38cc friction drive idle problem.

Colbias18

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Mar 20, 2018
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I recently bought and installed a bikeberry 38cc friction drive, everything works fine except that the roller starts spinning on start up even after playing around with throttle cable and I cannot figure out how to get it to stop spinning on startup, perhaps an air leak?
 
If the drive roller that sits on the tire spins while the engine is idling:

1.) your idle may be too high causing the clutch to engage. You can try the adjustment screw first or just disconnect the throttle cable altogether to rule this out.

2.) Your engine may not be mounted properly to the friction drive allowing the clutch to contact the bell housing when it should be in rest position. With the engine off and the drive unit raised off of the tire, try spinning the drive roller by hand to see if it is binding or if it makes a scraping noise. It should not. If it is, loosen the engine bolts just enough to allow you to shift it around until it doesn't scrape or bind while you spin the roller by hand, then re-tighten and re-check.

3.) Your clutch may be damaged.

4.) Your roller or bell housing is bent or out of round. Number 3 and 4 will require close visual inspection with the engine unbolted from the drive unit.

These are the things I would check first. Hope this helps.
 
So it turned out that the screw you use to lift or lower the engine on the tire was making the clutch contact the bell, i do believe the whole mechanism is a bit flawed that way since you almost need to put a bar in between to keep it from binding and if not when you lower it on the tire the bell is making more contact than the rest on that side which could damage it, you could keep it loose to avoid that but then there is not much keeping the roller down on the tire other than its weight. i will look into a work around.
 
The Bikeberry drive unit is rather flimsy. I started with the 38cc kit and had numerous problems with it. I switched to a Staton Inc drives and have had no more issues whatsoever.

Try cutting a small diameter piece of electrical conduit to place in between the channel so that the tension rod doesn't over stress the drive channel.

Staton kits come with a long sleeve that does this perfectly.
 

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yes the mount is rather flimsy and i knew that before i purchased it. I do however like the engine it feels rather powerful from the couple times i have rode it.
I knew i wouldnt need a whole lot of ccs as i dont way to much I might just buy a different mount sometime.
 
The Huasheng 38cc is truly a decent engine. However that 1-1/2" roller that BB uses is too large of a diameter for that one though to really enjoy the engine to its potential. Use a .930" or 1-1/8" diameter if you buy a Staton drive kit and you will love it.
 
Yeah I was able to get it tight enough so it stays in place even though its still contacting the bell, so i will ride it until the bell breaks then ill throw on a staton mounting kit.
 
Also i agree when i first saw the roller it is way to big, probably has a good amount of tourqe but id prefer a smaller roller.
 
The Huasheng 38cc is truly a decent engine. However that 1-1/2" roller that BB uses is too large of a diameter for that one though to really enjoy the engine to its potential. Use a .930" or 1-1/8" diameter if you buy a Staton drive kit and you will love it.
I did find a cheap fix for it, i drilled two holes beneath the back screw that lifts up and down and put a carriage bolt in the new hole and put a bunch of nuts on the inside and loosened them as much as i could to force it to stay open so it wont bind, works like a champ now.
 
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