A couple of general tips...


Local time
9:36 PM
Sep 22, 2011
...that I thought I'd share.

First, I don't know how I ever managed without a two-leg center kickstand. It's eliminated the need for me to borrow my friend's big, expensive Park Tools bicycle workstand. When in use, the kickstand holds the rear wheel about four inches off of the floor, allowing me to rotate the whole drivetrain and even remove the rear wheel. I just secure the front wheel to the floor with a bungee cord and two small dumbell weights. (You may wish to find your own method.)

If I need to work on the front wheel, I just rock the bike onto its back tire, secure it with the weights, and the front wheel is now about four inches above the floor.

Unlike with a fancy, waist-high workstand, I do have to crouch down to floor level to work on the bike. But that's not a big deal for me. Heck, with the dual kickstand you can even put the bike on a workbench or table for the same waist-high effect.

I also think that these center kick stands look great on a MB -- while in use or retracted. Look up "Sunlite Double Kickstand." I bought mine on Amazon.com for about $30.

Another tip to pass along: I've always thought that the rear drive sprockets on MBs (mine's a 56-tooth) kind of visually jump out at you. Not in a pleasant way! Kind of like a big, shiny pie tin. To make the sprocket more subtle looking, I cut a round piece of heavy black sheet plastic with an X-Acto knife and attached it to the sprocket with two-part spray adhesive (3M Super 77 or the like). You spray both the sprocket face and the round piece of plastic, and when each piece is dried to where it's just slightly tacky, you carefully mate the pieces. This is a very permanent bond. Just cut out the holes for your sprocket adapter bolts and center hole with your X-Acto, and you're done. Just make sure to put a flat washer under each sprocket adapter bolt because otherwise the plastic will wrinkle slightly when you tighten the bolt -- this way you're tightening onto the surface of the washer, not the plastic.

The heavy sheet plastic I used was cut from the cover of a three-ring binder. Find the kind of binder that has a good thick plastic covering over cardboard, and then find something round of the appropriate size to serve as your cutting template. I used a metal paint can that happened to be the ideal size. You can even get creative with binders in different colors and patterns; but for me, basic black was the right look.

I also gave my chain tensioner the same black-out treatment. It makes it look a bit less like part of an Erector Set!


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I agree on the centerstand. It makes everything easier.
Your sprocket looks good. I always thought that it was not very smart
to chrome plate a part that is in a part of the bike that stays so dirty.
My rear sprocket is aluminum and it is still hard to keep it looking clean.
Yeah the center stand is a good idea...but it's $30.00.
I just use a peice of scrap pipe and a set of car jackstands.
put the pipe under the frame in front of the rear wheel, raise the bike, and set the pipe on 2 jackstands (one on either side of the bike). I bent the peice of pipe in the middle to form sort of a cradle.
it works for me.
Yeah, that's a good idea with the jackstands and pipe. But some of us don't have jackstands. And even at Harbor freight a pair of jackstands cost $25 - $90. And if I need to work on my bike while on the road, the center stand is always with me!
well, yeah i guess you're right, not everyone has a set of jackstands.
And the fact of having the center stand while on the road is a bonus that i never even thought about.
My occ chopper has a centerstand, but my other bike doesn't.
I have the Sunlite double stand on my Huffy MT Bike, Kendra Kross tires, Works Perfect. My cruiser has the Kevlar Super Tires, and the stand is too short for the tall tires. Crow Cycles makes an adjustable double stand, not as nice, or light as the Sunlite, but it's a great fix for tall tire bikes.

Both these stands look like cornering hazards, but don't stick out past
pedals, so cornering is unaffected.