MikeJ
Member
Hi Solitus -
I was thinking some more. Here is a thought that may be an improvement over the previous suggestion. I was thinking the wire may continue stretching over time. The tightness will have to be tested and adjusted frequently for a while.
Instead of the heavy wire (I am thinking of #9 wire; its diameter is about 1/8th of an inch in diameter; it is still hard to manipulate), I thought maybe a steel rod would be better.
Many hardware stores sell 1/4 inch diameter threaded rod. I am thinking of purchasing a piece (it is inexpensive) and cut it to length to wrap around the base of the cylinder jug and have the two arms extend to beyond the bottom of the downtube. (An anvil will be a big help. And if you can heat the rod with a torch to red-hot to orange-hot at the area where it is to be bent, that is recommended.) So the rod will be shaped like a square-ish letter "U". The muffler clamp comes with a stamped piece of steel. I am thinking to form the threaded rod to extend through the stamped steel piece. (Must verify this can be done before purchasing the threaded rod.) This idea would require some multiple bends in the threaded rod, but none of the bends between the cylinder and the downtube should be sharp. As before, tighten down the nuts onto the threaded rod just tight enough to keep the engine and downtube from shaking separately.
On the opposite side of the cylinder, a file or a grinder can cut down the sharp peaks of the rod so the peaks will not dig into the softer aluminum.
Another thought... Because this is experimental, I am going to place some rubber pieces, such as scraps from a cut-up inner tube, between the engine mount and the downtube. The intent is to prevent the engine mount and the downtube from banging together while the engine is running at higher speeds. There is a property of all solid stuctures called resonance that, if not avoided, can break the strongest of structures. The idea is to avoid resonance from developing when the engine is running. A physics or chemistry instructor or industrial arts instructor can better explain.
I am open to all ideas from anyone that does not involve JB Weld or any similar product. Though good stuff, that is of no value to me in my case. I am going to try something soon.
Mike
I was thinking some more. Here is a thought that may be an improvement over the previous suggestion. I was thinking the wire may continue stretching over time. The tightness will have to be tested and adjusted frequently for a while.
Instead of the heavy wire (I am thinking of #9 wire; its diameter is about 1/8th of an inch in diameter; it is still hard to manipulate), I thought maybe a steel rod would be better.
Many hardware stores sell 1/4 inch diameter threaded rod. I am thinking of purchasing a piece (it is inexpensive) and cut it to length to wrap around the base of the cylinder jug and have the two arms extend to beyond the bottom of the downtube. (An anvil will be a big help. And if you can heat the rod with a torch to red-hot to orange-hot at the area where it is to be bent, that is recommended.) So the rod will be shaped like a square-ish letter "U". The muffler clamp comes with a stamped piece of steel. I am thinking to form the threaded rod to extend through the stamped steel piece. (Must verify this can be done before purchasing the threaded rod.) This idea would require some multiple bends in the threaded rod, but none of the bends between the cylinder and the downtube should be sharp. As before, tighten down the nuts onto the threaded rod just tight enough to keep the engine and downtube from shaking separately.
On the opposite side of the cylinder, a file or a grinder can cut down the sharp peaks of the rod so the peaks will not dig into the softer aluminum.
Another thought... Because this is experimental, I am going to place some rubber pieces, such as scraps from a cut-up inner tube, between the engine mount and the downtube. The intent is to prevent the engine mount and the downtube from banging together while the engine is running at higher speeds. There is a property of all solid stuctures called resonance that, if not avoided, can break the strongest of structures. The idea is to avoid resonance from developing when the engine is running. A physics or chemistry instructor or industrial arts instructor can better explain.
I am open to all ideas from anyone that does not involve JB Weld or any similar product. Though good stuff, that is of no value to me in my case. I am going to try something soon.
Mike
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