A better exhaust gasket

No, looks like a bad S/P crush washer seal, loose S/P, striped threads, or a small crack in the S/P hole.
Put in a new S/P and see if that helps, Inspect for any damage.
Remember S/P torque is snug tight (hand tight) then 1/4 or 1/2 a 1/8 turn.
 
Each S/P manufacture may have their own torque settings. As some with a tapered seal say 1/16 turn
But the basic rule of thumb is
First hand tight
10 mm S/P 1/4 turn
12mm S/P 3/8 turn
14mm S/P 1/2 turn
 
Each S/P manufacture may have their own torque settings. As some with a tapered seal say 1/16 turn
But the basic rule of thumb is
First hand tight
10 mm S/P 1/4 turn
12mm S/P 3/8 turn
14mm S/P 1/2 turn
I don't know about that, I wouldn't be able to get a 1/2 turn out of the ones on my GMC. If you turn a plug on one of these things too much you could strip it out. And, definitely crush the sealing ring with 1/4 turn.
 
I don't know about that, I wouldn't be able to get a 1/2 turn out of the ones on my GMC. If you turn a plug on one of these things too much you could strip it out. And, definitely crush the sealing ring with 1/4 turn.
Should probably look up the torque settings for the brand plug your using, If your unsure.
But I understand with these cheep China aluminum heads ya gotta be careful and not strip the threads out. I wouldn't go past 1/4 turn
Excuse me for not being clear.

Do ya know where the saying "rule of thumb" comes from?
In the old days it was legal to beat your wife with a stick no thicker than your thumb :ROFLMAO:
 
I don't know about that, I wouldn't be able to get a 1/2 turn out of the ones on my GMC. If you turn a plug on one of these things too much you could strip it out. And, definitely crush the sealing ring with 1/4 turn.
Ya know, I have changed S/P so much I just go by feel now a days. Your probably right Between 1/8 and 1/4 of a turn is all I'm probably tightening it. I do know once I put a S/P in and if I ever take it out. The next time I put it in it's only gonna be a 1/16 or 1/8 of a turn to get it tight, Cause the crush washer has already been crushed.
However I did notice if the crush washer is not seated and kinda hung up on the last of the S/P threads it takes more than a 1/2 a turn to get the S/P tight, That always freaks me out, like I think i just striped the threads. Then I check and it's fine. So I try to always remember to make sure the crush washer is seated correctly on the S/P before screwing it in
 
If the crush washer on my plug looks a little effed, I'll just get a new plug. That pretty much only happens when I buy a piece of used equipment.

The moral of the story is, Don't crank down on it.
 
I wish they would machine the spark plug holes flat to begin with. Watch for voids in the casting. I’ve seen some ugly ones.
 
I started making some exhaust gaskets today after reading your post. Ya got me motivated
I bought the Mr.Gasket Ultra seal exhaust gasket 10" x 10" sheet. Its graphite with a steel mesh center.
The 10" x 10" sheet cost $15 and will make 25 exhaust gaskets.

I thought ya might like to see how I make exhaust gaskets with the steel mesh center.
It takes a little planning but they will turn out nice.
I laid out the grid and started to drill some holes as I explained in Post #23
Pictures Part 1- Lay out and drilling holes / Tomorrow Part 2 - Finish drilling holes and cut out gaskets
What size round drill bit is that you use to cut center hole
 
What size round drill bit is that you use to cut center hole
I suggest not to use a step bit it won't cut the gasket material clean or fast like a hole saw will.
Measure the exhaust hole and use the nearest size hole saw. Like shown in post #26 & #28
I made gaskets for a Whizzer 4 stroke 138cc Flathead and drilled the hole to 7/8" which is = to 22mm
But I had to enlarge the exhaust gasket hole to 23.35mm using a 1" grinding stone that I tapered myself to fit the cyl exhaust hole perfect.
If the hole saw will only get the gasket close to the DIA ya need you can finish it off like I did. But I'm sure there are other ways to skin a KAT
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