Sumsloppymeet
Active Member
i really wanna just get some 26" but im not really sure which dirrection to go my sprocket adaptors are for 1" hubs any suggestions on a good set of rims im putting em on a kent 700c
700c wheels and a good riding replacement?
- Thread starter Sumsloppymeet
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FurryOnTheInside
In Memoriam
Depends on what type of brakes you'll run, what type of riding you do, what tyre widths you need it to fit and how careful you are.
Mavic D521 are a good choice for 1.5"-2.3" tyres and will accept rim brakes. They used to be a great choice for downhill MTB racing, back in the day, and will handle road riding and some gravel easily I reckon, even at motorised speeds.
These rims can be found NOS, or used if you want a complete wheel.
There is also a D521CD with a ceramic braking surface. 32 or 36h
http://www.mtbr.com/product/tires-and-wheels/rim/mavic/d521.html
Halo SAS are a good choice for 2"-3" tyres and will handle off road riding. Their intended use is freeride and jumping. They can be used with rim brakes but you might want to sand the braking surface in case there's a bump at the join as these are generally used with a disc brake.
You can find these rims new, and new or used if you want a complete wheel. The spokes used on the Halo SAS (machine built) wheelset aren't the best IMHO, so try to find one that has been hand built, which you can often recognise by their having bright stainless steel spokes rather than black. 32, 36 or 48h
There are hundreds of 26" rims to choose from, but these are two that I have and I'm keeping.
Mavic D521 are a good choice for 1.5"-2.3" tyres and will accept rim brakes. They used to be a great choice for downhill MTB racing, back in the day, and will handle road riding and some gravel easily I reckon, even at motorised speeds.
These rims can be found NOS, or used if you want a complete wheel.
There is also a D521CD with a ceramic braking surface. 32 or 36h
http://www.mtbr.com/product/tires-and-wheels/rim/mavic/d521.html
Halo SAS are a good choice for 2"-3" tyres and will handle off road riding. Their intended use is freeride and jumping. They can be used with rim brakes but you might want to sand the braking surface in case there's a bump at the join as these are generally used with a disc brake.
You can find these rims new, and new or used if you want a complete wheel. The spokes used on the Halo SAS (machine built) wheelset aren't the best IMHO, so try to find one that has been hand built, which you can often recognise by their having bright stainless steel spokes rather than black. 32, 36 or 48h
There are hundreds of 26" rims to choose from, but these are two that I have and I'm keeping.
INTP_ty
Active Member
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Why. You can put 29” “fat” tires on a 700c rim. The bead is the same. Don’t listen to these internet experts. A 700 wheel will work.
My 29” wheels are just as fat as your standard balloon tire. I rock 700c wheels. And I didn’t even lace them with thicker spokes.
Oh. Lots of peeps do 650B conversions if your seat stays can handle them. ...if you switch from your 700 wheels.
Srs you’re gonna screw up the frame geometry. Be sure to watch your crank arms going around a turn. That 5mm is a lot
My 29” wheels are just as fat as your standard balloon tire. I rock 700c wheels. And I didn’t even lace them with thicker spokes.
Oh. Lots of peeps do 650B conversions if your seat stays can handle them. ...if you switch from your 700 wheels.
Srs you’re gonna screw up the frame geometry. Be sure to watch your crank arms going around a turn. That 5mm is a lot
Timbone
Well-Known Member
There are varying widths on 700C tires and rims. I am one of those who is used to 700C x 23 bike racing wheels. What I and others suggest is to not try any kind of narrow tire configuration - they will go POP!
Had never even thought of the 29er size being compatible with 700C configuration. If it fits, yeah, that will do! Just assure minimal width of, say, 1.75".
I, too, am a fan of the SAS Halos. They are up to the challenge of motorizing. My next build will be Halos laced with 12 gauge spokes.
Had never even thought of the 29er size being compatible with 700C configuration. If it fits, yeah, that will do! Just assure minimal width of, say, 1.75".
