bamabikeguy
Active Member
Wingo and I have been trading advise about his new bike, but he's using the 35 cc 4 stroke, I like the 26/2 cyc.
Gary,
I hope everything seems to be working on it. Here is a couple of GEBE specific tips:
(aren't you glad we don't have to go through the rigamorol our forum mates are dealing with on motor mounts and chains? Their throttles sound deadly sensitive.)
I noticed the green cap signifying "slime tube, that means no daily air leakage, If you ever have to work on the back wheel again, do that "double duct tape, tuffy liner" thing at least on the back tire, that is where the most hassle would be on the road with a flat. Cost you about 10-15 bucks, unless you cut the sidewalls off an old tire and do the "doublerubber" idea. My bike shop owner says flat repair with Tuffy liners is zilch. And DEFINITELY wrap layers of tape inside the wheel rim, over the spoke ends, the speeds GEBE bikes hit increase abasion through that flimsy rubber gasket thingy.
On the black plastic cover over the belt. Take a small square or two of duct tape and put it on the underside of the hole with the wingnut, this will help prevent a crack from happening, which when it happens, shifts the cover over a tad, where the tension arm slot interferes with the tension arm free movement.
What I mean is the plastic cover "shifts" and hits the threaded tension arm. I take a sharp knife, and whittle a slight "teardrop" into the bottom third of that plastic tension arm slot, just in case. It happened on both the Florida bike and in the Ozarks on the way to Denver with Rocinante, now I do that slight teardrop whittle on all the plastic covers.
I presume Dennis sent the heavier gauge metal strap to anchor the front of the motor mount to the frame, he came up with that AFTER the Denver trip, I hit a pothole in the Ozarks, was luckily carrying a spare. When I put that spare on, I took 2 long zip ties together, and added them as "reinforcement", around that horizontal fender post on my Sun Alum 7 and one of the open holes on the strap closest to the motor. The weak link in my long distance travels always was the hole attached to the bike, it might snap off there at the bolt, the zip ties prevent the engine from sliding backwards if that ever happens.
I hope you experiment with that peanut auxillery gas tank 35cc and 45cc folks talk about, I haven't used it yet, but that changes your cruise range from 30-40 miles to up in the 130-140 range. I think it comes from Whizzer. Our forum mates tanks would be nice to have, but they are gravity fed, and I think (?) not GEBE compatible. If you do, fill me in, that is what is holding me back from the two larger engines except in local spins. I use Rocinante in all overnight travel and the other bikes in 50-60 mile trips.
I am unfamiliar if that engine size has a "screen spark arrester", but if it does, it will clog in 500 miles or so, I rip them out of the 25 cc's, per GEBE suggestion.
The Florida trip proved that road buildup grime from "moist" ergo Marin County"foggy" streets, and a layer of grime will build up in the space between the tension arm bolt and the engine mount. Ever since I occasionally put a few drops of 3-in-1 oil in that gap, so the tension arm is never hindered by that grimyblack scum.
The Denver trip proved that an engine, properly broken in and having a well seated cylinder using 50:1 mix, can be "leaned up" to 60/70 to one, in otherwords, add your bottle of 2 cycle oil to 1.1 or 1.2 gallons of gas. My guess is somewhere after 750 miles. Leaning up the gas would slowdown any carbon buildup on the cylinder walls.
Hey, if you ask "what spare tools?" in the forum format, we won't have to repeat transfer of knowledge, and I'll probably learn something from the exchange. It is like that "ziptie your spokes" advice I harp on to newbies (photo attached), which decreases the need to check spoke tensions cause by higher speeds of travels.
I wonder where our GEBE compatriots are, but these tips above are GEBE specific, if you add a basket to carry everything else and design a backpack to carry the laptop, I think you will be quickly be co-pacetic, "become one with your bike" (from "Zen and the Art of Schwinn").
Gonna root for the Tigers I guess, and I probably saw fifty games in Oakland pre-1971, we moved from San Jose to Alabama when I was 14, so I never quite caught the Athletics/Raiders bug, plus only would attend Braves/Falcon games when Joe Montana or the Giants were in town. SF fans would semi-organizedly drift to the sunny seats as games progressed and ushers napped, then disrupt any attempt by lazy/meek Atlanta fans to ever get an extended "wave" going, revenge for that damn Tomahawk chop!
