70s schwinn speedster project.

[DieselTech]

Supposedly the 3 speeds are tougher but the truth is I just didn't want to cold set the frame. It had an an old aw 3 speed on it so I thought the new non rotary one wont be any trouble to get in. And it worked out very well. A problem I do have is that the forks are for older hubs rather than modern 100mm widths so it is a pita to get on. Needs a good convincing to open up but the forks are solid steel, not tubular, so it flexes but not without force.

As for the shifter in the standard/non rotary its beautifully simple. The little screw is for a quick release and the big is for adjustment. The gear indicator will look funny if its out of adjustment.

I got some pictures of me holding it out of position as an example. I had to fabricate a linkage because the anti rotation washers force the reaction arm out of the way.

Thanks I see its center chain pull shifted. Appreciate it.

 

[cloakedvillain]

Post pictures of how you're running your chains and the setup

Right now it doesn't have the engine in it. I wanted to make sure the brakes and shifting worked before that. Now that I know the bike rides good plain jane I feel comfortable mounting the engine.

I decided to simplify the setup and go straight into the hub. As for starting the engine I'm going to fabricate a kickstarter. I will be using the left crank arm of a square taper crankset bored to fit a one way bearing. I need a longer jackshaft as the included is the perfect length dor the unmodified kit and I am trying to add extra.

I can imagine needing a bigger reduction from the engine to the jackshaft if I can't get the engine to turn over with enough speed to start. Or I could fabricate a pull start for the 5/8" shaft.

It should look something like this picture, but without the chain to the pedals. I don't plan on letting the bottom bracket go unused though. I am going to fabricate a foot brake from a fubar one piece crankset (totally seized pedals, don't worry) and a brake lever.

 

[Sidewinder Jerry]

Right now it doesn't have the engine in it. I wanted to make sure the brakes and shifting worked before that. Now that I know the bike rides good plain jane I feel comfortable mounting the engine.

I decided to simplify the setup and go straight into the hub. As for starting the engine I'm going to fabricate a kickstarter. I will be using the left crank arm of a square taper crankset bored to fit a one way bearing. I need a longer jackshaft as the included is the perfect length dor the unmodified kit and I am trying to add extra.

I can imagine needing a bigger reduction from the engine to the jackshaft if I can't get the engine to turn over with enough speed to start. Or I could fabricate a pull start for the 5/8" shaft.

It should look something like this picture, but without the chain to the pedals. I don't plan on letting the bottom bracket go unused though. I am going to fabricate a foot brake from a fubar one piece crankset (totally seized pedals, don't worry) and a brake lever.

What I thought you were talking about doing. So are you saying:

Engine 10t > JS [24t/9t] > IGH 20t

????

 

[DieselTech]

What I thought you were talking about doing. So are you saying:

Engine 10t > JS [24t/9t] > IGH 20t

????

Yeah I think that's what he is doing & using the Sturmey Archer 3spd IGH in the wheel.

 

[Sidewinder Jerry]

Yeah I think that's what he is doing & using the Sturmey Archer 3spd IGH in the wheel.

Which would be the equivalent of having a 1st 71t; 2nd 53t; 3rd 40t sprockets in the rear.
He's going to need something like the 71t as a take off gear since he plans on having no pedal assist.

 

[cloakedvillain]

Which would be the equivalent of having a 1st 71t; 2nd 53t; 3rd 40t sprockets in the rear.
He's going to need something like the 71t as a take off gear since he plans on having no pedal assist.

As it currently is I have a 10 to 17 from the engine to the jackshaft then a 9 to 24 from the jackshaft to the engine. IIRC Fabian has successfully used a 10 to 21 from the engine to the jackshaft. This biggest traditional sprocket I can find for 410 is a 25 tooth from staton inc.

Going to a 21 would give me an equivalent of a 56 tooth sprocket in direct drive, and a 25 would give me an equivalent of a 66 tooth sprocket in direct drive.

That is assuming an equivalent of a 60.4 tooth in low gear and a little kick off wont be enough oomph to get rolling. I will need to see. I have all the parts I just need to put it together now.

This engine running a 44 tooth sprocket would bog down on bad hills and four stroke but it could still make it up the hill. Again, I will need to do ride it around to get a good idea.

 

[Sidewinder Jerry]

I'm going to assume you ment

Engine 10t > JS [17t | 9t] > IGH 24t

Which gives you the equivalent rear sprockets:

1) 60t
2) 45t
3) 34t

Top speed 44 mph; cruising speed 33 mph.

If you went with a 21 jackshaft sprocket this would be your equivalent rear sprockets:

Engine 10t > JS[21t | 9t] > IGH 24t

1) 75t
2) 56t
3) 42t

Top speed 36 mph; cruising speed 27 mph

A 25t JS sprocket would give you these equlivents rear sprockets.

Engine 10t > JS[25T | 9t] > IGH 24t

1) 89t
2) 67t
3) 50t

Top speed 30 mph; cruising speed 23 mph.

 

[GW's Motorized]

I'm going to assume you ment

Engine 10t > JS [17t | 9t] > IGH 24

Which gives you the equivalent rear sprockets:

1) 60t
2) 45t
3) 34t

If you went with a 21 jackshaft sprocket this would be your equivalent rear sprockets:

Engine 10t > JS[21t | 9t] > IGH 24t

1) 75t
2) 56t
3) 42t

A 25t JS sprocket would give you these equlivents rear sprockets.

1) 89t
2) 67t
3) 50t

There goes the math wizard again

 

[DieselTech]

There goes the math wizard again

Lol I got lost after 1st gear!!!

 

[cloakedvillain]

Changed the bars as I find north road (or cruiser) bars very uncomfortable on my wrists. Got the beginnings of a foot brake. Needs a lot of work.