I, too, am a fan of the SAS Halos. They are up to the challenge of motorizing. My next build will be Halos laced with 12 gauge spokes.
FurryOnTheInside
In Memoriam
I have fitted 26" wheels to my (supposedly 700c) cx/gravel/touring frame which will be my second mb build.
Yes, it lowered the axles; but I jacked up the front end by switching the 700c rigid fork for a 26" real suspension fork.
With a 4" travel fork that's about 3" after sag, but it's for the smaller wheel so it's about 2" longer than the original fork, so it raises the bottom bracket by about an inch, leaving the BB the same height above the ground as before I changed the wheel size. Except now the tyres have more surface area for traction, and more air volume for riding over rough ground.
Determine the widest tyre width that will fit in the frame. Then choose the rim width that will work well with that tyre. For me that was a 2.2" Halo Twin Rail tyre on a 30mm (36mm external) wide Halo SAS rim.
A tyre should be between about 1.4 and 2.2 times the width of the rim. Being conservative here means not getting blow outs from the tyre bead failing to lock into the rim bead, and not having the tyre roll off the rim bead when the tyre is punctured and deflates quickly before you have any chance of stopping.
A Halo SAS rim is 30mm wide so it will be ideal with a 2.2". The very narrowest tyre that should be fitted is a 1.6" , and the widest a 2.6" but it will take a 3" knobby tyre because the knobs make up a lot of that 3"
On small tyres you can notice even very small differences in rim width easily.
I took the original wheels from the 700c cx/gravel/touring bike and used them on my first build, a 700c road MB.
It previously had 15mm (17mm external) width rims but they were a little too close to the limit with my 32mm tyres. I noticed a big difference with the way the tyre fits the rim now I have the 17mm (19mm external) rims. They're much happier.
Yes, it lowered the axles; but I jacked up the front end by switching the 700c rigid fork for a 26" real suspension fork.
With a 4" travel fork that's about 3" after sag, but it's for the smaller wheel so it's about 2" longer than the original fork, so it raises the bottom bracket by about an inch, leaving the BB the same height above the ground as before I changed the wheel size. Except now the tyres have more surface area for traction, and more air volume for riding over rough ground.
Determine the widest tyre width that will fit in the frame. Then choose the rim width that will work well with that tyre. For me that was a 2.2" Halo Twin Rail tyre on a 30mm (36mm external) wide Halo SAS rim.
A tyre should be between about 1.4 and 2.2 times the width of the rim. Being conservative here means not getting blow outs from the tyre bead failing to lock into the rim bead, and not having the tyre roll off the rim bead when the tyre is punctured and deflates quickly before you have any chance of stopping.
A Halo SAS rim is 30mm wide so it will be ideal with a 2.2". The very narrowest tyre that should be fitted is a 1.6" , and the widest a 2.6" but it will take a 3" knobby tyre because the knobs make up a lot of that 3"
On small tyres you can notice even very small differences in rim width easily.
I took the original wheels from the 700c cx/gravel/touring bike and used them on my first build, a 700c road MB.
It previously had 15mm (17mm external) width rims but they were a little too close to the limit with my 32mm tyres. I noticed a big difference with the way the tyre fits the rim now I have the 17mm (19mm external) rims. They're much happier.
Sumsloppymeet
Active Member
well right now ive got two 26 mags on it to see how it handled and other than it being a tight squeeze with the knobbie tires so i had to remove the stock front and back brakes they just werent big enough to wrap around the tire and hit the rim properly so i fashioned up a home made front disc brake adaptor and put my unused rear bengal helix hydraulic brake setup on the front of it and it works pretty dang good even in the rain seeing as it was pouring all day today here in florida but it handled great other than im still having issues i believe with an annoying airleak at my sha clones intake clamp area i can get it to run great if im doing anything between 5-30mph but then she starts popping and bogging out it seems as long as i keep a steady half pull on the throttle she will rip it easily past 35-40 but it starts the 4 stroking again ive got a 70 main jet in it right now ive got a mikuni 18mm showing up tomorrow so im hoping itll act differently with the new carb
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