53cc 4 Stroke Clutch Adjustment

  • Thread starter Deleted Member 4613
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All those kind of clutches that I ever saw had spring that you could change out and have the clutch engage at a different rpm. Is that an adjustment screw in the side? What happens if you crank it in?
 
I have no idea what the screw is on the side. Just didn't
touch it when modding, but I'm curious what it is too.
 
I have read that those screws cover a spring and washers that hold the shoes disengaged. I think you can vary the tension on the shoes by adding or subtracting washers.

I want mine to engage earlier, so that the clutch doesn't slip so much at lower speeds. I'm not too wrapped up in acceleration.
 
Mine engages so early I have to hold the bike from
moving forward a little even at idle and I have the
idle set very low. I may order an extra one of these
and take it apart.
 
I'm having a hard time imagining a spring because it would have to pull the 3 pads toward the center. I'm wondering if there is some kind of cam that actuates the outward movement ? How does one adjustment screw effect three pads ? Or, is there an adjustment screw on each pad we can not see ? We definitely need to see one disassembled. Was it a reputable source you read this from jerry ?
 
49ccClutch.png


It's hard to explain, but the orange screws hold the blue friction shoes by the compression of the green springs. I guess you can add compression by inserting washers between the screw and the spring. (I was lazy and only showed one of the three shoes.)
 
Did you disassemble the clutch and confirm your explanation here?
 
I took my clutch off and discovered there is an allen head machine screw through the center of each of the 3 pads. I started to unscrew one and then chickened out. Figured with my luck something would either fly into space, or be difficult to reassemble. Thanks Jerry for taking the time to draw this picture. How simple. I definitely didn't use all my brain cells in attempting to figure this out. Adding washers will make it engage at a higher RPM. I really like this clutch because it is much easier to fine tune the lock up point and there is a near maximum pad surface......... and you can substitute springs if need be.

WARNING ! Make damn sure the added washers do not cause the spring to stack (which means totally compress). There's a good chance the pads will not touch or apply full pressure to the drum if this occurs.
 
Would like to see pics of a disassembled clutch, springs and all. It looks
like the bolt would have to bottom out every time to the same
height, or maybe a shorter bolt would work for higher rpms.
 
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