4-stroke running in

[Happy Valley]

This topic has been debated endlessly on about every forum. From what I've read on motocycle forums is that it's actually heat cycles that break an engine in - going from full cold to normal operating temparature and back again.

--John

I believe this to be the case as well.

 

[Mountainman]

I have read of using a piece of fuel line attached to a kitchen baster to change the oil

that's not a bad idea - but - I wonder if it will suck out all of the little metal particles out ? Read on site somewhere - guy hanging his MB with a rope so as to drain oil. It seemed just turning my MB over backwards worked pretty well last oil change - doing another oil change this morning - going to be sure that - I am getting it all out - that last bit at most times - contains the metals.. Ride That Thing - Mountainman

 

[Irish John]

that's not a bad idea - but - I wonder if it will suck out all of the little metal particles out ? Read on site somewhere - guy hanging his MB with a rope so as to drain oil. It seemed just turning my MB over backwards worked pretty well last oil change - doing another oil change this morning - going to be sure that - I am getting it all out - that last bit at most times - contains the metals.. Ride That Thing - Mountainman

I tried Fetor 56's idea of using a powerful rare earth magnet 10mm dia. x 3mm thick. It fits into the recess on the Honda drain plug like a glove and fits OK onto the HS as well. It is so powerfull that it pulls the mtal sediment onto the plug - especially on the first running of your motor. It works beautifully but the metal dust sediment is more noticeable from the Honda than the HS motor and I reckon this must be because the Honda is more finely engineered and so creates a bit more metal dust on first useage. I bought 20 of these magnets cos they are cheap and very good. To drain the oil I tilt the bike. I don't think turning it upside down will be good for the motor.

 

[HoughMade]

If you turn an engine like a Honda GXH50 upside down, oil will indeed run out the fill hole...and into the valve cover...and through the crankcase vent into the carb housing...and other places you don't want it.

Besides, them there intelligent engineers installed a drain plug on these engines...and the cloners were smart enough to copy that feature.

Because of the potential of mess, I am thinking of installing a hose barb in place of the drain plug, then attaching a piece of fuel line to the hose barb permanently, attaching a clip to the seat tube that holds the under end of the fuel line up (and it will be plugged). Then, when i change oil, all I have to do is unclip the end of the hose, pull it to the side, take the plug out and drain the oil.

Seems like I've seen this idea somewhere before...oh yeah, that's basically how its done on a Harley Sportster (see below).

 

[Scottm]

Hough, That reminds me of when I had a boat with an I/O motor. Chaning the oil was the worst, let alone all the oil that stayed in the hull because the drain hole was too high. Someone made a petcock with a hose on it. The petcock replaced the drain plug. When you wanted to change the oil, just run the hose out the boats plug hole and turn the petcock. Never a drop of oil on the hull again.
Basically doing waht you said but plugging the hose at the motor instead at the end of the hose.

 

[HoughMade]

I've thought of doing it both ways. I would prefer it that way, but there may be a space issue- I'll have to see.

 

[bill wight]

I have read of using a piece of fuel line attached to a kitchen baster to change the oil

thats what i use,,works great,,