99 Whizzer with 4 miles, trying get started

Discussion in 'Whizzer Motorized Bicycles' started by kayaker58, Oct 30, 2012.

  1. kayaker58

    kayaker58 Member

    Been visiting a little with Quenton, Don't want to Bother Him as know He has His Hands Full:)

    Can anyone help Me as I try to kick over the Whizzer from the 11:00 clock position, I pull the clutch in , hold open the Compression switch , even then , which should freewheel it, the engine turns over...got the shield off the belts and the front belt is loose as a goose but still the engine is turning over....

    Even with the Clutch pulled in I can't make the pedals cycle by hand, of course I can pedal it thru by foot but I would like to be able to start it from the side as I see on You tube being done from the 11:00 position and with the Clutch out also...Mine is way to tight for that..

    Pleasee let Me hear Your Thots and what Great Site:)

  2. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    In order for the belt to slip when using the pedals, two conditions must exist. First the guide plate must be in place or on earlier models the cover must be on and have the metal guides installed. And the second item, the clutch must be adjusted correctly.

    In order to make the clutch work better the original belt must be removed and replaced with the correct AX series or automotiv wedge belt. The original FHP belt [4l290] will "bunch" up going around small pulleys and resist flexing to allow correct slippage when dis-enguaged.

    The guide plate holds the belt in an oval pattern and is necessary.

    Try an AX27 or 15285 and re-adjust everything.

    Holding the compression release open while dis-enguaging the clutch will always allow the motor to turn as there isn't any compression to stop the motor from turning.

    Only use the compression when starting.

    Have fun,
  3. kayaker58

    kayaker58 Member

    Thanks Quenton, got the AX27 belt on, had to loose the engine and slide back a little to get belt to be free when pedaling...will adjust after I get the engine to start!!

    Going to set the lifters, got Your email on how too:) If I understand correctly, I turn the flywheel and the intake moves then as I keep turning the flywheel the exhaust moves up and down, then as the flywheel Tab comes just by the Sensor Both Lifters move together and this is the TDC position to adjust them, Correct?

    Sent Your Email a photo of the intake a Plug that goes all way back to the cylinder, is this Plug correct, or do i somehow remove it? If so how? It has such a small hole for the fuel just looks wrong:) My restrictor plate already has the enlarged hole in it...

    If I have the lifters in the correct positon , then they are wrong as couldnt even get a .005 into either of them!!

    Hopefully this is My problem for it Not Starting?

    Thanks again Quenton and We are Keeping Your Family in Our Prayers:)
  4. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Both lifters must close during the correct TDC. On one stroke both are completely closed [compression stroke], and on the other stroke they will be partly open [power stroke]. Best to watch both open and close then next stroke is compression stroke [when best to set lifter clearance].

    Sent info on removing restrictor.

    Does your Whizzer have the metal plate attached under the belt guard attached to the mounting posts?

    Should join Whizzer Newsletter as these modifications are covered in detail with pictures in back issues.

    The past issues of the newsletter cover hundreds of upgrade and modification on the new edition Whizzers in a section called Quenton's Corner.

    Have fun,
  5. kayaker58

    kayaker58 Member

    Thanks Quenton,

    Should I tap the resisitor all the way, hate to get any shaving into the cylinder? I sent email photo of the belt and pulleys for You to see about the metal plate, I don't see one? What does that mean? My plastic cover has a raise area on it to help the belt around the small pulley like You said before ...

    I will certainly join the Whizzer Newsletter if I can get it running if I can't then I will Buy the Honda 50 to mount into it:)

    How does a fello join the Newsletter?

  6. kayaker58

    kayaker58 Member

    Thanks Quenton, got the lifters adjusted and the restrictor rod removed and polished the intake inside, all because of Your Help:) I appreciate it so much:)

    Couldn't believe it started, I was schocked:)

    It will only do 28mph, if any hill , slope at all it kills the power! Thot the restrictor plug coming out and polishing the intake would help but....

    If I do the Cam advancing it, will I need a new gasket or can I use the silicon gasket they sell? Like to do that today but ain't no way to get a gasket ....

    Is there any way to increase the power besides the NE upgrade?

    I will adjust the belts some to see if I loose any power thru them....

    I see some of the WC1 motors doing 45mph, is that doable?

    Thanks again for Your Help and Prayin for Your Family:)
  7. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Advancing the camshaft will add more power.

    Milling the head will also add more power.

    The majority of WC-1 motors will travel at 45 MPH with the basic upgrades.

    Most likely if careful the side cover gasket will survive.

    Have fun,