99 Whizzer Electrical Troubleshoot

Discussion in 'Whizzer Motorized Bicycles' started by Godzilla Bobber, Dec 18, 2008.

  1. My "new to me" Whizzer came with a dead battery, which I replaced.

    Just took it for a spin around the block and the lights dim when I accelerate and come back on while coasting or with the motor off.

    Hi beam, low beam, rear lail light, brake light, horn all operate. Turn signals (rear only) don't.

    Any suggestions on a likely culprit?


  2. Baverian

    Baverian Member

    First thing to check that the red wire is on the pos+ terminal and the black on the neg-
  3. No, terminals are correct.
  4. RdKryton

    RdKryton Active Member

    I'm just guessing here but did you check the fuse under the gas tank?

  5. Mountainman

    Mountainman Active Member

    do you have a voltmeter ?

    I sure like those THINGS -- and they don't cost much now days

    check voltage at battery -- then start engine -- check voltage again
    should be up by at least 2 or 3 volts
    just a guess there -- please don't shoot me Whizzer ones

    have fun as you ride that THING
  6. If the voltage is not up is it the regulator? Relay? Stator? Loose wire?

    How do I determine what needs fixing from there?
  7. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Hi Godzilla,
    Did you replace with exact battery? If you remove the battery [unhook the positive battery lead] do the lights operate normally? Often the screws that hold the stator to the case become loose, and should be installed using blue Loc-tite. Most likely the regulator module is defective, but it can also be the AC/DC module. The regulator "caps" the voltage via a zener diode, and the AC/DC module switches the lights from AC to DC or DC to AC depending on the motor started or not. The output from the AC/DC relay supplies volatge via the yellow wire to the lights. Not all Whizzers use the same color wire in the harness, I have been told it depends on which color is available at the time of assembly. Most likely the yellow/black wire going into the AC/DC module is also connected to the yellow wire from the stator, and the yellow/black wire connected to the regulator module, so you can see how either the AC/DC module and the regulator module could cause the problem you are having. Make sure the 7 amp fuse is good, and the new battery isn't causing a problem. If you can't locate the problem, several on this site have the wiring diagram to assist you in your quest. If you need any parts may I suggest you purchase them through a dealer, as many are members of this site.

    Have fun,
  8. Hello Godzilla, first get a vom, Harbor Freight even sells them for as little as 3 bucks on sale.

    Next measure battery voltage, this is a baseline. Then when you fire the engine you should be able to read the charging current.
    If NOT then primary wiring is suspect, if so continue to what does not work.

    Is the ground wire (black at battery box) clean and tight?

    Yes you can fire the engine and read voltage at battery terminals to see alternator trying to charge the battery, IF the battery is VERY low, the Whizzer will not always charge it, in this case use trickle charger or motorcycle charger or "battery conditioner" if you have one. A trickle-charger can be made using a little black wall transformer that might power a walkman or something. Typically, if headlamp comes on with the key battery is in the range of the bike's abiliy to charge it.

    If at anythime, you are not ready to externally charge the battery, unplug one headlight wire, and ride bike with headlight off to help charge battery.

    You may be able to read the red wire (engine running wire off batt) for AC, if so regualtor should be suspect, light bulbs like AC batteries do not. Here you should also read charging voltage.

    Do these things and report back with your findings and we can continue.

    It would be hopeless for us to go thru the entire wiring loom if you have a bad ground or dirty connections.

    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 20, 2008
  9. Thanks guys,

    Will do a little diagnosing this weekend.

    Actually in a way, I'm glad there is a problem or two at the start. Already have had to remove and replace the rear wheel, tighten the belts, and now hunting for an electrical glitch are serving me well in familiarizing myself with this beast.

    Although a ride across the desert on a glorious day like today would be a whole lot better.

    I did get a copy of the wiring diagram. Wish I had the rest of the manual. I don't know why Whizzer doesn't just put it online as a PDF.

    Thanks again!

  10. Couldn't even get it to start with the new battery after that first test run. Rear belt was also loose. Tightened the belt and took the battery out. Started right up. So I blew off the diagnostics and went for a good long ride.

