70s schwinn speedster project.

[Sidewinder Jerry]

The tach next to the speedometer is the way to go with a shifter bike.

 

[cloakedvillain]

Linking this here to keep the "documentation" in one place. Post in thread 'The grubee rear rack is not very good.' https://motoredbikes.com/threads/the-grubee-rear-rack-is-not-very-good.63889/post-634577

 

[Pezz]

I have been contemplating a similar build using a Sturmey Archer 3-speed hubed rear wheel.

Was thinking the 2 stroke power pulses would put less strain on the driveline, compared to a 4 Stroke.

Will be watching this with interest

 

[Sidewinder Jerry]

I have been contemplating a similar build using a Sturmey Archer 3-speed hubed rear wheel.

Was thinking the 2 stroke power pulses would put less strain on the driveline, compared to a 4 Stroke.

Will be watching this with interest

So when you're talking about using a SA 3 speed IHG, are you going to run a shift kit with the IGH in the rear wheel or use the IGH as a jackshaft transmission? Do you already have the SA IGH or were you planning to get one?

 

[Pezz]

Was going to run it in the rear wheel. . . . .

Now you have me thinking . . . .

I have had a 3 SA hub given to me but can see the benefits of a Jackshaft transmission.

I usually play with motorcycles

 

[Sidewinder Jerry]

Was going to run it in the rear wheel. . . . .

Now you have me thinking . . . .

I have had a 3 SA hub given to me but can see the benefits of a Jackshaft transmission.

I usually play with motorcycles

So it's just a standard SA IGH and not a SA S3X? The S3X is a fixed gear IGH. it's 1) 5/8, 2) 3/4, 3)1/1. The cool thing is you can run both engine drive chains on the left side of the bike. I recommend: Engine 10t > [jackshaft 24t|24t] > rear wheel 36t. This is then like having a (1) 60t; (2) 48t; (3) 36t in the rear. You also don't need to be moving to change gears.

 

[cloakedvillain]

Was going to run it in the rear wheel. . . . .

Now you have me thinking . . . .

I have had a 3 SA hub given to me but can see the benefits of a Jackshaft transmission.

I usually play with motorcycles

If you do run it in a rear wheel use a low power engine. The engine I am using is supposedly 1.5 horse power at 5.5k rpm, but I am waiting on the shop to finish the wheels. A month ago I dropped the hubs off and they just cannot get parts in. Called in about the wheels 2 weeks ago and they said parts are on back order. Idk. Some e bike builders will run high torque mid drives with these hubs and they do well below 2 horsepower.

 

[Pezz]

If you do run it in a rear wheel use a low power engine. The engine I am using is supposedly 1.5 horse power at 5.5k rpm, but I am waiting on the shop to finish the wheels. A month ago I dropped the hubs off and they just cannot get parts in. Called in about the wheels 2 weeks ago and they said parts are on back order. Idk. Some e bike builders will run high torque mid drives with these hubs and they do well below 2 horsepower.

What size wheels are you running?

tire sizes?

I was thinking simpler the better….

 

[cloakedvillain]

What size wheels are you running?

tire sizes?

I was thinking simpler the better….

559 rims with 50mm semi slicks.(26 by 1.95 mtb/crusier) I'm using a sbp jack shaft and I am split between going straight into the hub with a 9 to 24 tooth combo or trying to get the perfect spindle length ashtabula to square taper adapter. If I go through the pedals I get an equivalent of a 55.4 tooth sprocket in direct drive or if I go straight into the hub I get an equivalent of a 45.3 tooth sprocket in direct drive.

Going straight in solves some big issues these jackshaft kits have with chain tension but then I lose pedals unless I fabricate a freewheel by pressing a custom 11 tooth sprocket for 410 chain with onto a one way bearing. Problem is I would need a 7/8" bore because the jackshaft is 5/8" and I cant find a one way clutch with a small outer diameter.

If I use a 20 tooth sprocket on the hub while using the freewheeling crankset I can increase the reduction to an equivalent of a 46.2 tooth sprocket in direct drive.

A lot to think about and play with but again I am waiting on the shop to get spokes in. I could call in but I doubt they got them in yet because the holiday weekend set everything back.

I am excited for the wheels because they going to be made with double walled aluminum rims, butted spokes and the drum brakes. I wanted bomb proof wheels.

 

[cloakedvillain]

After playing around I've decided to go straight into the hub and make a kick starter. This kick starter will be a left crank arm from a crankset bored out to 11/16" where the square taper is and bored out to 7/8" where the threading for the removal tool is. Then a one way bearing will be pressed in and this kickstarter will go on to the jackshaft. Just need to get this crank arm on a laythe and hurry up and wait on the longer jackshaft and one way bearings. I obviously flipped the 410 sprocket the right way around. It will aligned very well to the flanged sprocket on the new hub but there was a small amount of misalignment on the non flanged sprocket the old wheel uses.

If the kickstarter doesn't work very well I can always replace it with a custom pull start that goes on the jackshaft.

Not feeling the best about losing the pedals but I already have an idea on how to convert them into a foot brake for the rear wheel. It does save me some trouble with chain tension and cleans up controls. I did think about making a foot shifter but I decided it would be too much trouble and risk damage to the shifter itself.