5-7HEAVEN
Well-Known Member
His brackets look like they're made in high school shop class.
I think he farms out the gearboxes.
I think he farms out the gearboxes.
212cc Engine Reversal With Shift Kit
- Thread starter 5-7HEAVEN
- Start date
5-7HEAVEN
Well-Known Member
I checked out my bike's frame, and where to install
the gearbox.
The box will stick out ahead of the clutch.
It depends how the sprockets align with the clutch and bottom bracket.
That'll determine how far the gear box sticks out.
Maybe 2 inches towards the right.
The sprockets would face the engine, parallel to the clutch.
A 1/2" thick aluminum plate could smother the side cover and extend under the exhaust port.
(If I had the skills, the plate would REPLACE the side cover.)
The gearbox could be mounted vertically onto the plate, under the exhaust port.
Its sprockets could then be chained to the clutch above and the chainring below.
Sort of like the letter "K" in reverse.
I'll cut it out in cardboard and mock it up onto the 212cc engine.
A friend has a Staton chain-drive bicycle.
I'll ask if I can borrow the gear box for the mock up.
the gearbox.
The box will stick out ahead of the clutch.
It depends how the sprockets align with the clutch and bottom bracket.
That'll determine how far the gear box sticks out.
Maybe 2 inches towards the right.
The sprockets would face the engine, parallel to the clutch.
A 1/2" thick aluminum plate could smother the side cover and extend under the exhaust port.
(If I had the skills, the plate would REPLACE the side cover.)
The gearbox could be mounted vertically onto the plate, under the exhaust port.
Its sprockets could then be chained to the clutch above and the chainring below.
Sort of like the letter "K" in reverse.
I'll cut it out in cardboard and mock it up onto the 212cc engine.
A friend has a Staton chain-drive bicycle.
I'll ask if I can borrow the gear box for the mock up.
MotoMagz
Active Member
Really not the impression on got. I’ve only bought hub adapters.His site looks impressive I guess..lol
5-7HEAVEN
Well-Known Member
I've bought a lot of stuff from him too.
The brackets look like he made them with a chop saw and a drill press.
It'd look much better if he round off/radiused the ends.
The brackets look like he made them with a chop saw and a drill press.
It'd look much better if he round off/radiused the ends.
5-7HEAVEN
Well-Known Member
I’ve been working on my design for the Staton gear box install.
It SEEMS fairly easy to do.
There are 4 threaded holes on the engine’s side cover, directly behind the clutch.
A thin steel plate, maybe 1/8" or 3/16" thick, and 7” x 10” wide can be bolted onto the engine at this point.
If necessary, the bolts can be countersunk to clear the lip of the spinning clutch bell.
The side cover is fairly flat, but might need minor machining for the steel plate to lie flush.
On the right side, the plate can be bolted to tabs welded to the bike's bottom tube.
This can also serve as a second mounting point,
from the engine to the bike.
The Staton gear box should mount vertically onto the steel surface,
under the exhaust port and a few inches to the right of the clutch.
Beside the box's mounting brackets, two of its outer bolts can be replaced with longer studs and fastened to the steel plate.
That'll result in a very solid attachment for the Staton gear box.
The uncertain part is aligning the gear box's sprocket to the clutch's sprocket.
Thankfully, there is a lot of adjustment.
The gearbox's main shaft can be ordered to be on either side of the gear box.
The box itself can be shimmed/spaced outward for chain alignment.
If necessary, the clutch can be moved out slightly, with spacers/washers.
The clutch can also be flipped 180 degrees.
It shouldn't be as tricky, aligning the gear box sprocket with the chainring.
A wider bottom bracket cartridge or spindle can be installed for the chainring sprocket.
The right crank arm clears the clutch, and a cover can be fabricated to protect the right foot.
The 212cc engine looks good, mounted with the clutch on the right side.
The cylinder head tucks closer into the space near the head tube.
The exhaust port is FAR away from the rider.
There are aftermarket pipes for the exhaust to be in this position.
With the engine in the reversed position,
there's more space behind the engine for a utility box.
I'll mock it up and take pics without the gearbox tomorrow.
It SEEMS fairly easy to do.
There are 4 threaded holes on the engine’s side cover, directly behind the clutch.
A thin steel plate, maybe 1/8" or 3/16" thick, and 7” x 10” wide can be bolted onto the engine at this point.
If necessary, the bolts can be countersunk to clear the lip of the spinning clutch bell.
The side cover is fairly flat, but might need minor machining for the steel plate to lie flush.
On the right side, the plate can be bolted to tabs welded to the bike's bottom tube.
This can also serve as a second mounting point,
from the engine to the bike.
The Staton gear box should mount vertically onto the steel surface,
under the exhaust port and a few inches to the right of the clutch.
Beside the box's mounting brackets, two of its outer bolts can be replaced with longer studs and fastened to the steel plate.
That'll result in a very solid attachment for the Staton gear box.
The uncertain part is aligning the gear box's sprocket to the clutch's sprocket.
Thankfully, there is a lot of adjustment.
The gearbox's main shaft can be ordered to be on either side of the gear box.
The box itself can be shimmed/spaced outward for chain alignment.
If necessary, the clutch can be moved out slightly, with spacers/washers.
The clutch can also be flipped 180 degrees.
It shouldn't be as tricky, aligning the gear box sprocket with the chainring.
A wider bottom bracket cartridge or spindle can be installed for the chainring sprocket.
The right crank arm clears the clutch, and a cover can be fabricated to protect the right foot.
