2004 Whizzer runs good short distance then idle only

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Martywiz

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Hope doing this correctly but wizzer runs fine for half a block then only drives idling forever, will not take throttle, spray starting fluid - gasoline, does not help but actually starts dying,runs fine and drives - at idle, has carb insulator, so its not looking for fuel ! Cleaned carb 3 times w acetone, wire thru everything, compressed air,cleaned all fuel filters,new spark plug,pulled flywheel and stator screws tight,small ground wire at battery box is clean and tight ,compression (75 lbs on old Guage) but after idling driving long distance compression is the same ! Pulled carb bowl immediately, still full of gas, valves set, compression relief is in its neutral position, put spark
Indicator at sparkplug, always showing spark but after doing all above nothing helped, because adding extra fuel trying to rev up not helping, fuel is fresh, I feel it's still somehow electrical, cd boxes maybe causing timing problem ? i unplugged the stop switch wires as well, bike has 1200 miles, 22 mm carb, lights work, then does not have battery but temped in car battery no help, i have been around engines my whole life, this is a head scratcher, this engine is just before ne engine, I received bike from deceased friend so I'm trying to get it going,
 
Martywiz said:
Hope doing this correctly but wizzer runs fine for half a block then only drives idling forever, will not take throttle, spray starting fluid - gasoline, does not help but actually starts dying,runs fine and drives - at idle, has carb insulator, so its not looking for fuel ! Cleaned carb 3 times w acetone, wire thru everything, compressed air,cleaned all fuel filters,new spark plug,pulled flywheel and stator screws tight,small ground wire at battery box is clean and tight ,compression (75 lbs on old Guage) but after idling driving long distance compression is the same ! Pulled carb bowl immediately, still full of gas, valves set, compression relief is in its neutral position, put spark
Indicator at sparkplug, always showing spark but after doing all above nothing helped, because adding extra fuel trying to rev up not helping, fuel is fresh, I feel it's still somehow electrical, cd boxes maybe causing timing problem ? i unplugged the stop switch wires as well, bike has 1200 miles, 22 mm carb, lights work, then does not have battery but temped in car battery no help, i have been around engines my whole life, this is a head scratcher, this engine is just before ne engine, I received bike from deceased friend so I'm trying to get it going,
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1999-2004 WC-1
WC-1 had problems with the valve seats coming loose in the first 1k miles
Cylinder cooling fins are small and the WC-1 overheats easily
You might have a loose valve seat - probably exhaust valve seat

What happens is, the engine will start and run fine while cold, but once it heats up
The metals expand and the valve seat comes loose, causing loss of power/compression
Once the engine cools down the metals contract sealing around the valve seat again - Repeat symptoms

If you have these symptoms you probably have a loose valve seat.

Peen around the loose valve seat to keep it in place
WC-1 valve seats are pressed in place

Here's a pic of how @mason_man peened the valve seats -
2nd pic shows peened valve seats. Use a center punch and peen around the seat
motoredbikes.com

on a wc-1 whizzer

Can you post pictures of your WC-1? Ray
motoredbikes.com motoredbikes.com

Whizzer corrected the valve seat issue with the NE-5, The valve seats are cast in place and the cly cooling fins are bigger
Many who had a WC-1 upgraded with a NE-5 top end kit

BTW your compression should be 90 psi - 130 psi
 
Could an electrical part have been disconnected then put back with the wires in reverse order?
 
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