a 12v magneto, a fat belly exhaust pipe? Any suggestions?
 
Changing to a 36t AND a 9t lowers gearing even more.
First gear will be like having a 55t rear sprocket.
Third gear like a 46t gear.
Fifth gear like a 37t gear.
Seventh gear like a 32t gear.
Ninth gear like a 28t gear.
Edited 6-13-20
 
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I don't think thwre will be a problem with gearing being too low.
I had a 2.7hp Tanaka 47R engine with 8-speed shift kit on my bike. It had VERY stiff gearing, and could climb ANY grade terrain, as well as cruise in 8th gear.
My First gear was 46.36:1.
That's like having a 113-tooth rear wheel sprocket.
Next gears were like having an 87t, 77t, 67t, 57t, 50t 43t and a 37t in final drive.
Most times, I'd start out from a stop in Second gear.
So no extra clutch needed. The OP can simply start off in Second or Third gear, if necessary.
 
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Thank you. I also ordered a 23-11t cassette. And brand new rims and tires. I'm also replacing all the hard ware for my shift kit I ordered it from sickbikeparts already. Its due time my hardware is shot out. I ordered a dual spark plug head for the engine does anyone have experience with these? I'm also takin everything off my bike and gonna sand it and paint it
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One good spark plug is all you need, with two you'll need a better coil and one doesn't exists.

To strip your bike get some industrial paint stripper, works a lot better than sand paper.
 
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