The 212cc engine looks good, mounted with the clutch on the right side.
The cylinder head tucks closer into the space near the head tube.
The exhaust port is FAR away from the rider.
There are aftermarket pipes for the exhaust to be in this position.
With the engine in the reversed position,
there's more space behind the engine for a utility box.
I'll mock it up and take pics without the gearbox tomorrow.
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Sidewinder Jerry
Well-Known Member
I once sent David Staton a drawing of a gearbox that could be mounted to a vertical shaft engine. The output drive shaft would then power a shift kit. The setup was for a mid frame mount.
5-7HEAVEN
Well-Known Member
Like this?:
www.staton-inc.com
Staton Inc
1" Output Shaft 16.07 to 1 reduction gearbox for Vertical Shaft Engines
www.staton-inc.com
Sidewinder Jerry
Well-Known Member
Wow very similar but the driveshaft came out of the side of the box instead of the bottom. It allowed the engine to sit on top of the gearbox instead of the side. Thus reducing the width of the setup. Making a mid frame mount more practical. It had a worm gear mounted under the second reduction gear and the driveshaft had the second part of the worm gear in the back of it.
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5-7HEAVEN
Well-Known Member
More measuring.
Using a large straight edge proved that the face of the 212cc engine side cover. won't interfere with the 1/8" thick steel plate.
The plate bolts onto the side cover behind the clutch. The other end bolts to the bike's bottom tube.
Originally, I figured that tabs needed to be welded to the bike's bottom tube, to secure the steel plate.
Then I realized they could be bolted on, by using pipe or muffler clamps,
either directly or with simple L-brackets.
The Staton gear box will bolt onto the steel plate on the right side.
There will be more than 1/4" clearance behind the clutch and the plate.
My old 226mm bottom bracket cartridge with SBP aluminum crank arm and freewheel barely clears the engine's shaft(PTO).
On the other side, the SBP crank arm hits the fan housing.
That won't work.
Using a large straight edge proved that the face of the 212cc engine side cover. won't interfere with the 1/8" thick steel plate.
The plate bolts onto the side cover behind the clutch. The other end bolts to the bike's bottom tube.
Originally, I figured that tabs needed to be welded to the bike's bottom tube, to secure the steel plate.
Then I realized they could be bolted on, by using pipe or muffler clamps,
either directly or with simple L-brackets.
The Staton gear box will bolt onto the steel plate on the right side.
There will be more than 1/4" clearance behind the clutch and the plate.
My old 226mm bottom bracket cartridge with SBP aluminum crank arm and freewheel barely clears the engine's shaft(PTO).
On the other side, the SBP crank arm hits the fan housing.
That won't work.
Attachments
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5-7HEAVEN
Well-Known Member
Good news!
The SBP steel offset arm and 226mm cartridge clears the clutch by 1".
On the left side, the pull start was eliminated. The big hole is covered by a 1/4" clear plexiglass plate.
The left-side crank arm barely slides past the plexiglass.
The engine can be shifted slightly for more clearance.
More bad news.
Even tho the right-side steel offset crank arm clears the engine, it's not threaded for a freewheel.
The freewheel is needed to attach the sprocket, which will connect by chain to the Staton gearbox.
Besides, without this crank arm freewheel, the pedals would spin crazily with the engine running.
Good news
I know that all popular freewheels have 1.37 x 24 right-hand thread.
SBP right-side ALUMINUM crank arms are threaded to accept these freewheels, as a part of their popular shift kit.
I also know that many bottom brackets(BB) have exactly the same thread pattern.
Thankfully, the bicycle's left side BB has a removable steel insert with 1.37 x 24 threads.
THAT SAME INSERT CAN EASILY BE WELDED ONTO THE STEEL RIGHT-SIDE CRANK ARM!!
Doing so will allow the standard freewheel and sprocket to attach to the SBP offset crank arm!!
I've never heard of this being done before.
I'm gambling that it DOES allow freewheel and sprocket to work with a steel offset arm.
I'm also gambling that it doesn't break.
The insert wasn't engineered for this purpose.
Then I'll have excellent clearance and not have to modify the BB.
Attachments
The SBP steel offset arm and 226mm cartridge clears the clutch by 1".
On the left side, the pull start was eliminated. The big hole is covered by a 1/4" clear plexiglass plate.
The left-side crank arm barely slides past the plexiglass.
The engine can be shifted slightly for more clearance.
More bad news.
Even tho the right-side steel offset crank arm clears the engine, it's not threaded for a freewheel.
The freewheel is needed to attach the sprocket, which will connect by chain to the Staton gearbox.
Besides, without this crank arm freewheel, the pedals would spin crazily with the engine running.
Good news
I know that all popular freewheels have 1.37 x 24 right-hand thread.
SBP right-side ALUMINUM crank arms are threaded to accept these freewheels, as a part of their popular shift kit.
I also know that many bottom brackets(BB) have exactly the same thread pattern.
Thankfully, the bicycle's left side BB has a removable steel insert with 1.37 x 24 threads.
THAT SAME INSERT CAN EASILY BE WELDED ONTO THE STEEL RIGHT-SIDE CRANK ARM!!
Doing so will allow the standard freewheel and sprocket to attach to the SBP offset crank arm!!
I've never heard of this being done before.
I'm gambling that it DOES allow freewheel and sprocket to work with a steel offset arm.
I'm also gambling that it doesn't break.
The insert wasn't engineered for this purpose.
Then I'll have excellent clearance and not have to modify the BB.
Attachments
image.jpg
176.5 KBViews: 0
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