5kW hub drive motor! (Washing machine DIY E-bike)

[Vikingimike01]

Oh, oof. I was planning on wrapping it up with electrical tape though, multiple times. Guess I'm making a blast shield too then

I wanted to wire them both in series, and paralel (Saw it on how to make an ebike battery)

Like this :

EDIT: I may have been wrong, about doing this in both paralel and series. Not sure though.

If yes, would need more of these. Probably some paralel, some series. I'd end up cheaper with Lead acid car batteries, so I may go with those smaller ones, 5.5 ah, 12v.

 

[bike4life]

Hello!
I know they are AC induction motors, I said it somewhere else in a different thread. Now, these motors in Europe need 240 volt, not 120. Also, they are universal, and run off of DC too, wich I have tested with a 12 volt battery, It's running fine.

I'm not going to get a generator, because I have a charger at home, and wouldn't really ride for long, and I can come home, and charge it. I would get one, but, I don't have that much space on the bicycle.

Anyways. I'm scrapping this project, as I'm getting an 1800w, 48 volt, gokart engine, that has a stand-like thing, that I wanted to weld on the rack on the back, or in the middle of the bike (Over the pedals somewhere)

I was thinking lead acid batteries first, but they are big. Not sure yet. I wanted to order a li-ion battery pack from ebay, 48 volt ones, for 37.5 amper engines, are quite expensive. Like 2 months of pay for a person here. And I don't have a job, as I'm in school.
Then I thought, I'll get induvidual cells, from Germany, (Close to me, and probably good quality) and get a solder, and make it myself. I read, that I also need a charge control thingy. IDK how those work, so yeah.

Oh yeah well in Europe they are universal ac and dc. True inductions will not work off dc.

 

[Vikingimike01]

Oh, yeah. It has a capacitor start. Someone said it's induction though.

Anyways. To recap, I made up my mind.

Motor I'll get : https://www.ebay.com/itm/1800W-48V-...i-E-Scooter-Quad-Buggy-E-Bike-US/123595199537
1800 Watt, 48v DC, 37.5 amper hours.
I'll use 60v DC, to produce 2250 watts.

Batteries I'll get for it: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Portable-D...814232?hash=item1cc3aa7bd8:g:meYAAOSwtgFbj18-

12v DC, 20,000 mah
5x of these in series, to produce 60v

This video:
It's about the motor I chose, and when she/he (can't decide..) presses the throttle, the max draw is 29 amps, but then it goes down to 9 at max speed. At average, I'll say this draws 18 amps.

What do you guys think? Any better options for batteries? Good idea to weld the sprocket on? And the motor? And can I place the motor on the back rack? Will be using 44 tooth sprocket, and 11 tooth on motor.

 

[bakaneko]

Okay, I looked at those batteries too because I like the modularity of 12V nominal to create 24-72V systems. And, from reviews I gathered online at Amazon and etc they are CRAP. LIKE CRAP CRAP CRAP. I am not sure how much I researched it but yes 12V modularity is something I truly want to work eBikes towards but these batteries. YOU NEED TO DOUBLE TRIPLE CHECK REVIEWS and YOUTUBES.

Also be suspicious when the battery does not advertise max continous discharge current, max peak discharge, max charging current. It means they are crap generic lithium cells. Maybe okay for low power consumption application but for a 2000-2500W discharge might be too much for them.

Also, you still need a controller and throttle. You cannot simply use a dimmer switch or have no controller.

 

[bakaneko]

That motor after a controller and throttle is probably pretty close to a 1500W hub kit such as the one below. Why not just get that and a 52V battery 15-20 aH battery. This will give u 25-27 cruise and top speed of 35 mph and just simply replace the wheel and add torque arms to both sides of the bike and a lil wiring and you are done. For the battery, it depends on your location but I heard good things about em3ev or you can try to find a regional builder on ebay but double check their cells and discharge ratings.

Here from the em3ev site you can see that they tell you the cells and discharge unlike that link you provided, which I am almost certain lies on rated capacity and has no battery specs meaning its for low low power consumption.