    Man, this thing is freaking awesome. Took on some hills and was able to accelerate uphill. Cruised along nice in town at the suggested 20 mph. Really nice sound to this engine.

    I noticed that without the battery, the headlight and taillight were working well. Then all of a sudden, they weren't. A few minutes later, they were on again.

    I'll dig up a voltmeter and check some possibilities. Might not be till after Christmas. I'm sure I'll get back out on the road in the meantime.

  11. won't start at all

    Tried to fire it up yesterday, and it stalled out a minute later.

    Now the bike won't start at all.

    Battery is still off the bike. Plug looks good. Fuse OK

    At a loss for where to start without an operable motor.

  12. RdKryton

    RdKryton Active Member

    Mine did that once. I forgot to turn on the fuel valve. (silly me) If the valve is on then I believe the filter is plugged up. It definitely sounds like a fuel flow problem. Another thing to consider is old fuel. Good luck.

  13. Won't Run=No Fun!

    Hi, well, your bike has 2 fuel valves. I like the idea of first open both petcocks, and drain a little fuel thru the bottom hose on the carb, this proves fuel flow.

    Next I would pull the plug, key o, kill switch on,and cycle the engine on the stand, looking for spark.

    IF no spark, go to all grounds, and be sure that you have connection, and never forget that your taillight wire (if 2 pc harness) MUST be plugged in or you'll have no spark.

    I've never heard of ign. tab missing, BUT check yours at this time.

    If than no spark, may be time to pull flywheel, and see that Magneto is bolted down good.

    Hope this helps,

  14. Thanks Jim,

    Fuel flow is fine.

    Thanks Mike,

    Are there any existing threads with instructions for disassembling and reassembling the flywheel?

  15. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Hi Randy, Removing flywheel is easy, but never use an impact wrench! use a peice of wood to wedge between flywheel and lower part of motor crankcase [where serial number is located]. You can use the ignition trigger plate to aid in wedging the flywheel. The bolt is regular threads [not reversed], loosen the bolt, lodge a peice of wood against the front of the flywheel from the other side of the motor and tap with a hammer. The flwheel will easily "pop" loose, remove the flywheel bolt and remove flywheel. When installing the flywheel reverse the process. Always check the stator mounting plate and use Loc-tite on the bolts, as I have seen a few with loose bolts.

    If you are having problems with starting, try using a little starting fluid. If the motor runs longer then the problem is most likely in the carburetor [they are famous for stopping up]. Another trick you can try is to remove spark plug, insert a little gas down the spark plug hole, quickly screw in spark plug, and try to start.

    Happy New Year,
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2009
  16. Hi,

    I'm getting ready to remove the flywheel and I noticed that the wiring from the generator runs behind the clutch plate and the frame. It looks like a bad place for it to be. How should that wiring be routed?

    Also do I need to substantially loosen the front belt to get it off so I can remove the flywheel?

    Thanks in advance!

  17. Found at least one problem.

    The + and - wires were sheared almost in two from the generator. Looks like they were shorting out as well. Will definitely reroute those.

    Now I know how to remove the clutch. Yeah!

    Got the flywheel bolt loose. Tried some tentative hammer taps to loosen it to no avail. Any danger of bending or stripping something? There is a screw on the outer edge of the flywheel. Does that need removed first? Or do I just need to whack it a little harder. Hate to break something without first asking a question or two.

    Like they say at Make Magazine - "If you can't open it, you don't own it."

    Thank you all for all your help. One of these days I'll own this sucker!


    Attached Files:

  18. KilroyCD

    KilroyCD Active Member

    First, the bolt is right-hand thread, not left hand thread like the vintage Whizzers. You may be actually tightening the bolt. That screw on the outer edge is the trigger mechanism to trigger the spark. Don't remove it. The best way is to wedge a piece of wood between the flywheel and the frame to keep the flywheel from moving. Do not under any circumstances use an impact wrench.
  19. I got the bolt off, it was just the advice from Quenton to tap it from the other side of the bike to pop it off.
  20. OK, now I got it off. The stator is on solid.

    I'll fix the wires in the morning.