$5 Home Depot headlight revisited

Discussion in 'Electrical' started by Sgt. Howard, Nov 9, 2012.

  1. Sgt. Howard

    Sgt. Howard Member

    That tutorial is by Pilotgeek- his work was the inspiration for my rectifier... I simply bought equivelant componants from electronicgoldmine.com and paid a fraction of what Radio Trash wants... you will have to order $10 or more from these people, but if you get LEDs for tail/brake lights (total 6 reds) as well as resistors (#3.50 buys 100) you can meet this number easily- if this goes sticky, I need to re-label one photo where I note the wire for the tail light as 'brake light'.
     

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  2. littletinman

    littletinman Member

    Yeah, Pilot geek had a great tutorial, just like yours. You guys should collaborate and maybe patent or something. Thank so much for taking the time to make a GOOD tutorial anyone can follow. I am interested in seeing how you wire the tail light. Do you just use another eveready or do you have a different light you use for it?
     
  3. littletinman

    littletinman Member

    What did you use for a tail light? Do you think the tail light work if it's over 6 volts? I was thinking of picking up one of those red lights they have in the odds and ends section of Advance Auto Parts.
     
  4. Big Red

    Big Red Active Member

    All ya gotta do is put a 6V led (bulb) in the light case you buy. It's not the fixture thats using the voltage, it's the bulb.
    fatdaddy.
     
  5. Sgt. Howard

    Sgt. Howard Member

    power and tail light

    sorry I'm late- no internet where I am staying, so I gotta do the photos and truck to a local hippie/organic/ co-op where they leave the wi-fi going 24/7 for guys like me that have no other access- pretty cool, except I'm sitting under rudimentary shelter in the rain
     

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  6. Sgt. Howard

    Sgt. Howard Member

    There is it for the power supply- housing should be simple to figure
     

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  7. Sgt. Howard

    Sgt. Howard Member

    Tail/brake light

    Here's ONE way of many I've discovered that won't break the bank or require fancy tools- for some reason, the image with all the explanations of materials did not upload, so I will tell you- 1.5" PVC endcap with a short piece of schedule 40 pipe in that size, NAPA reflectors, adhesive, about @.25" diameter and the yellow carcass of the flashlight that was the doaner for the headlight.
     

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  8. Sgt. Howard

    Sgt. Howard Member

    More thereof
     

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  9. Sgt. Howard

    Sgt. Howard Member

    etc.
     

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  10. Sgt. Howard

    Sgt. Howard Member

    more on this later, but this is what I have so far- mind you, the PVC ring is a chink of the 1.5" tubing- it will fit inside the endcap. typically I drill a 1/4 inch hole in the center of the endcap for mounting with a 1/4"x 3/4 long carriage bolt... you want to do that before you put this thing into the cap... you also want to drill a hole for your wires ahead of time as well. Next transmission I will detail the finished product along with mounting apparatice
     

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  11. Sgt. Howard

    Sgt. Howard Member

    Actually, most LEDs run 2.5 to 3.4 volts- you have to ballast them with about 100 ohms of resistance to run them on 6volt
    AW CRIPES!!!! I forgot to ive the specifics on the LEDs I used! er... next transmission then...
     
  12. Big Red

    Big Red Active Member

    YEAH. What Sarge said.
    Big Red.
     
  13. littletinman

    littletinman Member

    603944_10151104580197413_542035873_n.jpg

    Here is the light attached the the bike. It works wonderfully! Fantastic at night and good for day riding. I like that it's focused!
     
  14. Sgt. Howard

    Sgt. Howard Member

    Mounted light

    Littletinman... dude... that is so cool...
    Well, here goes more of the same topic, down to the wire on the tail light. Understand that TIS particular unit is going on a bike where the light is on if the engine is running... BUT, the brake light will require the brakes applied as well. Next project will show a cheap fussy to make switch that clamps onto a caliper brake- those of you running coasters will have to tap your front brake to get the light.
     

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  15. Sgt. Howard

    Sgt. Howard Member

    Here's the last two- in the second picture, there's another bike in the background with a 'Beehive" clearance light lens used on a similar base, attatched to a bead cut on a lathe... fussy bit of work if you can do it, but looks totally cool. Problem is, it's for an incandecent (filiment) bulb, so they are getting harder to find...
     

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  16. littletinman

    littletinman Member

    How did you assemble the tail light?
     
  17. Sgt. Howard

    Sgt. Howard Member

    The picture on post # 30 shows the light assembly- the outer ring is 1.5 " PVC schedule 40, about 1" worth. I took an endcap for the same and drilled a 1/4 inch hole in the center and a smaller hole (for the wires) off to the side. This I shortened just a bit, then painted with KRYLON FUSION (I recomend this highly for PVC) and mounted a 1/4" x 3/4" carriage bolt through the center hole from the inside so the threads poke out the hole... this will be how you mount it. Crush the shoulder of the bolt head into the hole and you will not have it turn on you when you tighten the nut that holds it. Now thread the wires through the smaller hole, place a small socket over the threads to protect them and mount the whole operation into a vice- crush it together (make sure it doesn't cant one way or another) and drill holes at 180 degrees in the lens- drill smaller holes to accept #6 Pan heads x 1/2", mount lens and cut your strap iron to make a mount... pretty self-explanitory, actually... unfortunatly, my camera boogered the memory regarding those images
     
  18. littletinman

    littletinman Member

    Sorry for the need for more clarification, but where is the lens coming from? The red part? And how are you mounting the LED's inside the housing?
     
  19. Sgt. Howard

    Sgt. Howard Member

    OK- those red reflectors in the NAPA blister package, you remove the backing from one as shown in the photo and drill two holes in a north/south orientation (or 12/6) and drill two corrosponding holes into the face (combined edge ) of the endcap and tubing of the unit... two #6 panhead screws of 1/2" length are then used to secure the lens to the housing. The LEDs are 5mm diameter- you see where I drilled six holes to accomodate them? Given the softness of the yellow plastic from the $5 flashlight's body, once I cut that disk to fit and drilled the slighty undersized holes, I mearly shoved the LEDs into the holes and let friction hold them. Soldering the wires as I did finished the deal as well as the hot glue filler that locked the disk into the ring of tube as well as locked the LEDs to the disk.... and insulated the whole thing to boot. Then the ring was shoved into the cap via benchvise without glue... it is NOT coming apart anytime soon, I assure you... after I painted it, of course
     
  20. littletinman

    littletinman Member

    Do you run a negative wire from the tale light to the frame or back to the head unit?
     
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