60V 3000W Fat Tire eBike - Big Battery Build 3.4 kwH 100 mile+ Range

One 10s brick is done. Not bothering with balance leads for now till I get some more plugs in the mail (did the bottom 4s). Gonna take a while for a pack this size to go out of balance. All cells measured 3.49/3.48v.
Sounds like you are getting it done the proper way.
 
okay, i got the bb, motor, and controller positioned and installed. the negative terminal on the motor is a bit rusted so i need to clean that up a bit. i tested the motor and alignment with the old 36v battery and it seems fine. the motor is a bit off centered but its not that off. so i think its fine. you would think the second time it be easier to install...

next is the battery install. it will be two blocks in the frame and two blocks on top. there are two design challenges here and a minor one. the two are it has to be removable not super easy but easy enough that I can move the batteries inside without taking apart the whole battery mounts. the other is the top batteries is just gonna sit on the top tube and will rotate around that axis. so i think i will just make a large shim between the bottom and top batteries to prevent the top from rotating. the bottom one is going to be a tight fit so it would be solid. the other minor item is the battery box. I think i am going to use 1/4 white particle board paint one with orange accents. i need to reflect heat as much as possible. so at minimum i will do particle board -> packing foam. or, i might do particle board -> packing foam -> particle board.

lots of irl stuff to do too. so, i hope to get a good part of the battery mount done by monday and into next week finish the battery box and spiffing it up. i hope to get it all done by next weekend. :unsure:

Also gonna leave the handle bar as is for now. and the PAS will wait until Luna has their three speed switch in stock. It looks as the throttle and PAS might not work as same time so the three speed switch will be key.
 
Well, I got the battery mounted and did a small test ride. I need to clean the terminals as I think it limited some of the performance (50% SOC). It is together though and ride-able. It is hard to pedal a heavy fat tire bike with a 44T pedal cog, LOL, even in 1st gear. :ROFLMAO:

Things left to do. I hope to have it ready for next week all spiffed up.

- Clean the negative terminal on the controller; it is rusted and I feel is messing up the performance of the bike.
- Install a white main color/orange decal battery enclosure/box so it doesnt look like I am riding with a bomb. Gonna try to go for a Ford GT Baby Blue and Orange with white look or homage
- Weather proof the connections and clean up wires
- Cut 2-3 inch per side off of the handle bar to increase aero
- Buy and install speedo, headlight, rearlight and rear rack
- Charger

 

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Clean up battery terminals electrolyte compound will prevent corrosion... 👍👍👍

Whats the weight of these battery packs when there bunched up...

What a neat ways to make a battery ... 👍

Are those individual cells brand new or recycled...

Dang,,, I'll have to start thinking electric bike this winter...

And,,,

Can a person separate the battery packs too place in different area of the bike,,, or other words,,, fitted down low in the V of the frame,,, that way there out of the way,,, and the mass of weight is kept lower 🚴‍♀️💨

My old school fold up bike is a wet noodle,,, dangerous too ride at any speed... Ha

The batteries are suppose to be never cycled, cosmetic defects. A YouTuber used them and tested the capacity at 1.5kW on a 6kWh pack he built and it was 100% capacity. The batteries are about 25lb for each module so 50lb in total. Yeah, the way I did it maybe over kill but this is a 16s pack in total (60V nominal) that I separated into 4x 4s packs with their own 4s 60A BMS. The top tube has 2 and the triangle has 2. This is necessary as there is no other way to fit it on the bike with good balance unless you cut the top tube and do a whole fabrication/assembly thing. Apparently, you dont even need the BMS. Since the packs are separated I do like once a month probably check each pack and equalize their voltages if there is a difference. Ideally, you just build one 16s pack with a beefy bms. I might add another 4s on there and get it to 72V since I got the chargers and everything but she is a big girl atm.

I cut the handle bar and probably removed a bit too much... It is like a bobber now! At least I am aero... :ROFLMAO:

The retail ebikers range are suspect at best and require pedaling at slower speeds. There is no replacement for displacement but in this case capacity. Total cost is about $350 for bike, $450 for batteries and bms, $100 to remove the Cyclone motor from my old bike and onto new bike (some cosmetic as I broke the screen on throttle of old bike but it still worked). Probably another $20-40 for building battery enclosure and nice alien type headlights, mirrors, and rear light.
 
Okay, im lazy. i was gonna make particle board battery box but instead I just took $2 worth of white foam poster board and hot glued something together. the whole thing comes off the bike easily and is held by two small bolts in the front. i am thinking that i just some how put a water proof layer of spray paint/plastic dip/??? that can make this water tight and also remove the seams. any ideas? Then, I will paint the final colors (orange and white strip)?? I also removed the crappy Mongoose seat for my good one and migrated over the rear rack too. i got the charger as well; its a 2A charger and lol it did 0.5V in 1 hour of charging at 50% SOC. This battery is huge.

 

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okay, a bit of a stupid connundrum here, but im decided to use plasti dip layers to water proof the foam battery cover shell and maybe a racing strip accent on top. i wanted this bike to be an homage to the Ford GT Mustang (classic blue and orange). I cant decided between orange top and white mid or vice versa. And, there are other plasti dip colors too (grey, red). The other consideration is to make it as non conspicuous as possible; I want to avoid the "HEY LOOK AT ME" coloration. There is a dark blue that I think would work perfecting to kinda not draw attention, but its not stock and I have to order 6 cans...

So, what you think of the coloration below. Grey would be least conspicuous and the red probably the most. I dont want to do black as I want to avoid heat absorption as much as possible though I think the foam acts well as a temp insulator.
 

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Pretty much done. This thing is so damn fun. I go my normal Dollar Tree store run and barely lose any voltage! I might tidy up the wires a bit more and add a handy panel and faux leather on top of the styrofoam plasti dip cover atm. I am not 100% satisfied with the current cover appearance and covering.

 

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Pretty much done. This thing is so damn fun. I go my normal Dollar Tree store run and barely lose any voltage! I might tidy up the wires a bit more and add a handy panel and faux leather on top of the styrofoam plasti dip cover atm. I am not 100% satisfied with the current cover appearance and covering.


Have you ever thought about reproducing that in fiber glass? A couple of styrofoam blocks are you're almost there.
 
Have you ever thought about reproducing that in fiber glass? A couple of styrofoam blocks are you're almost there.

No, you are right. I've always made my battery boxes from wood as it is just easiest for me and never dabbled in learning how to do fiber glass. This is a good time to learn and I can use the current battery cover to cruise in the interim.
 
No, you are right. I've always made my battery boxes from wood as it is just easiest for me and never dabbled in learning how to do fiber glass. This is a good time to learn and I can use the current battery cover to cruise in the interim.
If you go the fiber glass route, fiber glass doesn't like any square inside corners. You need a radius to all those. If you get a few chunks of close cell styro-foam (the blue or pink stuff) and glue them together, then you can just sand them into the shape you want. PM me if you need a few more tips and tricks.
 
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