40 mph but need re gearing

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Some of what your saying here makes no sence,you say that your doing 40 mph but then you state that your doing 60-70 kph on flats? 70kph is 43mph and on your setup requires 10,200 rpm then you say it 4strokes above 50 kph wich is only 7,000 rpm so explain to us how you manage to make 3,200 rpm after it starts 4 stroking and shaking?I think you better double check your claims,it's not that it cant be done but what you describe and claim dont add up.


Boss clocked me at 40 mph at 7:35am in the morning, range rovers Don't lie and the speed trap making a right onto 320th clocked me at 38 mph so I'm not lying.

No car be side me it's probably not even four stroking it's probably too high rpm resulting in a hint of detonation in relation to timing she don't vibrate as bad Vs the stock tek pk80 at 6000 rpm

Mz piston/wristpin/rings, high quality better port matched bgf cylinder.

I also run uni foam filters I also have tested the K&n but it sucked sob ND I lost 10-30kmh in performance power so I threw it back in a bag and put the uni back on.

Speed came right back.

K&n I wouldn't touch with a 10 foot pole
uni is by the best protection even in rain that 10-30 kmh is the loss at rain weather only.



Meanwhile K&N made me lose 10-30 Kmh while dry outside.

So check your math.
 
If you're looking for smoothness at high rpm you should balance the crank for high rpm, that means reducing a lot more of the reciprocating mass than just a light piston. How light is the MZ piston anyway? Pistons are only aluminium so it takes a lot of material removed to make the reduction in mass. You should be able to lighten the upper part of the connecting rod without having to remove it from the engine if you're careful. You can get a good reduction in the reciprocating mass by lightening the upper part of the connecting rod because it's steel. Then you can drill extra balance holes in the crank cheeks but obviously be careful and do all this correctly.
The other thing that makes the engine feel smoother at high rpm if you have a stock CDI is an offset magnet key (retarded) but this has a detrimental effect on the power at very low rpm. If you use a good aftermarket CDI you might be able to find a good balance of both. I wonder if the four stroking you're talking about is actually backfiring from overly advanced spark timing at high rpm...


I think it's over advanced Vs four stroking just sounds weird after a certain speeds achieved it no blat blat blat eeeeeeeeeee sound which is associated with 4ting it more of a detonation sound line a mild knock at higher speeds.

I feel it needs just a mild tiny dab of retard.
 
Just do the math for the rpm you want at the speed you desire. Simple as that. Every combo is different, hell, engines from the same manufacturer vary.
 
I think it's over advanced Vs four stroking just sounds weird after a certain speeds achieved it no blat blat blat eeeeeeeeeee sound which is associated with 4ting it more of a detonation sound line a mild knock at higher speeds.

I feel it needs just a mild tiny dab of retard.
Mild knock lol, hammering the poor bearings 166 times every second. I think you better put a notch in that key today! Luckily its about the easiest mod to do. :)
 
Mild knock lol, hammering the poor bearings 166 times every second. I think you better put a notch in that key today! Luckily its about the easiest mod to do. :)


Yeah I try to lay off the throttle but hey at least she's a tek a full China block would have died even without that high rpm.

So which side to notch on if the chain rotates counter clock wise to the drive line wouldn't that mean the engine rotates clock wise I can't remember unless they both roll counter so if the engine rotates counter,

I would need to file off from the left hand side of the key.
 
Yeah I try to lay off the throttle but hey at least she's a tek a full China block would have died even without that high rpm.

So which side to notch on if the chain rotates counter clock wise to the drive line wouldn't that mean the engine rotates clock wise I can't remember unless they both roll counter so if the engine rotates counter,

I would need to file off from the left hand side of the key.
Mine is not made from the stock key, as you can see, but the notch goes on the right hand side to retard the magnet.
 
If your "tek" is seeutek it is full on cheap Chinese junk. I have 2 and a Zeda which is much better Chinese junk. They are all Chinese lol
 
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