Happy trails,
Paul
Gary Wingert <Gary_Wingert@sonic.com> wrote:
Some pics of my motor-assist/pedal-assist GEBE Trek 6500 mountain bike
Gary,
I hope everything seems to be working on it. Here is a couple of GEBE specific tips:
(aren't you glad we don't have to go through the rigamorol our forum mates are dealing with on motor mounts and chains? Their throttles sound deadly sensitive.)
I noticed the green cap signifying "slime tube, that means no daily air leakage, If you ever have to work on the back wheel again, do that "double duct tape, tuffy liner" thing at least on the back tire, that is where the most hassle would be on the road with a flat. Cost you about 10-15 bucks, unless you cut the sidewalls off an old tire and do the "doublerubber" idea. My bike shop owner says flat repair with Tuffy liners is zilch. And DEFINITELY wrap layers of tape inside the wheel rim, over the spoke ends, the speeds GEBE bikes hit increase abasion through that flimsy rubber gasket thingy.
On the black plastic cover over the belt. Take a small square or two of duct tape and put it on the underside of the hole with the wingnut, this will help prevent a crack from happening, which when it happens, shifts the cover over a tad, where the tension arm slot interferes with the tension arm free movement.
What I mean is the plastic cover "shifts" and hits the threaded tension arm. I take a sharp knife, and whittle a slight "teardrop" into the bottom third of that plastic tension arm slot, just in case. It happened on both the Florida bike and in the Ozarks on the way to Denver with Rocinante, now I do that slight teardrop whittle on all the plastic covers.
I presume Dennis sent the heavier gauge metal strap to anchor the front of the motor mount to the frame, he came up with that AFTER the Denver trip, I hit a pothole in the Ozarks, was luckily carrying a spare. When I put that spare on, I took 2 long zip ties together, and added them as "reinforcement", around that horizontal fender post on my Sun Alum 7 and one of the open holes on the strap closest to the motor. The weak link in my long distance travels always was the hole attached to the bike, it might snap off there at the bolt, the zip ties prevent the engine from sliding backwards if that ever happens.
I hope you experiment with that peanut auxillery gas tank 35cc and 45cc folks talk about, I haven't used it yet, but that changes your cruise range from 30-40 miles to up in the 130-140 range. I think it comes from Whizzer. Our forum mates tanks would be nice to have, but they are gravity fed, and I think (?) not GEBE compatible. If you do, fill me in, that is what is holding me back from the two larger engines except in local spins. I use Rocinante in all overnight travel and the other bikes in 50-60 mile trips.
I am unfamiliar if that engine size has a "screen spark arrester", but if it does, it will clog in 500 miles or so, I rip them out of the 25 cc's, per GEBE suggestion.
The Florida trip proved that road buildup grime from "moist" ergo Marin County"foggy" streets, and a layer of grime will build up in the space between the tension arm bolt and the engine mount. Ever since I occasionally put a few drops of 3-in-1 oil in that gap, so the tension arm is never hindered by that grimyblack scum.
The Denver trip proved that an engine, properly broken in and having a well seated cylinder using 50:1 mix, can be "leaned up" to 60/70 to one, in otherwords, add your bottle of 2 cycle oil to 1.1 or 1.2 gallons of gas. My guess is somewhere after 750 miles. Leaning up the gas would slowdown any carbon buildup on the cylinder walls.
Hey, if you ask "what spare tools?" in the forum format, we won't have to repeat transfer of knowledge, and I'll probably learn something from the exchange. It is like that "ziptie your spokes" advice I harp on to newbies (photo attached), which decreases the need to check spoke tensions cause by higher speeds of travels.
I wonder where our GEBE compatriots are, but these tips above are GEBE specific, if you add a basket to carry everything else and design a backpack to carry the laptop, I think you will be quickly be co-pacetic, "become one with your bike" (from "Zen and the Art of Schwinn").
Gonna root for the Tigers I guess, and I probably saw fifty games in Oakland pre-1971, we moved from San Jose to Alabama when I was 14, so I never quite caught the Athletics/Raiders bug, plus only would attend Braves/Falcon games when Joe Montana or the Giants were in town. SF fans would semi-organizedly drift to the sunny seats as games progressed and ushers napped, then disrupt any attempt by lazy/meek Atlanta fans to ever get an extended "wave" going, revenge for that damn Tomahawk chop!
Happy trails,
Paul
Gary Wingert <Gary_Wingert@sonic.com> wrote:
Some pics of my motor-assist/pedal-assist GEBE Trek 6500 mountain bike