QUOTE="bakaneko, post: 521334, member: 25521"]
okay, finally got them all done. i will redo taping and insulating a bit later once i size the battery in the frame. i will have to stack two of them and then put the metal cover on rather than have each one have a metal plate and plastic frame. next is getting the motor. i think ill just go with another cyclone but this time i will do PAS and get a brake cut off sensor attached to a fake brake as kinda of a clutch. note the cyclone does not have variable pas levels but you can set ONE pas level. so kinda this scenario.
* if i need to weave between cars or tight areas, i will pull in the "clutch" that cuts of motor and just pedal safely
* from a stop, ill let the clutch out and it will go like maybe to 23-25 top speed
* if i need have a slow start, ill just pull in the clutch
* if im safe from the cops and open road just hit the throttle for the full juice
i def think i need this clutch thing so i can peddle in slow situations.
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It sounds trickyl!
I'm relieved you've had some experience with the same motor you'll use on your new 3kW e-bicycle build, and similar if not quite exactly the same controls.
I would be interested in having, on one of my own bikes, the
ability to access such very high power.
I would like to even try actually
using the very high power it has access to; but only very occasionally, in a very safe place, like a track or closed road; but I don't have a great deal of skill with the sensitive throttles, and I understand that instantaneous torque, and very high power-to-weight ratio, is another
potential hazard.
My PAS on my emo-ped is simply an on/off switch controlled, or rather triggered, by the hall sensor on the crankset. It is too simple. It is laggy. It is much more laggy shutting off!
The use of e-brake levers to shut-off motor power is easier to master than the technique of actually just shutting-off (ceasing to pedal).
There is no way that I can reduce the bike's power use to extend my range using the p.o.s. PAS on my emo-ped. It has much better range by gingerly twisting the twist throttle and not pedalling at all, than it does by trying to use the PAS while in the lowest or any motor power setting.
I could disconnect the hall sensor temporarily or try to block it for those longer trips, perhaps. There are other downsides to that too, of course!
The three power settings are the same three power settings whether using the PAS to control them or the twist throttle. I don't know any of the technicalities of how they achieve their effect.
The twist throttle on my emo-ped is much more friendly than the PAS pos.
If i can modify my emo-ped to be more like your 3kW e-bicycle it would be much better, I'm sure.