"
Recommended Max Discharge Current for each Cell Type of the Em3ev Jumbo Shark 52V Ebike Battery:

• Panasonic PF: ~29A Continuous, 38A Max Burst Current
• Samsung 30Q: ~38A Continuous, 55A Max Burst Current
• LG HG2: ~ 44A Continuous, 55A Max Burst Current
• Samsung 35E: ~25A Continuous, 34A Max Burst Current

"

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-B...m1ecfe5de1b:g:1ikAAOSwFSNcB6ql&frcectupt=true

https://em3ev.com/shop/em3ev-52v-14s5p-jumbo-shark-ebike-battery/

I skimped on the batteries in my case I am using scooter battery packs (36V in series to 72v) from older cell tech samsung s25r (or is that q?) and while they are decent since its Samsung and cost like 50% less I am probably paying for that in the long, long run of the pack life. But, for me that isnt as important since I am building a gas generator hybrid.

I mean you can go your route if you want to monkey around and build stuff but if you just want to get out and ride ASAP just get the hub and prebuilt battery and enjoy the season.

 

[bakaneko]

That's 42 amps but only at 3.6 volts. In a series volts go up but amps stay the same. When wired in parallel amps go up but volts stay the same. I use different lithium batteries for various RC stuff but went with agm batteries for my wife's e bike. They were $15 bucks each. Her bike is 36 volt so there are three of them on there and they are 12amp capacity. I was told they wouldn't work well but they actually work awesome. I haven't fully discharged them but I've went 15 miles on a single charge and still had power left.

Yeah, I remember your post. You got a really nice sweet deal on those batteries. I mean economically you are coming out ahead of a lithium equivalent. That being said, your bike is like 500W. I think for 500W or less SLA are not bad. Your battery is 36V * 12aH = 432W at 1C, Again, this is fine for going like 12-16 mph and batteries will perform fine. I think the lithium over SLA argument comes in once you start pushing to 23 mph+ where the amount of power W requires starts to get real large due to wind/air resistance. At those levels, I don't think the SLA can handle it. I have 1200wH battery and on my 3kW ebike I can go from 0 to 30 mph in gut wrenching speeds. The power required to get there is probably close to 3kW peak even though 30 mph cruise is around 1-1.2kW to maintain. If you were to draw 3kW from a 1200wH SLA or around 3C your SLA will get rekted so bad not to mention that it be heavy as hell. I can do this continously over and over again even with not the newest lithium cells and be fine.

 

[Vikingimike01]

Hello! Well, the battery packs are too expensive for me. I can't really afford those to be honest. Like 3-4x as much as the ones you called "crap crap crap". Would it then just be better to buy the lead acid ones? I really can't afford the packs they sell.

SCRAP THAT: 4 commenters said on multiple videos, these packs only able to handle 0.4amp. so.. no idea

Would this work for a throttle: https://www.ebay.com/itm/22MM-Unive...218585&hash=item23b40293f2:g:idIAAOSw8zRcQYjZ

I prefer the twist throttles like for a motorized bike. However, I can't find any that is 48v+
I don't mind if it's chinese or from hong kong. If it breaks, it breaks. Mostly because of shipping cost is 5-6x higher from anywhere else...

Do I also need a speed controller for this?

If yes, would this work: https://www.ebay.com/itm/72V-2500W-...232039?hash=item3f892aef67:g:S3cAAOSwEzFZ3t3c

 

[Vikingimike01]

Found a different battery pack, states too many things. https://www.ebay.com/itm/12v-9ah-Ba...rentrq:c5f9996a1690ab6aaa9d4d40fff664d0|iid:1

It says Lead Acid in the title, but nowhere else. Not even in the specs.

I was thinking to get the 15ah ones, 5 of 'em.

 

[bakaneko]

what exactly is your budget?

 

[Vikingimike01]

Right now... like.. Just enough to buy the motor. Then after that, the other stuff, eventually.
Would those batteries work tho? It states a lot of info.

Continuous discharge current:
15/20A Battery model – 10A

Instantaneous discharge current :
15/20A Battery model – 20A

I'll have 5 in series to increase the voltage.