60V 3000W Fat Tire eBike - Big Battery Build 3.4 kwH 100 mile+ Range

[bakaneko]

Bike is here and so the build journey begins. I went on a 7 mile manual ride of it and down a steep hill with speed. One good thing is that the road grip is strong; I have no fear of leaning deep and at speeds with this bike versus a conventional 1.8 inch tire. I can also pedal with no hands with little effort to balance. Of course downside is that the wide tires equals more rolling resistance and hence slower top speed. I think that is fine as I had a couple instance on my current ebike where I almost wiped out due to wheel spin or imperfections in the road. Also, these are knobby tires for now and smooth road tires might help with speed (2-3mph) later. Two key decisions are the battery and placement and engine type.

Battery and placement
It will be EV batteries. I hope to get the cost to about $150 kwH with the BMS. This is also part of my grander vision on our electric future. But, I made a cardboard mock up of a 2 and 4 kwH battery currently available. If I cut the top tube and make the steel plumbing pipe rectangle, the width of the 4 kwH battery (7") should be just within the pedal cranks with about 1/2" to spare for the box. If I do a single 2 kwH or stack 2x 2 kwH on top of each other I should be well within the pedal cranks. But, one thing I notice is that I might be able to get away of putting two of the batteries on either side of the top tube and getting wide pedals. This will avoid time needed to cut the top tube and save the bike incase I fFF up. I also need to look into the battery more and will do it and buy this weekend.

Engine...
I think I want PAS. The thing is that PAS is a requirement in most states. I have to be conscious of fake pedaling atm with my ebike when I see a cop. I want to avoid that by always fake pedaling. I do not think the Cyclone has variable PAS even though there is a wire for it. And, I want the kit to be expandable to eventually make full use of the amps the battery can deliver though to me 35 mph top speed is fine. And with PAS it has to be variable PAS, there is no use for PAS if it is set to max all the time. That is most definitely a recipe for death especially with high power ebikes.

Next steps
- Definitely have to buy a center kick stand to replace the flimsy side kickstand. It will help with the installation as well.
- Gonna research the battery build a bit more and buy the battery by this weekend. I might start with 2kwH to learn and then hopefully buy another 2kwH later.
- I need to keep looking for the right engine/motor. I need variable PAS with half throttle. And, I dont want to order from China and wait a billion years.

 

[Member 30571]

Nice !!!

 

[bakaneko]

Sent a bunch of emails out with requirements to vendors. Leafbike got back to me right away with pretty much what I am looking for... 60V 2000-3000W nominal with PAS levels. Now onto the battery!


https://www.leafbike.com/products/b...h-snow-fat-tire-bike-conversion-kit-1231.html

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

Okay I'm still screaming at my phone "Cut the downtube and get some steel bed frame in there!"

I got bed frame on my mind because I have it here for a stealth exhaust pipe. The bend in my bunk bed exhaust tubing for the lower belly gave me the association to the kink in my (and most) moped downtube. ☝

 

[CrazyDan]

*Peeps out of hiding*

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

I'm gonna get some moisturizer on these sore over-sanitized hands, put the music back on and stop touching the screen.

Let the others talk about the modification of frames by the nearby (but still outside of your home mechanic workshop) welder / fabricator who wont want chromed steel parts.

Will be interested in whether the ideal wheelbase for a SUPER HEAVY pure electric gets discussed.

Never dud fog to sleep this week.

 

[bakaneko]

okay, so i think i know what i am going to do. i am going to make 4x 14.4V cell modules with LG Chem 3.6V 60aH 180A pouch cells. I can get one for $25; these are suppose to be never cycled but with tab imperfections.

So, I will do 4X 4s1p setup for 4 X 3.6V X 4 X 60 = 3.4 kwH at 57.6V (60V) at $400. This will be a 100 mile bike at 30 mph (1000W) no pedaling. So, I decided to do 4s 12V cell modules instead of 16s 57.7V as this is my first time doing this and I do not want to f*** up bad. I think 12V is managable and it is also necessary to fit in the bike frame and top tube without cutting the top tube or any modifications. I should be able to fit 2x 12V modules in the frame and 2x on top of the top tube either stacked or layered. This will also allow room for the controller in the frame (hopefully).

Gonna just figure this out a little more and reference some folks then buy it. Oh, also, I will be using a 60A BMS which means I will be limiting the battery (180A) but 60A * 60V = 3600W which is more than the hub controller. But, it does mean if I want to do a 5000-7000W upgrade in the future, I will need to redo it. But at that point, I figure I will just get one 180A BMS or something for all cell pouches. It will be something like this below.

what u guys think

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

Think I needn't worry about you. You got this. Tensai neko is wringing the mongoose's neck without breaking it.
Think more replies from others would be nice too!

 

[CrazyDan]

I think you can set up the batteries to fill in the triangle and not spill over on top of the crossbar. Have a pack going down the seat tube, downtube and under the cross bar, then filling in the extra space would give a lower center of gravity. Batteries are heavy, try to put them as low as possible.

 

[bakaneko]

yeh that is true. i think i can mount them under the down tube. but i like the look of something on the top tube. it looks like a gas tank on a motorcycle and i can put some cool angles on it to look futuristic. so it comes out to 16.6lbs on the top tube. that aint that bad...