212 Predator build

[autoCorrekt]

I just swapped carbs on the 212 predator (non hemi). The hole in the valve cover, is that to relive any pressure on the crank case like a PCV valve? Or does it help with anything such as pulling the oil to the head? It did have a vacuum line attached that lead to the intake before the stock carb.



Edit: Changed title to include all my questions that may come up for this. I think it would be nice to keep them together in case someone has the same in the future.

 

[wheelbender6]

You are correct that it relieves blow by pressure.
-You can attach a tube to it and add a small breather to the other end. You could also put the other end of the tube in a catch can, so that oil doesn't condense and drip (motocrossers would vent there fuel tanks into a catch can like that in the good ole days).

 

[autoCorrekt]

Awesome. This is my first 4 stroke bike build but it's really not that much different than building a car from the frame up. I actually feel familiar with what I'm doing unlike the 2 stroke I did.

 

[autoCorrekt]

Another thing. With the torque converter, it came with two sprockets to choose from; a 10 tooth #40/41chain and a 12 tooth #35 chain.

My rear sprocket is one of many that I purchased for the two stroke and decided to move to this build as well. The problem is that my chains that fit the rear sprockets (410) don't fit the sprockets supplied with the torque converter.

I found the chain/sprocket size chart but I don't do well with charts. I need to actually see it in front of me to really click. But..... If I were to take some of the width off the 10 tooth sprocket, would it fit the 410 chain?

Or what would y'all recommend?

 

[FNTPuck]

Another thing. With the torque converter, it came with two sprockets to choose from; a 10 tooth #40/41chain and a 12 tooth #35 chain.

My rear sprocket is one of many that I purchased for the two stroke and decided to move to this build as well. The problem is that my chains that fit the rear sprockets (410) don't fit the sprockets supplied with the torque converter.

I found the chain/sprocket size chart but I don't do well with charts. I need to actually see it in front of me to really click. But..... If I were to take some of the width off the 10 tooth sprocket, would it fit the 410 chain?

Or what would y'all recommend?

I would just replace your rear sprocket for a proper #41 chain sprocket and run the 10t. The 2stroke kit sprockets are thin and like most parts cheap quality so not always perfectly true or even stamped correctly (I have one that came defective and won't even mesh properly with the stock chain it came with!). As a bonus, the #41 chain(right) is stronger, cheaper, and more easily sourced while being smaller and lighter than the popular 415H(left). Can get a whole 10ft of decent quality #41 for like $20 at tractor supply, which is plenty of length even for a stretched build with second jackshaft chain.

 

[autoCorrekt]

I would just replace your rear sprocket for a proper #41 chain sprocket and run the 10t. The 2stroke kit sprockets are thin and like most parts cheap quality so not always perfectly true or even stamped correctly (I have one that came defective and won't even mesh properly with the stock chain it came with!). As a bonus, the #41 chain(right) is stronger, cheaper, and more easily sourced while being smaller and lighter than the popular 415H(left). Can get a whole 10ft of decent quality #41 for like $20 at tractor supply, which is plenty of length even for a stretched build with second jackshaft chain.
View attachment 89793

Could the #41 use the same sprocket as the 410? I purchased 32T and 36T steel sprockets that are sturdy enough that I'd trust them and they bolt up to the hub adapter that I have. I shaved just a smidgen off each half of the adapter so they would clamp better into the wheel hub, worked wonders to keep it from budging any.

I was looking at the chains in a local feed store the other day. Dirt cheap on the #41.

And here is the motor so far...