5 dollar garage sale find

Discussion in '2-Stroke Engines' started by Quadranut, Oct 21, 2013.

  1. Quadranut

    Quadranut Member

    What do you guys think of this and yes it runs.

    Attached Files:

  2. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

    crankcase is a unified type, ie its one big casting intergral with the oil and petrol tank.

    basically useless...depending on how you want your setup to look.

    if you dont mind having the tanks there or want to cut them off...

    it may run...but for how long at a time? give it a good days work as a saw first ;)
  3. Quadranut

    Quadranut Member

    Hey HeadSmess

    Yeah she runs good too. About 4 hours of cutting. No smoke after the she simmered down to a gentle rumble, 5 to 10 seconds after start up. Response time on the throttle is good, no stumbling. Of course if you force it thru the log it's gonna bog down even with a new sharp chain.

    Haven't taken the plastic off yet ( tomorrows project ) But I'll bet this is gonna be interesting, but I did shine a light down both of the tanks and they are not connected to the motor except for a couples of screws here and there. Throttle cable, choke, and kill switch, I believe, that I can work out for myself ( get ready for some Q's yall ).

    I did see some old pics here about how to mount one up as friction drive ( gotta search IE history again to find em ) Kudos to SrDavo and his buddy and Jpilot's gear calculator
  4. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

    my apologies. you are correct.

    a quick google search yesterday came up with completely different cases to what i found just then.


    this looks like its the go, actually. that there be 255 written on it, right where an engine would normally go....

    score :)

    friction drive is the simplest and most suited to em. strip off everything but carb and exhaust, fit roller, nice lever setup to engage disengage, done :) no starter, no shrouds, no nothing but engine.
  5. SunkyWorks

    SunkyWorks Member

    Hi Quadranut

    Reading the RC sites, most of the newer Poulans CDI's are molded in the plastics and the Homelites are not, making the
    Homelites easier to strip. The big brother to your saw, the 46cc has carb mount issues but the CDI is not in the plastics.
    Some leave the plastics on for a friction drive.
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2013
  6. Quadranut

    Quadranut Member

    Home from work taking beer and tools to the garage to start stripping a possible 46 CC 2 cycle ? LOL Na I don't think so she is more like a 33 or so and I'll be happy with her. BTW sorry for not mentioning the saws estimated age before bout 14 years and that one is from confirmed source.
    AKA the one that bought the dang thing.

    And Heads ? I like yer thunkin and I thunkin the same

    Ride safe

  7. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

    noone cares about my engine :(

    just put it back together again last night, gotta go find new crank seals and make a carb adaptor.

    mcculloch 10-10 overbored to 55cc or summink :)

    and bottom (should) be a talon 42cc. if you have something that resembles this under all the plastic... you got a bargain. (this was a freeby warranty job cus the old guy kept filling it up with oil)

    the throttle cables and airfilter etc are usually the annoying parts.

    Attached Files:

  8. SunkyWorks

    SunkyWorks Member

    My mistake, the CDI is separate from plastics:

    parts for the Poulan PP255:

    These guys seem to think 40cc:


    "That saw is the little brother to the Poulan Pro 295 which is 46cc"

    I just bought two (mid 70's) McCulloch Pro Mac 55's (57cc) for $10 each, and got both running.

    Got a newer McCulloch Timberbear 55cc for $15, needs carb work.

    Also working on my 20" BMX with lift clutch, friction drive.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Oct 24, 2013
  9. darwin

    darwin Well-Known Member

    Seems to me if you can get those saws working and cutting they'd be worth something to flip, take the cash and buy what you want.