44T Sprocket with disc brakes

[ImpulseRocket]

Yep, as the two before me said, you can run a 203mm rotor with a 36T sprocket and then a rotor spacer between them. You can also use rotor shims to make small adjustments if your frame requires it.

As Robe also said, it is possible with a 40 tooth, but it does require a little more effort to get the clearance needed. That is the same setup I ran on my last bike. The other option is to put the caliper between the two frame tubes, which is the one place the chain doesn't ride. This buys extra clearance.

 

[robe]

I forgot how much fooling around it took to make it work. Lots of shimming and splitting hairs.

I tried the disc brake adapter except it will unscrew itself if power is applied. Works great if it is only braking force.
We were talking about pinning it to the hub, can't remember where but here is a picture on another bike.

 

[Wrench]

can't ya just use JB weld when ya screw it on ?

If ya ever need to take it off, apply heat

 

[robe]

can't ya just use JB weld when ya screw it on ?

If ya ever need to take it off, apply heat

I don't think JB will last very long without some mechanical fasteners. There is a lot of shear force from both directions.

 

[Wrench]

I don't think JB will last very long without some mechanical fasteners. There is a lot of shear force from both directions.

Yup, JB weld and set screws

 

[cloakedvillain]

The strongest jb weld has a tensile strength 5.5k psi, the benzomatic aluminum brazing rods have 33k psi, and for reference mild steel has 60-70k psi tensile strength. These are all the absolute limit before just breaking entirely, what you would need is realistic numbers on torque during braking, and whether or not there is enough area in the chosen material to handle it without exceeding the range of elastic deformation.

Alternatively there are flip flop hubs with a right hand regular freewheel thread and the other side has right hand threading for track cogs which are almost the same as a freewheel thread, except for a smaller diameter, left hand threading for a lockring, which has little teeth so that it is tightened when the force on the cog is counter clockwise: like fixie riders skidding or maybe an engine bump starting.

There are moped hubs with brakes on the right hand side. There are hubs with a left hand drum brake and sprockey and a freewheel thread on the right hand side. I want to say 103. I am also seeing some 11mm axle grimecea hubs both left hand sprocket, right hand drum brake. A 10mm axle would slot right in to a bike frame but some file work to the drop out can be done.

I know you want disc brakes but it gets difficult to use the same wheel and frame without machining or welding experience. Your cheapest option is going to be a good set up on rear rim brakes and disc brakes on the front wheel.