2000 whizzer running poorly

2000 whizzer

New Member
Local time
7:37 AM
Jun 15, 2008
Hi,I recently purchased a 2000 Whizzer (eBAY)I was told it ran great.Come to find it did not run at all.The carb was dumping gas out the air horn, found the flywheel bolt was broken off. I took off the flywheel cleand the magents,and the mag. Exstacted the broken bolt,replaced it, and put a new 22 mm carb.on it.I also flushed the gas tank and replaced the spark plug. It ran very well at first, but now it's running very speratic. At times it runs well, and then it goes to being hard to just keep running. If i leave the throtle in just the right spot it will stay running, but if I move it at all it stalls.then for no apparent reason somthing changes and it runs great again.I've ordered a coil for it and should be receiving it soon, But I don't think that's the problem.Any thoughts what I shold be looking at?
Have you looked at and or replaced the fuel filter? It could be something as simple as that. You may also have a problem with the gas cap. I drilled a very small hole in the plastic center of mine because it was building a lot of pressure. Yours may not be allowing air to vent inward. Meaning you may be building a little vacuum in the tank and restricting fuel to the carb. Good luck and please stop by the Intro Forum and tell us a little bit about yourself. We like to know who we are helping.

2000 Whizzer

Hi you don't tell us how many miles your bike has on it? If it has been treated roughly, or been overheated badly, you may be having valve seat problems.
One I had ran well sometimes, and would barely run on the stand other times.

Hi,I have checked the fuel line filter, and replaced all the fuel lines. I also opened the gas cap to check for the back pressure problems.The bike shows 930 miles and I would say that it was not abused, but that maybe it had sat in a barn for maybe a year, or so. The man I purchased it from was older, and used it at camp grounds, and going into town. When it was running at it's best it was running strong. I had it to about 35 mph. It almost seems like a week spark or maybe a problem with the new carb. By the way, I checked and it was a 20mm, not the 22 mm I indicated before. If I'm riding the bike when it acts up, it moves me at about 5 mph,and if I give it more gas, it stalls. Then it goes back the other way, and starts to take more gas, and pulls strong. Valve seats, I hope not.That's getting over my head.
About me,I live in Michigan, and have for all 45 years of my life.I'm divorsed,and have a 8 year old son (who is asking for a motor for his bike now). He keeps me busy on weekends. I've worked in the hardware biz for 20 years now. My interst are in restoring my 63 Ford Galaxie (convertable) it's almost done now.
Valve seat problems (maybe)

HI well, I had what seemed an awfull lot like the same symptoms on the last 2 valve seat jobs I re-did.

Sadly, the WC-1 engine series has a history of this type of problem, and therefore I come to this diagnosis rather easily (and sometimes quickly).

35 MPH on a WC-1 suggests to me that it is unrestricted and that shortens the life of those engines most of the time.

I would suggest that if you pull the head, you will find the exhaust valve seat is not firmly in the barrel.

Hi, I have a 2000 Whizzer I got new .It now has 800 mi. on it and now is running good. I did have a problem with it wanting to stall when you gave it a little gas. If you gave it lots of throttle it was OK. The bike acted like this for at least 6 mo. I tried adjusting the carb. a million times. I removed the air filter cover and found the filter soaked in oil. So I left the filter out and took a test ride and it ran great. I put a new oil filter in about a month ago and it accelerates like it did when it was new. There is a hose that runs from crank case to the air filter and I think that is where the oil came from. So I removed the hose from the air filter and hooked it to a small clear round plastic bottle so I can check it .
Don Brown
Hi everbody,I got a chance to work on the bike today.I tried running it without the air cleaner, and installed the new coil. No change in the way it ran.So I pulled the head,as Mike has sugested.The valves seem to be seating. They sat only slightly higer then there seats when shut.Maybe a 1/16" or 1/32 I don't know but not much,and it was an even amount all the way around the valve.The new spark plug had carboned up pretty bad.As had the tops of the valves and the head itself.Not sure what's a normal amount.Any thoughts? Ken
Hi Ken, Sorry I haven't responded sooner, but have been having major computer problems all last week. Best way to check for loose valve seats is with a compression guage. You can also advance the camshaft one tooth to help lean the mixture on a stock WC-1 motor [turn camshaft counter-clockwise one tooth]. The compression should be from 80 lbs to 90 lbs on a stock motor, be sure to keep throttle wide open durning the compression test.
Have fun,
Hi 2000,
Your problem sounds just like the one I had a few weeks ago. I replaced thecoil, CDI & did all kinds of stuff. Finally I checked the compression & it was low. The WC1 motors have bad top ends. I bought an NE5 upgrade from Quenton & it runs great now. It was easy to install & I have lots more power. Check out my post from when I was having problems.