40 series is BIG :o

[Deleted member 26224]

This is all I got for now. The damage pics are on my computer at home. I had to redrill the spoke holes because the ones on this hub were huge! Like, 5-6mm. It had a huge crack at the brake lining/hub shell like it was dropped on that side.

I can’t remember the bearing size but they do look sealed in the pic, so 12mm should be an easy swap. It did not have an M on it. Also the drum brake was a 90mm. So maybe it was not a MB hub at all. But that’s what it said when I got it.

300ccs with a cvt id be looking at 14mm axles minimum, or at least upgradable to 14 in case 12mm breaks. It would take a while but maybe not.

I was offering the wheel for the hub. But it does have different length spokes iirc. I know for a fact the Michelin 110/90 will fit and that is almost 22”.

There’s just no good option. Cuz nobody puts pedals on a 300cc motorbike

 

[The_Aleman]

Input I've had from friends runnning the CVTs, they have noticed considerable power loss and belt wear. I wish you the best in your endeavors, even if I don't agree with you philosophy about having the "quickest 1/8 and 1/4 mile motorized bicycle". You do some cool stuff, but 300-something CC bikes is not MaBs, IMHO. You could be dethroned by any whiskey-tango nutwit throwing a motorcycle drivetrain on these, which has already been done over 100 years ago and begat motorcycles. All due respect.

 

[Spare_Parts]

If you start parting out the Tomos let me know a price for the engine. Bee looking for one for a while now. Want to build a super reliable daily

 

[FNTPuck]

This is all I got for now. The damage pics are on my computer at home. I had to redrill the spoke holes because the ones on this hub were huge! Like, 5-6mm. It had a huge crack at the brake lining/hub shell like it was dropped on that side.

I can’t remember the bearing size but they do look sealed in the pic, so 12mm should be an easy swap. It did not have an M on it. Also the drum brake was a 90mm. So maybe it was not a MB hub at all. But that’s what it said when I got it.

300ccs with a cvt id be looking at 14mm axles minimum, or at least upgradable to 14 in case 12mm breaks. It would take a while but maybe not.

I was offering the wheel for the hub. But it does have different length spokes iirc. I know for a fact the Michelin 110/90 will fit and that is almost 22”.

There’s just no good option. Cuz nobody puts pedals on a 300cc motorbike

Ahh thanks for sharing. The 90mm are the Puch ones, and while they are larger internal diameter the internal walls and supports look smaller and weaker...no clue which is actually stronger than the other though.

Input I've had from friends runnning the CVTs, they have noticed considerable power loss and belt wear. I wish you the best in your endeavors, even if I don't agree with you philosophy about having the "quickest 1/8 and 1/4 mile motorized bicycle". You do some cool stuff, but 300-something CC bikes is not MaBs, IMHO. You could be dethroned by any whiskey-tango nutwit throwing a motorcycle drivetrain on these, which has already been done over 100 years ago and begat motorcycles. All due respect.

No offense taken, to each his own. It is true the CVT will have higher drivetrain loss than a centri or plate clutch, along with a ton more weight and takes up a lot of space, but there is no real top end difference assuming your belt is properly aligned and in good shape. The trade-off though is tons of TQ and the equivelant of an additional 3:1 reduction at takeoff which is what I need for accelerating this ~125+lb beast. Plenty of youtube videos show back to back swaps and the acceleration is dramatically improved with the same max speed - in the 30 series you can actually increase top end since it has a 10% overdrive at max speed that the symetrical 40series does not. The downside is the mid range - a rolling hit from say half throttle is not as powerful with the TQ converter as the centri. Keep in mind I am not using the common 30 series setup - this is a massive 40 series that is rated to 18hp and has handled 25+hp motors on much heavier gokarts (with maybe accelerated belt wear, but that is a cheap wear item that doesn't bother me...not like I'll be doing hundreds of miles and long trips on this thing.

IMO if a dude manages to get a motorcycle drivetrain on a bicycle with functional pedals, more power to them! I'm running into a lot of crazy little issues with "only" ~20hp but I know the TQ spike from the big motor and CVT is going to be downright brutal and I'm sure stuff will break...that's part of the game. Breaking stuff is finding out the weak points so you know where to improve!

With the recent explosion in popularity of the dirt cheap 212s, I'm thinking of partnering with someone with a CNC setup to design a bulletproof dual sprocket hub for these bigger power bikes. It would use a modified version of the much larger and better stopping Tomos 105mm moped brake plate(vs 80mm Moby and 90mm Puch) that has the center axle portion cut out and rewelded for 14mm axles and be sized for a quality cartridge bearing. Moped brake pads and sprockets would bolt right up giving tons of options for gearing and braking.

If you start parting out the Tomos let me know a price for the engine. Bee looking for one for a while now. Want to build a super reliable daily

I'll give you first dibs if I decide not to use it. It's pretty dope. No good pics but here is the front and can see part of the back next to my badass 90's GT Dyno. Thought about putting the whole front end with headlight fairing and speedo on the Hyper but the rake would be too dramatic with the 26" rear since the stock Tomos tires are like 21" OD or something small. Maybe one day I will put a 24" rear and then do it lol.